I have the same lighting situation. It's very difficult because shade plants fry in 3 hours of afternoon sun, and sun plants loose their leaves with lack of sunlight. You might try Holly or Nandina (overused but stay alive!). I also have Hummingbird Bush, Bicolor Iris, and Turks Cap in that spot. Plumbago, although not a shrub, grows in those conditions but is a stingy bloomer.

Of the plants I have experience with I'd suggest Holly fern as well as Nandina and Turks cap, both of which are excellent suggestions. Holly fern is evergreen, lush and beautiful in full shade and will take a little sun.

There are also Cast iron plants and Japanese aralia to consider, both of which are evergreen.

Dwarf youpon holly takes sun or shade. A regular size multi-trunked Youpon holly might look nice leaning over the area, but would be tall enough to walk under. It might shade the part that gets afternoon sun so it would not be too harsh for the plants growing under it.

Evergreen in warm winters Shrimp plants will grow and bloom nicely in the shade with a little afternoon sun. I'd intersperse those plants with perennials like Chocolate plant and Fire spike. They both need a little extra water if in sun part of the day.

I'm sure you will get some other good suggestions.

Cleyera would work, I have Jade Tiara cultivar which stays a bit shorter and is more compact than the standard. Cleyera doesn't bloom but would make a very pretty companion to some of the bloomers mentioned above.
Abelia would probably do well too. Keep in mind that almost anything you plant, unless it's a groundcover, will be wider than the 2 feet, so will hang over the hardscape.

Giant lirope is shrub-like, takes shade and some sun, too It might look nice planted among whatever else you decide to use.

Good point about these things hanging over the two foot wide bed.

I have the same problem. I have tried Coleus and it fried in July. I spoke with a nuseryman and he suggested white lantana but I am not sure it will get enough sun. I am thinking now petunia's in the winter and spring but then, alas, we have the summer. I will keep watching for more ideas.........

This is one I love. Particularly this time of year when the berries are red and then as the foliage turns.

I have mine where it gets sun off and on, but definitely full hopt sun around 5pm in the hotest part of the summmer.

I was concerned about scale, but haven't had a bit of it. I did have another form of this plant that did have it, so I know it's around.

Here is a link that might be useful: strawberry bush

I'll second (or third) the Turk's Cap suggestion. I have a bed similar to yours and the Turk's Cap is doing beautifully. I planted them in the spring when they were about 6 inches tall, and now they're about three feet. Mine do have a mealy bug problem though.

Pentas would work very well there. They should bloom all year round unless you get a really cold snap, but even if they should freeze back, they will probably survive. Mine are each about 2' x 2'.

The non shrubs I have in these conditions are the lollipops, sweetpotato vines, Salvia black and blue with the red turk's cap behind them...lolli's and the straberry bush in front.

I love Sun coleus in these conditions...and pentas...and the trailing lantana but it takes a fullsummer to get them to bloom! Sun coleus are striking...just not as colorful as if they had more sun. You could do camelias...shrub, evergreen and color when no one else is blooming

c

Salvia regla might do well there.So might bamboo, Pavonia hastata (peruvian rock rose) The texas one might also do well there

I have had excellent results with growing Phillipine Violet (Barleria) in shade. It is a fall bloomer and although mine gets hit by the cold, it has proven root hardy. Both pink and red turks cap (drummondii, not mexicanus) will do well in those conditions, as well as firespike. Srawberry bush (euyonumus americanus) is beautiful and will also do well in your situation, but the 2 foot width is very challenging since thse plants will all go beyond that width, but can probably be pruned to confine them.