What kind of contract, who will design the house, what kind of documents will be used, what kind of cladding, what wind & earthquake zone, and what climate zone?

Thanks Renovator8, Fixed rate contract, general contractor, Hardie siding, upstate SC.
The fixed rate portion is per my husband. The contractor does cost+ or fixed. This is a large addition to our small cabin. He was going to price it out with 6" exterior walls for added stability and insulation. It's a single story addition to our current story and a half.

Houseofsticks... I'd love to see what your final design/layout was. (even if you just want to email it to me rather than post it and get comments again...)

I want to say I've seen a pretty comprehensive list drawn up by Mongoct or Bevangel. I thought I clipped it, but my clippings aren't working atm...

I'll look again after the gnome-message is gone.

ETS: sorry I didn't clip it. Darn.

ETA: I found this one though... it might help

Here is a link that might be useful: thread on protecting against fraud

This post was edited by kirkhall on Wed, May 29, 13 at 1:15

Does the contractor have a standard design feature and construction specification that you could post so we could comment?

Kirkhall, I thought I saw a list here before too but couldn't find it now. Thanks for the link! We are doing a final modification to the design to eliminate some sqftage and tighten. I'll post the next prelim when it comes back and I'll need comments (welcome them).
Renovator8, I will check but his contract is mostly with my specs and "to code" where I haven't made specific adjustments. We have done work with him in the past and his business is sharing one of our property lines so neighbors too. I'm not concerned about the "trust" part as much as I am in the bricks and mortar portion. Things like, site finished hardwoods being laid first, then cabinetry. Anything that I don't specify then they are left to "standard practices" whereas, I could specify and spend a few dollars more and get a better build.
Our decking will be 2x6's to match our porch decking, code would be the the thinner decking boards.
Our roof is metal. We picked out a heavier gauge metal than he had originally thought we "wanted".

Thanks for your time.

Offhand I can only think of a few things. Aluminum flashing should not be in contact with pressure treated wood nor should it be placed so water does not drain from it rapidly. Pulling the decking away from a ledger board and using Grace Vycor or Deck Protector to separate aluminum and PT wood or using a more durable flashing material is a must.

Under metal decking I would install a full coverage layer of Ice & Water Shield or the high temperature version if appropriate.

"To code" is a minimum standard that should not need to be mentioned in a contract other than as a general statement. Such a statement does not belong in a final specification. The contractor should describe the actual individual materials and systems and most should exceed the code minimum requirement. Flashing, waterproofing, moisture control and insulation are good examples of where codes are often inadequate and sometimes poorly understood by contractors.

I would be looking for a design-build contract where the contractor can be held responsible for that service, adequate documents, and quality control and assurance, but I understand that is not what this contractor is selling.

Thanks Renovator8,
Thanks for the advice. I am also concerned about materials. Is there a best grade of lumber to specify for the framing or a best width of OSB? Yes, the design-build would probably offer a superior contract, as well as convenience, but the prices for those in our area are much higher. I understand that means I have to do a lot of specifying to get the same build.

I don't know what kind of lumber is common in your area but Kiln-Dried No. 2 Spruce-Pine-Fir or Hem-fir is usually specified here.

I would use 5/8" roof sheathing for better nail withdrawal, 7/16" wall sheathing and Advantech floor sheathing. Huber has some interesting alternative roof and wall sheathings with special coatings.

Common nails for wall sheathing, ring shank for roof and floor, no staples. Are there special wind or earthquake considerations?

It might be easier to get his spec and review it.

Agree completely with Reno, the only thing I will add is I believe Douglas Fir is superior for framing material and at the very least try for Kiln Dried Doug Fir studs. In no way would I allow them to use OSB for my roof sheathing (plywood only), maybe sidewall and even then I am not 100% sold. And I prefer Hot Dipped Galvanized Framing nails if hand nailed and Electrogalvanized if they use a gun. Make certain as Reno states that any like metals are separated and stainless fasteners fro the decking are a few things that come to my mind at the moment.

Thank you both, exactly what I was hoping for!