Hi it's Kristy,

Funny you should mention that. I tried growing my own seedlings last year but didn't know what I was doing so they didn't turn out very well. Ended up buying transplants from a local co-op which had already been hardened off so didn't have to worry about sun damage when setting them out. This year, have already tried a test planting of seedlings and they are doing much better so will plant my seeds this weekend which will make them about 6 weeks old when I transplant on 1 April. Was thinking about shadecloth to protect them for a week or two after putting them out and was on line yesterday checking prices...expensive, I thought, but might try it anyway.

Vance8b--thanks for the post. I'm planning on taking pictures of every phase of operations this year and will post as I go along.

cheers

Bing

Hi Bing, and all,

I have just completed 12 dual tomato plant containers with self-supporting 5 ft. cages. I used the Rubbermaid 31 gallon containers and pretty much followed "josho's" DIY instructions. Anchoring the tomato cages on the aeration bench was a bit of a challenge, but it all worked out now.

I use 1/8" cable guy-wires to support the tops of the cages to the Rubbermaid container, much like the way the "stays" of a sailboat hold the mast upright.

I also installed the EarthBox Company's Automated Watering System (AWS) and after some minor water level adjustments, it works perfectly in my 6" deep water reservoir. This way, I NEVER have to manually water the containers again, and the AWS keeps a constant 5.5" water depth all the time. I believe this "stability" of the water level will aid in the plant's productivity.

If I can figure out how to post pictures on this Forum, I would be happy to share the construction steps of them with you all.

Ray

p.s. Just bought another 26 Rubbermaid containers to make an additional 13 EarthTainers, as I will no longer use my raised bed.

Ray

Question on the AWS. I travel for weeks at a time and need an automated system but was just going to go with timers bc I wasn't sure how long the AWS water gauge was and frankly, didn't want to pay that much for the EB AWS. I made my EB's out of 36 gallon totes, which would obviously require a longer gauge. How long are they and do you think they would work in a 36 gallon tote?

A little over watering now and then actually helps to flush soluble salts out of the media resulting in better growth and less risk of toxicity.

kristy,

I would definitely not use timers, as the daily water requirements will vary during the season so much, and will vary from plant to plant. You NEVER want to let an Earthbox run dry, so with a timer based system for all the containers, you would waste a tremendous amount of water in the overflow from the containers that did not drink a lot. Kind of like the weakest link in a chain.

For $12.50 per container (think $6.25 per plant in my two plant container), this is absolutely the BEST garden investment I have made in a long time!!! The plant gets just the amount it cares to absorb, no runoff from what now becomes the "Emergency overflow" hole.

I mean just think about it, these ingenious devices will pay back the $12.50 per container in a very short time - - and now I can go on vacation for a week or more at a time, and never have to worry about the containers getting watered.

I am a happy camper now!!!

Ray

kristy,

Answer 3 simple questions and I can tell you if the AWS will work in your EB.

1). What is the distance from your overflow hole to the bottom (ground) of the EB?

2). What is the distance from your aeration "bench" to the bottom of the container (4", 6")?

3). What is the distance from your aeration "bench" to the top of the container (soil depth)?

The maximum length of the AWS tube can be no more than 15.5" in length. You of course, can make a depression in the soil around the sensor tube if the rest of the soil is higher than the tip of the tube, to make a dike, as the sensor needs direct access to air to sense change in pressure within the tube, so it cannot be buried below the surface of the soil. Make sense??

Ray

mewste,
OK, this a test. If it works there should be a picture of a support trellis that I hung a grow light from. It is a copy of Bing's trellis system that he used for his EarthBoxes. If it works I can tell you how I did it.

[IMG]http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj156/grb1_2008/100_0740.jpg[/IMG]

Oh well, Back to square one.

One more try. If this doesn't work then I need help on posting pictures as well.

[IMG]http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj156/grb1_2008/100_0740.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks Ray for all the info. I haven't yet built the boxes but my totes are 20 inches deep and my pond basket is about 6 inches high. Assuming I fill the tote within 3 inches of the top with dirt and drill the overflow hole 1/2 inch below the bench, that would give me:

1) about 5 inches from bottom of drainage hole to ground
2) 6 inches from top of bench to bottom
3) 11 inches from bench to top of soil (maximum 14 if filled to the top

I'm having a hard time envisioning the watering mechanism and how far down into the reservoir it goes.

You said you replaced the pvc tube with ABS pipe but I have yet to find a retailer around here that sells it in limited lengths I need. Where did you get yours? Someone mentioned bamboo but bamboo is not hollow and there are drill bits I've been able to find that are long enough to reach the core.

kristy,

Unless you cannot return the 36 gal Rubbermaids, in exchange for the 31 gal size (highly recommended), you can simply under-fill the 36 gal ones to a total depth of 15.5 " including the 6" water reservoir. I find the 31 gal size ideal for 2 tomato plants, along with the AWS restrictions.

I bought the "replacement" pipe at Home Depot @ $4.50 per 10 ft length, and cut it into 15.5" lengths.

I also got my 6" pond baskets at HD @ $2.18 each. They can be hard to find (in the Garden section near the pond pumps).

I can email you with detailed photo instructions for building the 31 gal ones, if you change out to that size. Got mine at Lowes for $10.00 each

Ray

Ray, I am having a very difficult time finding the ABS pipe. I have not seen it at home depot and Lowes doesn't carry it anywhere in TX per their website. What department did you find yours in? What does it look like? What do I ask for? ABS pipe? Plumbing pipe?

I looked the AWS on the earthbox website and I don't need 12, which is required to reduce the cost to the price you mentioned. I need 2, which is $50 without even considering shipping. That's at least $25/container that I'm not sure I want to spend. I may have to investigate other options.

Yes, please send instructions.

kristy,

The ABS pipe is the alternative to PVC pipe. The ABS is located in the same aisle as the white PVC in the Plumbing section - - but it is black in color. You need the 1.5" inside diameter pipe.

The individual AWS units are $15.00 without the tubing and pressure regulator (which you could pick up both at Home Depot for much less than the EB "kit" for $50.00). But even at $50.00 think of all the hassle it will save you in manually watering, peace of mind, etc.

Ray

Mewste,

I figured out how to post multiple pictures like you asked. Go to http://photobucket.com/. Get registered and then go to "my album". To upload your pictures from your PC, click on the "images from PC" tab. There you will see three browse buttons. Click on the first browse button and choose the location where you have your pictures stored. Highlight a picture and click on open. It should show up above the space provided to "add a title". To add additional pictures, keep doing the same thing with the other browse buttons. You can add more browse buttons by clicking the "add more" at the bottom. You should also choose the (640x480) size on the "max image size option" just below the "images from PC" tab.

Once you have all your pictures uploaded to photo bucket, youll see them below. Below each picture are four options: Email & IM, Direct Link, HTML Code and IMG Code.
Click on the HTML Code button and it will copy the code. Then right click and paste in your post on Garden Web and it should work. You should be able to see the picture.
Copy and paste each picture html code separately in your post and hit the preview button. If you dont see the pictures in the preview mode then DONT submit the post. Go back and try again. Youll get the hang of it. You just have to play around with it.

Hope this helps,

grb1

Ray,

Great notes--I have the 14 gallon rubbermaid containers which I only plant one tomato plant in. Tired of having to water them everyday in the summer, those tomatoes will use up to 4 gallons per plant which really surprised me! Anyway a couple of questions on the EB AWS:

1. I got the black ABS pipe from HD, however mine is 1 5/8" diameter. Will this work or does it have to be exactly 1.5" diameter?
2. I have 2 separate locations for my containers (12 total), quite a ways apart from each other. Should I order 2 each of the 6 unit AWS or should I order just 1 each of the 12 unit AWS and another Regulator? If #2 option, can I just go down to the hardware store and get another regulator?
3. I presume this system is hooked up to the outside water faucet. Do I have to unhook the system each time I want to use the water faucet for another use or can I install a "wye" connection to relay this problem?

4. I'd like to see your photos on your 31 gallon container system, please email me @ cabellero58@msn.com

Many thanks,

Alan

Alan,

Depending on the depth of your water reservoir, you will need to custom cut the 1.5" pipe (yes, the diameter you have will work fine). Mine too measures 1 and 5/8" as well. With my 6" wicking basket, I needed to cut my new ABS filler pipe to 15.25" to maintain a 1 inch air pocket. I wanted to maintain a .5 inch air pocket but getting the 'Tainer perfectly level is problematic.

{{gwi:23802}}

Here is a photo of the filler tube inserted into the Aeration Bench.

{{gwi:16352}}

Regarding the water distribution question, the pressure regulator can handle up to 30 AWS units, so I would simply order the 12 unit package at $160, rather than 2 of the 6 unit package at $99 ea.

Raybo

I'm glad this thread was revivived. I tried to find it recently and couldn't remember the name of it. Great info on container gardening here!

Now...more pics? Lots of growing pics?

Don

Here's my version of a homemade earthbox using one 18 gallon Sterlite container ($3.97 from Walmart)

To support the lid, this is perforated septic field drain pipe cut into 4 inch lengths. 10 feet at Lowe's (enough for 6 boxes) is $3.83. The factory perforated pipe should provide unrestricted flow of water in the reservoir and into the wicking chambers. Pipe is HDPE and considered 'good' plastic.

The lid upside down with the drain pipe attached with plastic ties. Holes were cut in the lid for two of the pipes to provide a wicking chamber. The holes were cut to fit the smaller diameter of the corrugated pipe. The larger diameter then fit under the lid for good support.

16 inch fill tube ($2.07) also from Lowe's found in the sink plumbing area. I don't remember the recycle code but it was considered safe and NOT PVC. Note bathtub stopper to keep the skeeters out. Also a wine cork impaled with a bamboo stick to float in the fill tube and show the water level.

Container ready to be filled and planted. Note the extra holes drilled in the lid for ventilation.

Part of last year's crop in late June. Two tomato plants and one banana pepper per container. Plants are supported with weaving between the steel poles on either side of containers. Poles measure over 10 feet to the top from the ground. For prospective, I'm 5' 11. The tops in the photo are at least a foot above my head. By mid-September plants exceeded the top weaves that had been tied with a stepladder. Containers were not self-watering but that will change this year. Containers 1 and 2 are 26 gallon. #3 is a 18 gallon Sterlite. All were filled with a soilless potting mix. I noticed no difference in the growth or production in all three. Huge crop of tomatoes starting riping in late June and finally ceased production with the first frost in mid-November.

Cost: First Box
18 Gallon Sterlite container from Walmart $3.97
10 foot section of septic drain pipe from Lowe's $3.83 -and this is enough to make 6 boxes)
3' x 50' black plastic mulch (Walmart) $3.63 - enough for many more
16 inch undersink drain pipe (Lowe's) $2.08
Assortment of nylon ties (Dollar Tree) $1.00
-enough for many boxes
Drain stopper (Walmart) $.77
Wine cork and bamboo stick (optional) You are on your own....
Total $15.28

Next Five boxes (each):
18 gallon container $3.97
Undersink drain pipe $2.08
Bathtub drain stopper $.77
Total each $6.82

Now if I can get a self-watering system similar to what emgarderner posted, I can take some vacation this year:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0602015726891.html

Great photos Dennis! I made the mistake of only using 5' and 6' conduit for stakes which subtracting for the height of the container didn't leave much left for tomato height. This year I'm replacing the potting mix, checking the support system underneath, and changing over to 8-10 conduit! Also I'm converting over to automatic watering system with the info from Raybo.

Good luck this year!

Alan

@dennis: thanks for the post. you solved most of my issues with self contained container in one post.

Ditto. I'm definitely making a few of these this year. This thread has been so informative.

when u plant tomatos in 18g containers what fertilizer do u use and where do u add it just on top or mixed into the soil.
also should the potting mix have fertilizer in it alreaddy or not

thats alot awsome tomatos!!!

Steve--if you go back through this thread and read carefully, all your questions are answered.

Raybo,
I went ahead and ordered the EB AWS for 12 units. I went out this morning and was doing some measuring on my containers, here's what I've got:
1. 18 gallon Rubbermaid, height is +/- 16"
2. ABS 1.5" dia pipe 20" tall
3. Pond basket - 5 1.4" height
4. Height to bottom of drain hole - 4 1/4"
5. Height from aeration bench to top of container - 10.75"

You mention that the height of the fill tube has to be less than 15.5"--why is this? Will these dimensions above work with the AWS valve units?

thanks,

Alan

Alan the reason why the fill tube is limited to less than 15.5 inches is because that is the length of the water sensor mechanism. If your fill tube is longer than that the sensor won't reach the water and will continuously be sensing low water and the water will run non-stop. The length of the sensor mechanism is why you have to be cognizant of the depth of the container, otherwise the fill tube will be 'underground' and covered unless you fill the area around the fill tube with less mix and leave a depression in that area around it.

Alan,

From the old saying my Daddy taught me many years ago: "Measure Twice - Cut Once", I think your new filler tube should be 14 1/2" long. I have a 6" wicking basket /aeration bench height with a 15 1/4" filler tube. This gives me a 1" air pocket between the high water level, and the underside of the aeration bench.

My 31 gallon Rubbermaid is also 16" tall, but with my higher wicking basket (6") I can have a longer filler tube than you will with the 5 1/4" basket. Again, when you get the AWS, hook one up and insert it into your EB (without potting mix), and move the tube up and down to see where the fill valve closes (I took one of the discarded 12" thin wall filler tubes and cut a slit, to be able to slide it over a second one; so I could slide the outer tube up and down like a trombone to find the right length for the new tube).

Raybo

Alan,

What "kristy" says....

I fill my 'Tainer 1/2" below the top, so the potting mix is about level with the top of my filler tube. The AWS sits up an inch above the filler tube holder, so it works for me.

{{gwi:23803}}

In your setup, if you intend to fill the 18 gallon container any higher than 14 1/2", you will need to make a small cofferdam around the filler tube to keep potting mix from interfering with the AWS valve. Tip: when filling the EB with potting mix, stick the unused AWS filler tube into the top of your permanent filler tube, to keep potting mix from going down the tube as you fill the container:

{{gwi:1360707}}

Then remove it to plug in the AWS unit.

Raybo

Raybo--

Please email me at cabellero58@msn.com as I have some further questions for you, a couple of emails should clear things up.

thanks,

Alan

I only have a 3/16 drill bit and used that for the aeration holes. Is that large enough for the excess water to drain?

As last year was my first year growing tomatoes, I decided to try a few different things to experiment. After reading this thread and seeing the results that came with it, I decided to take a few cuttings (first try at that too) of Brandywine Suddith's and put it in a homemade earthbox. I put it out either on the last week of July or first week of August, I can't remember exactly. By the end of the season, which ended in the beginning of November, I got about 30 tomatoes off those two plants. As a comparison, out of the 8 plants that I had in the ground (one of which was the parent plant), I only got 30 tomatoes the entire season. Needless to say, I will be upgrading to 7 or 8 of the DIY Earthboxes to compliment the ones I grow in the ground.

As a side note, when I planted the ones last year, I decided not to do the fertilizer strip since it was only to to be there a couple of months. I thought the time release fertilizer in the Miracle Grow Potting mix would be enough, but it wasn't. By the end of the season the leaves were turning light green and just started to look sickly. So, this year I will definately add the fertilizer strip.

jj

alan,

I will email you shortly.

kristy,

I have drilled 2 "overflow" holes at both ends of the container (on the handle sides), as keeping the EBs perfectly level is problematic. I used a 1/4" drill, but you can wiggle the 3/16" drill around a bit when you are drilling to enlarge the hole.

Actually, with the AWS in operation, I NEVER should have water running out of the hole, in fact, I should really call it an "emergency" overflow hole. As with the original EarthBox, the AWS sensor will shut off the water flow just before it gets to the height of the overflow hole. So, no more water running out and seeping into my deck flooring under the EarthBox. Another advantage of using the AWS system!!

Raybo

Thanks Raybo, but I'm actually asking about the aeration holes on the bench, not the overflow holes. I can indeed wiggle the drill bit to get a larger hole but would prefer not to do it on each of the 50+ holes on each bench.

I'm very impressed with the creative designs, especially the one from Dennisj550. I have several old Rubbermaid (tm) planters that were sold in the 90's, and I'm going to try to convert them to the covered self-contained style. I've always had problems with the potting mix getting waterlogged early in the season since they are open on top. They do have a "catch basin" under them, and depend on drawing water to the planting mix via a heavy felt-type wick. Has anyone else had any experience with planters these as a "closed" system?
Thanks.

Hey,

I thought I was the only one who wiggled the drill bit in the hole when I was too lazy to walk over and get the next size up.

:)

timmy,

I think more people do the "wiggle bit" than change out the drill bit size.

kristy,

You will have to drill an awful lot of holes with a 3/16" bit - - I would spend a dollar or two and get something larger for the aeration bench work.

Final planting out this weekend for my tomatoes. Hope weather cooperates this weekend - no hail like last Saturday!!

Raybo

After inspecting last year's homemade earthbox, there was some infiltration of the potting soil into the reservoir. The sterlite irregular bottom probably contributed to this. So I added fiberglas door screen which should minimize this.

dennisj,

You are probably also getting potting mix leaking around the perimeter of your aeration shelf. Use packing peanuts to keep most of the mix from leaking down into the water reservoir.

{{gwi:1309399}}

Raybo

Hey all,

Been it's been a while since I have visited but with the coming season my excitement is growing. Last year I started small with a basil plant, some hot peppers, and some celosia flowers. This year I am looking to expand out a little.

I had plans to build a two-shelf stand for my balcony and put some plant containers on the shelves, but now that I have found these self-watering containers I am rethinking everything. I was only going to plant some green onions and thumbelina carrots because the plant boxes I was going to use lacked any real depth. Now with these containers my veggie options are a little bigger.

Some questions:

Obviously tomatos and peppers work great - but what other veggies will grow in these containers? What about fruits?

Does the dirt/soil not get into the lower water reservoir though the holes in the "shelf"?

Thanks ahead of time for any answers/suggestions.

So glad I stumbled upon this info. I went out today and bought everything I needed and have started making my containers. One question. When growing tomato's in my garden I use cotton seed hulls around the base of the plant. Should I still do this or is it better to cover the top with plastic?

witthawg,

The purpose of using the black plastic mulch is twofold. First, it keeps the fertilizer strip from getting too wet from rain, etc. Second, the mulch impedes loss of moisture from the top surface of the potting mix, to conserve water. Personally, I would use the black mulch (cheap garbage bag cut down the center) then cover it over with your cotton seed hulls for a nicer look.

Raybo

Raybo,

Thanks for the suggestion. Could you explain the fertilizer strip. I have a recipe of organic fertilizers I use. When planting in the ground I just dig out a large hole place my fert. in with some mulch or compost and then plant my tomatoes.

Elizabeth

Elizabeth,

As I am using larger 31 gallon containers for 2 plants per container, I ran dual fertilizer strips furthest away from the centralized wicking basket. See below:

{{gwi:1309394}}

I also used a mechanical divider in the center to keep the 2 plant's root systems isolated from each other. This allows me to experiment with different fertilizers on each side, etc. I am trialing TomatoTone and Fox Farms to see which is more productive in my setup this year. Your organic mix should work just fine.

Raybo

Raybo, I hope you do keep us informed on the fertilizer test.

When I first built mine I looked at every nursery trying to find "fertilizer strips". Kinda like when I worked for a crop duster and he wanted me to find some "prop wash". Oh well, finally learned it was just trench (strip) dug in the dirt and filled with 2 cups regular ole fertilizer.

So glad I stumbled upon this info. I went out today and bought everything I needed and have started making my containers. One question. When growing tomato's in my garden I use cotton seed hulls around the base of the plant. Should I still do this or is it better to cover the top with plastic?

Yes, use the plastic.
If the fertilizer strip gets wet from the top, it will be wayyyyyyyy to much and burn your babies.

Someone asked about other Veggis
I'm trying Cuc's, Cantelope and Honeydew this year.

OK
I am going to be building my second box this afternoon.
My first box was the one with the single tote, using the center of the top as the soil elevator with the two PVC wicking chambers in two corners.

This one will be the model that uses two totes, with the bottom part inverted as the soil base(like Raybos), with the single large center whicking chamber.
The plaastic whicking thing I picked up from HD is rather large....square with 9" sides.

So now I will have three self watering container
one real earthbox, and my two home made versions.
We can see how they stack up.

Like Raybo, my two homemade versions are big 30 gallon suckers. They really dwarf the real Earthbox

bdobs,

BE SURE to use a small cut-out for the wicking area. I cut out my first 10 to match the 9x9" wicking basket, and then plants were drowning in the EarthTainers. I had to empty them all, and retrofit 2 sections of plastic to reduce the wicking orifice down to 40 sq. inches.

{{gwi:16352}}

Even now, my moisture meter is reading "Wet". I also used Miracle Grow Potting Mix with Moisture Control, which turned out to be too "hot" (aggressive wicking), so I wound up doing a 50/50% mix with a non-moisture control potting mix. What potting mix are you using?

Raybo

Ah crap, I only cut off about an inch on all sides of the whicking chamber. I am probably at at least a good 64sq inches of exsposed soil.
I am using regular Mir grow potting mix. I thought about the moisture control kind, but opted against it.
I transplanted the seedlings in on Saturday.
I'll go check out how wet the soil is when I get home

I do have my two Maters in the far corners of the box though

bdobs,

64 sq. inches is probably too large of an orifice, unless you have slow wicking potting mix. You might get lucky. Do you have a moisture meter to get a relative reading of "Moist" or "Wet"?

{{gwi:6253}}

Were you able to get the Paul Robeson at Yamagamis yesterday?

Raybo

Well, I just got home and checked out my babies.
Its only been about 48 hours since I planted in the new box, but the soil doeswnt seem any more saturated than that of the real "Earthbox" my pops bought me two Christmas's ago.
I'm going to moniter the soil for the next few days to see what happens.

On a side note Raybo
This weather is killin me, and hopefully not my babies.
60's in the day, and mid to low 40's at night.
Heck, last week it was 86

Brian

I live in Buffalo, NY. I have 4 wonderful self watering boxes I made and need to store them for winter. Due to major lack of space, I have to store them outside. Will they get ruined over winter? I tried to drain them best I could. I was thinking of a solid plastic sheet to cover the dirt and a plastic bag rubberbanded on the watering tube. Would this be sufficient or should I cover them with a tarp? Would this be an invitation for mice/moles to harbor under as well? I have a problem when it comes to the mere thought of a rodent! Welcoming all thoughts on this subject!