I think the first question I'd ask is where you are goring these tomatoes, in a geographic sense. Most tomato diseases are regionalized.

*****

Does it sound like a bacterial disease or did I put too much lime and bone meal in the soil at the begining of the season?

No way to know at this point if it's bacterial or fungal or non-infectious as in environmental. Any wilting? Any spots on the leaves? Do they just go from green to yellow and fall off?

And no way to know if you added too much lime, which is usually added in the preceding fall, or bone meal, without knowing what the pH was before and after the lime addition. If you added it to the planting hole that would not have been good and could well have caused problems.

(Is there any type of tomato out there that is resistant to these bacteria?

****

No way to answer unless and until a diagnosis is made.

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Is there any product out there that will sterilize the soil or will I have to wait 2-3 years before I can plant tomatos there again?

Again no way to answer until there s a diagnosis.

(Could this happen because I'm not growing the same type of Tomatoes? )

I'm not sure that I know what you mean by this comment.

Carolyn, who is leaning towards a non-infectious cause since you've grown tomatoes in the same spot for 5 years and haven't had this problem before which suggests that it's not a soilborne disease. As to a foliage disease possibiity, I did ask some questions above.

Carolyn poses a number of very important questions above that will help define your options. But I have to say that rather than any bacterial or viral infection, this sounds like a bad case of soil ph and nutrient imbalance to me. I base that on (1) the compounded symptoms on different varieties at different times over a prolonged period of time and (2)the shriveled roots coupled with dead leaves on green stems.

The combined use of MG garden soil, manure, lime, bone meal, and "miracle grow for the first 5 -6 weeks" could easily lead to an excessive build up of soil salts, a skewed soil pH, root burn, leaf death, and low production.

Just a guess based on the all the symptoms you list but if that is the case it won't make much difference which variety you try to grow until after the soil is repaired. The easiest way to do that is to till in massive amounts of organic matter/compost to neutralize the salts and bring the ph back into line.

Good luck.

Dave

Thanks digdirt and carolyn

My area code is 47712 at the southwest tip of Indiana. Do they sell ph testing kits? Is there anyway to send a picture of my plants to this website? Yes the leaves are wilting but there really are no spots on the leaves.

Thanks

Yes they do sell ph test kits however the accuracy of the inexpensive home test kits is...questionable...to put it politely. ;)

For just a few dollars more you can obtain a professionally done soil test via your local county extension office or from the nearest university AG department. Both IU and Purdue have very active departments and Purdue is the base for the Indiana extension services (see link below) and links directly to your county office.

As to posting pics here, yes, you can either click on the Photo Gallery link at the top of this page and upload your photo and then link to it or you can join photobucket.com (one of the many free photo album services on the net), download your pictures there to the album you set up, and then link to the pic in your post here using the Hope this helps. ;)

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Purdue University Extension Services