for the yellow leaves its could be be Beet leafhoppers,Psyllids or for the v may be Vascular Tomato Wilts

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato-growing-problems

just clip the yellow leaves and discard them as they are no use in the shade any way.

Mulch, water deeply, and not every day when you get home from work. If your plants look thirsty in the morning before work it's better to water them then. But they will look thirsty in the afternoon heat even if they don't need the water. My first Big White Pink Stripe took on a brown spot overnight so I'm going to spray blossom end rot control on the 3 fruiting plants and apply dolomite lime to the soil of then other 3 a little behind. (and try to not water them so much myself...) Not so sure about the leaf disease.

ning, I see you just joined GW today so welcome.

But you haven't indicated in your user name or your PAge where you live or your gardening zone so it's sometimes difficult to answer questions without that information.

Plants will have yellow leaves at the bottom of the plant. If there are no spots on them it's nothing to really worry about.

As for the BER ( blossom end rot), if you click on the FAQ link at the top of this page you'll find a nice article about it.

And no, the bottom yellow leaves and BER are not related.

The product Stop Rot will not prevent nor cure BER. Nor will adding lime.

The problem with BER is a physiological one and the problem is NOT one of CA++ getting into the plant, which it does, rather, it's a maldistribution of Ca++ within the plant that causes BER.

There are two exceptions to what I just said. One is where the soil has no Ca++ which is very rare and the second is where soils are very acidic which binds up the soil Ca++, and that too is quite rare.

The most important stresses that can lead to BER are uneven delivery of water, mulching helps, and too much N or growing in too rich soil.

Hope that helps.

Carolyn