It most certainly is indicated on the front of the bag and in 2 languages.

Your season ends in November? I thought people in south Florida could grow through the winter (I don't include the freaky cold of last winter).

I would just go ahead and plant in what you have. If one of the fertilizers is time released it may not be too much all at once. You will know soon enough if it is too much by looking at the plant.

Oh duh, I just figured out what you can do. Buy some potting soil that does not have fertilizer and mix it with the one you over fertilized. That might dilute it somewhat.

Thanks taz. Now I feel like a moron. Checked my bags and sure enough...you're right. Guess I just wasn't looking. Dunno why I posted an unsubstantiated claim. Well, at least I won't make this mistake again.

amberroses: I thought so, too. I posted several months ago about how excited I was that I could grow tomatoes year-round in Miami, but everyone from the area flamed me (I just moved). According to temperature averages and such, it really should be feasible...guess I'll see. I'm not counting that freak cold, either.

I am in the Tampa Bay area and most normal winters I can usually pull a few tomatoes through the winter into spring. They don't ripen too well when it is cooler around January, but that should be less of a problem in Miami. Now, the summer is terrible. I avoid growing tomatoes in the summer. Maybe a few cherry tomatoes make it through but really they aren't very happy. According to the UF guide, south Florida plants tomatoes August thru March.

Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Planting Dates

Miami Fla, or Miami, Ohio. Here in Dade county, we are the winter vegetable capital of the country. Who told you our season ended in November?

I'd mix some more sand in, for drainage. You've got an awful lot of peat moss there, and peat moss has drainage issues.

Not really too concerned about the growing season...more concerned about my potting mix...does everyone agree with amberroses?

On a side note, I went back and checked my post. Turns out I got flamed for saying people should be able to grow in the summer in Miami (which I never actually claimed). I said "pretty much year round" and "maybe mid-summer should be avoided," but everyone thought I was claiming you could grow throughout summer for some reason (including you, amberroses!). This is all completely irrelevant anyhow. At this point, it's obvious (given the above) that I am not going to start them until later this month.

Again, though, this issue is not why I started this thread (that is why I started the other thread, "Miami Growing Season"). Can anyone else advise, or is the general silence just consent to amberroses' assertion?

Here is a link that might be useful: That other thread

Add some more peat moss and perlite but not the MG kind. Double your batch and that will bring down the fertilizer concentration. If it doesn't look good as far as drainage then add some orchid bark or pine bark fines.

Because you bought a potting mix I'll assume your working in containers. Sand is a bad idea here in Florida for containers, it compacts quickly and we're so humid that you'll have a sludge layer in the bottom in no time and the height of the PWT will grow, reducing the root zone...same with too much peat.... I guess I'm saying you have a lot more problems than just the fertilizer, although algae will definitely enjoy it at the bottom of your containers.

I agree with Amber, unless your plants get TYLCV you can actually cut the stems back to 12" and use the same plants for the spring season, they'll only bear about 65% of the first crop but sure beats starting a whole new bunch of maters. Fall to spring this works fairly well, spring to fall not at all, again, we're too hot and humid here over the summer.

According to the great internet authority wikipedia: "Flaming (also known as bashing) is hostile and insulting interaction between Internet users"

You really thought I was "flamming" you? If you took it that way I certainly didn't mean it that way. You said, "Maybe mid-summer should be avoided, but that's a big maybe given that it doesn't really exceed 85 degrees F" Since you asked the question, I only wanted to answer it. I don't see anything insulting in my post. Seriously that is not something I intentionally do.

But anyway good luck with your tomatoes. The start of Florida's nice weather is almost here.

Thanks for the good luck, amber! Tom, it was only a minor amount of sand. Just trying to get a fix on the amount of fertilizer and if it was too much. Soil drains very, very well and is incredibly fluffy. Thanks for the help, everyone! Apparently I didn't put too much fertilizer in the pots.

Be sure to check the fertilizer NPK rating on the bags for decimal points, specifically leading decimals, which are sometimes hard to see or read. I wouldn't be surprised if they have leading decimals, unless they are listing the total accumulated time release amount. NPK #s are based on volume and are a % number; I would doubt that the bag of M-G is 21% Nitrogen. And likewise that the perlite would not be 4% N either.

Also, when you mix components with different #s, you need to calculate by %. You don't just add up the #s. For example, if you mixed equal amounts of 10-10-10 with 20-20-20, you get 15-15-15 by volume, not 30-30-30.

if you mixed equal amounts of 10-10-10 with 20-20-20, you get 15-15-15 by volume, not 30-30-30

That depends on if you used the proper amount of water for both or just one. If both the 10-10-10 and 20-20-20 needs to be mixed with a gallon of water each but you only use one gallon for both then you will end up with 30-30-30.

Good (the drainage), keep us posted on your success.

You said you wanted to keep the cost down as much as possible. I just got done mixing 150 gallons of mix this weekend so I know what you mean. I keep the cost down by making Al's mix (70% pine bark fines), buying Nurticoat Total 180 triple-14 in the 50lb bag, Coarse perlite in the 4CF bags, and 3.8CF bales of compressed peat.

Tom