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CornuFe Albertine / CornuFe 90 Review

12 years ago

Since these are so rarely reviewed, I thought I'd collect my thoughts nine months into my ownership of the La Cornue CornuFe Albertine, now simply marketed in the US as the La Cornue CornuFe 90. This unit is derisively known here at GW as the "CornuFake". I did choose a bit of form over function, and I'm all-in-all quite pleased with the tradeoff. Among the vintage/European look ranges, it seems like it comes down to this one and the Lacanche. Since I'm in Northern California, I felt like the service and support network was stronger for La Cornue. (I've yet to test that out, fortunately). I also got my unit at a substantial discount, which made any decision easier.

I'm a moderate cook with limited exposure to higher end machinery. While I cook all types of food and bake from scratch, I don't do it multiple times a day. Thus, take everything I write in context. I thought that some review, with full disclosure, was better than none.

Build: While not the tank that the La Cornue is, this unit is relatively solidly build and compares favorably in build quality to other similar priced competitors, based on my limited showroom inspections. Some people earlier reported the doors would get hot during baking. Mine remains cool, even after roasting a turkey. This likely was an early issue that has been corrected. Similarly, the knobs are very stable and don't wobble. Some people complained that the knobs felt loose on floor models. Mine are stable and I like the feel of metal vs. plastic knobs. I think they will wear better as well. There are no nicks or chipping on any surface (including grates), nine months in. Like other similar ovens, there obviously is no digital readouts of temperature, other than the indicator light. The heating elements, of course, are below the oven floor, which is on the thin side (probably for heat conduction, I am guessing).

Cleaning: The sealed burners and top wipe down easily after use. The porcelain clad interior similarly wipes down quite easily -- and since this is a manual clean oven, it is important. The sides remove (if needed) and of course this is a hidden heating element, so it is a very smooth surface to wipe down. I've yet to heavily scour any surface, even after T-day. There literally is very little to clean on the top -- even removing the grates is sometimes unnecessary to do a quick wipedown with a scrub sponge.

Oven Size: The single oven is working for for me (I didn't have room for a second wall oven -- but I have a warming drawer that does get used). I was able to fit a 20lb turkey (pan fit 25lbs) and half a ham in the oven, side by side, for T-day. A 16" pizza fits in just fine, although I have to turn around the raised lip of the baking sheet. All of my baking sheets and pans fit just fine.

Burner Performance: I was concerned that the three 12K burners would not be enough, and that the 17.5K would be weak. And of course, these are sealed burners. The 17.5K has proven more than adequate for high heat searing and stir frying; the 12K are generally the workhorse burners. Although the main burner is used to boil large loads of pasta, the smaller burners work just fine for smaller servings. The low end control and performance is excellent. For example, when heating something simple like a quesadilla, the tortilla shows even heating on the lowest heat settings -- no hot spots. When repeating this test at the hottest temps, there is some evidence of hotter spots -- perhaps this is the curse of the sealed burners. (FWIW, I'm using All Clad d5 pans -- although I may try the copper core). Note that this was an extreme test using high heat and a delicate item: in regular usage there are no hotspots, even when doing things like crepes and omelettes. And even in higher heat mode, searing off something like a large tenderloin comes out perfectly. The simmer burner performance is great as long as your pan is the right size. I can set my Le Creuset on the burners for a ragu or ratatouille and let it simmer all afternoon. But a very small pan, like my All Clad saucier will get too hot. I thought about getting the French Plaque accessory to address this issue and provide more flexibility -- but at over $1K I don't think I'll try (yikes!).

Oven Performance: I've managed now to try all the modes. Heating, as you might expect, is even and appears to be consistent. Trays of cookies, sheet cakes, and puff pastry all show even heating. Preheating can take a while in the larger oven. There are several convection modes: I find the convection assisted mode to be a go-to mode for roasting, especially vegetables, where the browning and crisping are even and excellent. The dual fans do a great job in moving the air around evenly. The convection broiling does a good job, but is perhaps less powerful than I would like. The browning mode, however, does a great job in finishing dishes. The least useful mode is thaw and serve (basically a heatless convection). It takes 22 minutes to preheat to 350 degrees in either traditional or convection assisted mode.

There is one telescoping rack and a bunch of accessories (integral broiling rack, pastry rack, etc) that come with the oven. The regular wire racks do not make loud sounds when being moved on my unit and the telescoping tray is smooth.

Pictures are in my reveal (linked in my profile).

This post was edited by gooster on Sat, Feb 22, 14 at 13:20

Comments (62)

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Gooster: I didn't get a set but bought pieces that I knew that I wanted. I bought pieces each year at a great sale at my favorite kitchen store, the now defunct City Kitchens in Seattle while in grad school and on a budget.

    If I were you I'd get a piece and see how well you like it. For me, it was a huge step up from Calphalon but I don't know how much improvement you'll see over whatever you are using now, so I'd make sure it's worth the cost of the upgrade first. But that's just my two cents.

    At some point I may try tin-lined copper saute pan. I think when I was looking it seemed heavy, costly, a little high maintenance (or some combination I can't really recall), but the conductivity of it sounds dreamy.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    @ChristyMK -- You nailed it. The copper is very heavy as it's heavy gauge + has iron handles. No biggie until you get to a certain age and the hands don't do what they once did. I had some super big pieces I just can't manage any more. I had a lot as I bought it all during the '70s when it was affordable. Sold some at a house sale in '01 -- those went really fast.

    I regularly use the 10-inch sauteuse for all meat and poultry browning. It handles 3 pounds of beef stew meat in two batches. In this kitchen (reno'd pre affordable induction) I had to put in a radiant electric cooktop which offers the worst heat control possible. More can be done at once, of course, in a 12-14-inch saute but I think those require one of the jumbo burners to give the pan heat fully across the bottom.

    Copper compensates well but browning is ideal in the 10-inch on most gas burners as the flame spread will reach the edge of the pan.

    I use the 2-quart for reductions mainly. But for larger quantities I use the 3-1/2 quart Demeyere which is nearly as reliable.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Rococogirl: I think a 10-inch copper saute pan may be in order. I don't have a similar pan in Demeyere and it's something I've been thinking about getting - it sounds lovely.

    Gooster: If your most interested in heat responsiveness, I'd probably recommend starting out with the multiclad Demeyere pans that have multilayers on the bottom with the 2mm copper with a single material (stainless?) on the sides, rather than those that have the same construction throughout the pan, which I think has aluminum (mine like this are conical bottomed). They are both great but do work slightly differently. The single material pots take a little more time (by design) to respond to changes in heat.

    I'd also say I love the fact that the handles are welded on the exterior of the pan so the interior of them is completely smooth (makes for easier cleaning) and that the lip of the pan is fantastic for pouring. I make yogurt and there is very little spilling when pouring milk out of my 5.5qt into yogurt containers.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks Rococogurl/ChristyMcK: I've taken the plunge and ordered the two handled 3.2qt model from OKL.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Christy-- We must be neighbors. I shed a little tear each time I walk by the old City Kitchens location-- I used to wander through there at least onece a week on my lunch break, and I miss it intensely! I was too upset to even shop at their closing sale, plus the line was ridiculous...

    Off-topic, but can someone tell me how to pronounce "Demeyere"? I know it doesn't matter for online shopping, I just want to know!

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    lori_inthenw: Sounds like it. City Kitchens was hands down THE best kitchen store ever IMHO. Their coupon sale in August (with any item 40% off) was how spent my birthday money for a decade. They are so missed. Fortunately because of them I have a well-stocked kitchen and don't need much anymore. I just don't feel the same love for Sur la Table, even though they are local. I was shocked and saddened when they closed and still miss them too!

    I'm not sure if it's right but I say 'Duh-meyer'.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Yay, Gooster. Let us know how you like.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I've been to City Kitchens as well; it was a great store (I used to live up there before I saw the (sun)light)

    The link below has Mr. Demeyere (grandson) himself saying the company name.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Demeyere

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks for the link, Gooster! Sounds pretty much like "duh-myer" to me, too. Great, I can sound informed when I go to Sur le Table to admire it. Yeah, I miss those City Kitchen sales, too! I have everything I need except that our new kitchen will have induction and the stainless Cuisinart I bought one piece at a time from CK will not work on it. One of the kids is gonna get lucky in a few years...

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I tested a Lacanche today and used my 5.5 qt demeyere. I forgot my wok (duh!) so I was testing out high heat stirfrying on the demeyere and lost track of pan heating up while talking to the rep and got a burned hot spot from the smoking, very, very hot peanut oil left on the demeyere pan (it was on the 15k burner). (curse word.) Not surprisingly based on passed experience the demeyere with a little bar keepers friend is now good as new! I really can't believe how forgiving and responsive Demeyere cookware can be. I also realize I am perhaps not a cook to be trusted with 25k burners when I can't manage a 15k burner!

    Anyway, Gooster, let us know what you think. I really like that 3.5qt double-handled pot - hopefully you will too.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I'm so glad we had this conversation this week! I went down to Sur le Table to measure a few of the DeMeyere Atlantis pieces because we are specifying all our drawer heights and dividers. Their open stock is 30% off because they are only going to carry sets in the future.

    Not sure if this is for all stores, or just the one in PPlace Market because they have such limited storage space. But I walked out of there with 4 pieces, 2 big bags and a smile. And a lighter wallet, though not as light as it would have been! I would probably have been buying a piece a year for the next 4 years instead...

    PS Walked by the old City Kitchens locations this morning. It has taken them a long time to get a new tenant. It is being turned into a Doc Martens store!

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks for the heads up, lori_inthenw! My new pan is supposed to arrive soon, but I may have to stop by SLT to see if my local store(s) have a sale. I see they only carry their own version of Demeyere (Industry5) on the website, so perhaps they are phasing out of the Atlantis in the local stores.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Lori, Enjoy it! I'm sure you will. That's a GREAT sale. I find it so depression that CK is being replaced by a Doc Martens store. Oh well, things change.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Just wanted to followup here with thanks for the recommendation on the pan. I just got my Demeyere today and gave it a short, limited trial run. Water came to a boil super fast and shut off almost instantly when the heat was removed! Cooked on cheese practically wiped off clean. The size was a pretty good fit for the 17.5K burner, as well. I thank you but my bank account blames you for the future damage this may lead to.... I'm eyeing that 9.4" or 11" fry pan next.

    (Oh, and sadly, my local SLT didn't have a similar sale. They did have their Demeyere Industry5 line, but it seems like a step or two down in heft)

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I shopped around and got a couple of pieces at better prices than SLT. But your lovely range needs it. Such a pleasure to cook when the cookware and the range really play so nicely together. And it comes out of the dw spotless.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I bought my first piece from OKL; and now I just bought the 2.6 qt saute pan with a copper core. Two items have moved over to the "downstairs" section and are even better deals, plus it was free shipping.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    OKL?

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    RoccocoGirl: OneKingsLane. They had DeMeyere last week with "ok" to "very good" prices. The clearance section right now on the remaining pans is about 35 to 45% off the other online prices and below last week's prices.

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Got it. Thx. Braising some shortribs for pasta sauce in my 3.5 q just now. Usually I use copper for browning meat but this pan did a super job.

    This post was edited by rococogurl on Thu, Mar 6, 14 at 8:42

  • 12 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I though I would post a long term update: The igniter on the left rear burner went out. The local service affiliate replaced the part -- all covered under warranty but still a bit worrying. Otherwise, things are going well.

    And, our collection of Demeyere Atlantis continues to grow as the All-Clad d5 gets kicked to the curb (we curse how much harder to clean the AC pans are)

  • 10 years ago

    gooster, do you still like your CornuFe 90 range?

  • 10 years ago

    Yes, it has not had any other problems. Seals, finishes and everything are holding up. No nicks, dents or corrosion. The oven has been the surprise thus far -- really enjoy some of the modes, once we had the temperature and features dialed in. It is especially even, even when filled with cakes and cookies. I was a bit concerned at first with the sealed burner and the performance with the All Clad d5s but with the switch to Demeyere it's not been an issue. Power is also not an issue, either. However, my cookware has now expanded to ridiculous levels, and now includes thick stainless and tin lined copper in addition to the Demeyere and other top lines.

  • 9 years ago

    Hi Gooster,

    I know this thread is a bit old, but I am debating between La Cornue CornuFe 90 vs. Lacanche. But I think I will end up getting the CornuFe as I am located in N. Cali and have the same concern as you did re: support.

    That being said, hopefully you are still enjoying your CornuFe :)

    Do you know if William Sonoma is the only option to buy the CornuFe in N. Cali?

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi jsn78:

    There are plenty of dealers of La Cornue and CornuFe products, I believe.

    http://www.lacornueusa.com/find-a-dealer

    Check the dealer locator. I know Ferguson, Friedman's, and Pacific Sales (Best Buy) all used to carry the line, of the local & national chains. But some smaller higher end dealers have them as well. Have you had trouble locating them?

    Oh, and I'm still enjoying the CornuFe. No problems other than one in the first year, and that was resolve quickly under warranty with their technician.

  • 9 years ago

    Thank you, Gooster!

    I went down to the William-Sonoma this weekend to take a look and boy....was I disappointed. They had the light blue (Provence?) on display and the brass part looked very old and rusty. The sales rep said it has been displayed for 10 years and maybe it is supposed to have that rustic look. If I go with CorneFe, I think will go with SS with SS finish.

    I will be going down to the University Electric next weekend. If all fails, I will just get Thermador. I currently own Bertazzoni and had no problem. But I would like to try something new!

  • 9 years ago

    @jsyn78. You are welcome. I think if you have something on display for 10 years and don't polish the brass, you may develop some tarnish. I would not give up on the painted finishes; they are quite beautiful and should hold up well. Any of you choices should work out well. Did you give up on Lacanche?

  • 9 years ago

    RE: Lacanche- I gave up. It was very hard to get a hold of the sales rep in LA and I am thinking if it's this hard to "buy", it will be tougher to service something.

    I can only fit 36" and I really wanted the black with copper finish. Hoping to see it in person!

  • 9 years ago

    You should just book an appointment with Purcell Murray in Brisbane - the US distributor for LC (and others). They have a showroom with tons of models and materials on display. You should call to verify if they have the copper trim on display, though.

    http://purcellmurray.com/showroom/  

  • 9 years ago

    Hi there, thank you for sharing your experience with the La Cornufe, Gooster! My husband and I are finalizing our kitchen design and ready to purchase in the next couple of days. We fell in love with the 43" and have designed the entire kitchen around the black with brass. But we suddenly have cold feet. We are worried if something goes wrong and we hate it or we sell and the Buyer doesn't like it, the 43" range opening will limit options. Concerned when we sell some day that the range being odd sized and strong characteristics might turn a buyer off. I'm also worried about the huge learning curve for me. My old house had a 48" duel fuel Dacor, then Monogram with griddle. Do you have any thoughts on this? Has the Convection Only on one side been difficult for you? I'm also in Northern California but a couple hours north of Brisbane so checking out the demo is a challenge during the work week.

  • 9 years ago

    I have the 36" single oven, so I can't comment on the utility of the second oven. Convection is one of the regular modes that I use, along with Convection Roast and Conventional Bake. We were concerned about non-standard sizes, which is why we stayed away from the 43" (and things like the LIebherr fridge). There are a few European lines with 43" sizes, like the sister AGA Legacy and the Lacanche.

  • 9 years ago

    Thank you for the quick reply Gooster! I know it doesn't have a timer but does it indicate when the desired temperature has been reached? Looking at the 43" because we really don't care for wall ovens. In our set up, we have a walkway going through the only place we could install a wall oven. Thank you for sharing your valuable input! La Cornue should send you something!

  • 9 years ago

    I decided to pull the trigger and ordered me a black with brass CornuFe! It was tough decision between brass vs. copper but ended up with brass as I do not own too many copper items.

    It will be delivered mid-June.

  • 9 years ago

    Congratulations, jsyn78! Did you go with the 43" or 36"? I love that color combo!!

  • 9 years ago

    @Halky5. There is an indicator light that will go out when the preheat temp is reached. You are welcome! Perhaps one day I'll get that country home and get one in Provencal Blue with Brass -- or win big and get a Grand Chateau :)

  • 9 years ago

    @Halky5 I got the 36". My kitchen can only accommodate 36" and I rarely need the 2nd oven.

  • 8 years ago

    Gooster, thank you for your thoughtful review. It is very helpful to hear from an actual user. One question I have is whether you would consider the range to be “noisy”or not?

  • 8 years ago

    It's not noisy at all. There is only a fan in convection mode, and I've heard far louder. My vent hood is far, far louder, in fact.

  • 8 years ago

    Hi Gooster, thank you for the detailed review and updates regarding your Cornuefe 90. We are considering purchasing one and its so helpful to read the review from a first hand owner and the continued updates over time regarding repairs (or lack thereof). Sounds like you have truly enjoyed cooking and baking with it!

  • 8 years ago

    Thank you for your review, so helpful! You said you got a big discount on yours, how did you get a discount? I am wanting the 43 white with copper trim!

  • 8 years ago

    It was like a floor model/order cancellation. And, it's still running fine.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Bonjour jsyn78 ! So sorry you had such trouble on the West Coast, as our Staff is usually extremely responsive and we aim for the highest of customer service as well as support after purchase. Sounds as though you found the perfect Range for your perfect kitchen though, and that is what matters. Very Happy Cooking to you !

    Blair & the Lacanche US Team

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago





    Reviving this old thread since there really aren't a lot of user reviews on cornufe. I’ve been using for about a month and I love mine. Range is powerful and simmer is great for the most part. Oven cooks well and the range in general is beautiful. One thing I wish I’d checked: the oven comes with one normal rack, one telescopic rack, and one rack that is only designed to fit a cornufe broil pan or cookie sheet. The cookie sheet hollow rack is annoying since a normal rack would be more useful ( you can always put a cookie sheet or broil pan on top of a normal rack). the telescoping rack is great EXCEPT it’s really difficult to move it from one level to another. I’ve been practicing and it still takes me 10 minutes. My Miele oven telescoping rack can be moved quite easily in about 10 seconds. Anyone else have one and learned the trick?

  • 7 years ago

    I too find that latch on the telescoping rack to be irritating, but I rarely change it. I only leave the two racks in -- the telescoping one on the bottom and then swap the sliding one up and down given the situation. the wire holder for the broiler and the flat tray rack stay in the drawer below. I suppose you could order another sliding rack?

  • 7 years ago

    That's probably a good strategy, re: permanently keeping telescoping rack on the bottom position. I'll see if that works for me and avoids the problem...

  • 6 years ago

    Just got my oven and the telescoping rack came installed on the top broiler position. I'd like to try it on the lower rack. How DO you move it? It's not really clear in the manual. It tells you how to remove the rack, but not how to move the entire telescoping mechanism to another level.

  • 6 years ago

    Sorry for the delay in responding... I hope you have it figured out. You need to push the rack all the way in and then lift up the levers on the front edge of the oven, on either side of the rack. When you extend and push down, the rack should disengage.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    most useful review and followup conversation on the cornuefe 90 i have found thank you so much. we have a 48 "wolf that is working well after 15 years and a thermador electric that is over 30 years old that has some issues and we are replacing it. we have looked at la cornue for many years and cannot make a decision about whether to replace an electric with a gas or buy the induction or replace with another wolf to match any thoughts? sometimes i think the wolf oven does not heat evenly or even accurately. my biscuits never seem to cook as well as in the thermador.

  • 5 years ago

    Yes, moving the telescoping rack turned out to be fairly easy once I located the levers. I've had the CornueFe now for about 5 months and I LOVE IT. It's fantastic. It really is all that.

  • 5 years ago

    @diane f I'm glad you found my review helpful. I still have the oven and it is working fine, six years in. I'm not certain I understand your question? Are you contemplating the CornuFe dual fuel versus the induction version? I understand the newer Wolf models do have stronger burners.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    @alchemy - Do you have a secret for repositioning the rack after it's removed? Your post inspired to my to try to move mine again, but I had the same issues. I can get it off pretty easily, but getting the telescoping rack repositioned on a new level was still a huge pain. It takes me forever. And I certainly would not attempt to do it when the oven is hot. It's a serious downside to the Cornufe - I can change the positioning of my telescoping racks in my Miele oven in seconds....

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