help please with ventilation

July 31, 2008

i am ordering a 48" captital range w/ six burners and a griddle. appliance salesman "A" says i can use a Best by Broan P8 (850 cpm blower) with a PIK45 insert.

i speak to appliance salesman "B" and he insists i need a P1952M70CMSS (1100 cfm blower) with a PK2238 power pack.

i know NOTHING about ventilation issues so please forgive my ignorance. the range will back an outside wall so sending the smoke outside will be pretty easy. thanks in advance for your help.

Comments (77)

  • clinresga

    No, you're doing fine. If you go with an internal blower, the only other things you'd need are the ductwork, which your HVAC guy would do. I think you might still need a backflow damper, which just prevents outside breezes from blowing backwards down your ductwork, Jeff can confirm.

    An external blower is definitely NOT needed to vent outside. Just remember, all you are doing is blowing air. There must be a fan somewhere that will do this. It can be at the "beginning" of the ductwork (inside your hood), in the "middle" (an inline fan in the attic), or at the "end" (on the roof where the duct exits the house).

    Most folks use the internal blower in the hood, as you have been discussing. It's a much simpler installation. The only advantage of the inline or external blower is reducing the noise of the fan motor by moving it somewhere outside the kitchen. Otherwise, an internal and external blower of the same cfm rating should perform roughly the same. So, unless you are obsessing about noise levels and are willing to deal with the extra complexity of mounting a blower located remotely, it's fine to stick with an internal blower. Then it should just be one order to MA and you're done. All the stuff I was talking about was if you were going to do a remotely mounted inline blower, so it's unneccessary for your configuration. Just trust Jeff to get it right!

  • malhgold

    Clinresga - thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate you coming back to check this thread.

  • Related Discussions

    Need help with ventilation...


    Comments (1)
    Hi Puating The answer will depend on your roof structure among other things. I personally prefer gable vents as they can be decorative and they *can* eliminate vent roof penetrations if the roof is small. Ridge vents are great and can also be a detail of sorts, but they need a clear air path from the eaves to the ridge in order to work, and the framing has to be configured for them. As for "ideal" insulation - I'm a fan of Icynene or other open or closed cell spray insulation, but its more expensive than batt or blown. Could you post a framing plan and some elevations? Do you have vaulted ceilings or flat ceilings? More information would be very helpful Steve
    ...See More

    Need help with kitchen ventilation


    Comments (4)
    The problem with the down draft fans is that it can pull your flame towards the fan, creating uneven heat. It use to be worse with the old Jenn Aire cooktop/fans. They say they are not as bad as they use to be. I installed a Broan, Elite Series recently, my customer is very happy with it. You do need to be careful with installation specification, make sure you have the correct allowances. A standard range is 24", the same depth as your standard cabinet. Some slide in's are not as deep but the box for the fan below can be 7" plus. If you are having custom cabinets made perhaps you can have them made a couple inches deeper. There are other options as well such as remote fans... Hopefully your cabinet company or contractor can sort out the specifications for you. Good luck!! Stefanie
    ...See More

    Kitchen Ventilation Help Needed...External Or Internal blower?!


    Comments (5)
    What she means is that high CFM fan can create negative pressure (create a vacuum), let's say when your fan is turned on in high mode, 1200 CFM fan can take all the air out of a kitchen let's say 20x20' x 8' high in about 2min and your kitchen will need make up air. If you have a good HVAC system that will help to provide makeup air but the system is not designed to replace that lost air, therefore in some cases when negative air pressure created, it can reverse the airflow in combustion vents, like chimney vent or your furnace vent, so instead of taking the smoke out of your fireplace, it will pull the smoke inside your home, etc. I hope it helps.
    ...See More

    Do we HAVE to have ventilation ??


    Comments (8)
    ehoffman4, I really would recommend to install a downdraft vent. I have a beach house cleaning business and one day I had to head out to new renters. I arrived around lunch time and Mrs. was preparing burgers. Within 2 minutes the WHOLE house was covered in smoky, greasy air. Even with the microwave ventilation (which puts the air back into the house...) didn't help a lot. Please feel free to look at following link: http://www.bosch-home.com/us/products/cooking-baking/ventilation/downdraft-hoods.html This would give you some ideas. In Europe there is no such thing as not having ventilation for cooking. After some time the whole house needs paint, it smells and it is just not hygienic, clean and fresh. Hope this will help. Nadine
    ...See More
  • breezy_2

    malhgold and kates,

    You both had a number of points and questions so I won't go back to see whose was whose so forgve me if I misspeak. And again, clinresga is directly on point and thorough with the advice given so far but I would add a few observations.

    Presitge also offers a wall mount light dimmer and fan control system. We ordered it but got the ones mounted in the liner. We did not get charged for the wall mount controls and kept the one sent. It has been just fine but I would agree the wall mount would have been a bit nicer.

    I have heard many on these forums argue that internal blowers are definitely more effective CFM for CFM than remote (whether in-line or roof/wall mount). That said, I would over size CFMs however necessary to go remote if possible. To piggyback on to one of clinresga's comments and add my experience too, in most cases, remote blower systems are SIGNIFICANTLY quieter than internal and that should not be taken lightly. Having had both, I can say that comfortly and with conviction. My current 2500 CFM roof mount system (no silencer) is much quieter on high than my previous 900 CFM internal system was on low and I am not exaggerating (and my previous system was a very good system so no complaints or fault as to manufacturer IMO). Having a conversation at normal levels in front of my current system on high is pretty effortless but conversations over the 900CFM internal blower on medium was a chore. I haven't responded top this post in a while so fogive me if I have repeated myself here but it has been such a difference for us.

    I said in most cases. I believe malhgold mentioned venting directly through to an outside wall. Often this means a very short if any duct run. I have generally read on GW that it takes a minimum of about 6 feet of duct to get any effective noise reduction going remote. And yes its true that the wall/roof mounted termination caps/housing are pretty large.

    I think kates mentioned having a custom cabinet built and mounted liner. I did too. As I understand it, most cabinet shops build these units so that the mounting surface for the liner is flush or even with the bottom of the cabinet unit itself. I actually had mine made so that the mounting surface was recessed about 4 inches into the cabinet making the whole cabinet enclosure unit effectively a part of the capture area. I say the norm is that these are normally built flush b/c I have heard descriptions here and I spent a lot time drawing this specification out and explaining this to my cabinet guy but when the cabinets came in, the mounting surface of the hood was flush with the bottom of the enclosure so I sent it back and he had to rework it. Think of it as a smoke lip (as that term is used in building fireplaces) for lack of better words. Seems simple and insignificant but the recess is a very effective method. I hope my description of the set up is understandable enough and I cannot put enough emphasis on its effectiveness from a performance and appearance perspective.

    I have been very happy with the Prestige product so far and their folks were great to work with as well but I did not know about MA when I was going through the process and, from clinrega's comments, they sound great too. I think clinresga and I both are avid fans of more is better for CFMs (within reason).

    HTH! and good luck!

  • jeffreyem

    Breezy 2 where did you buy your Prestige Hood?

  • clinresga

    Yeah, breezy2 and I have been pretty close in thought process. In fact, our hood enclosure (which is really a true alcove) will indeed also act like an even larger capture area (96'' wide over the 55'' range, as well as a front lip that will drop well below the bottom of the liner). And as breezy knows, I have serious "blower envy" with his 2500 cfm unit!

    breezy's thoughts about external blowers are right on target, as is his observation about very short duct runs. Definitely an issue to consider if going external.

    For mahlgold and kate: breezy and I clearly get a twisted sense of pleasure debating fine points of hood ventilation. If this comes across as arcane and confusing, then ignore it. You will not go wrong with a good hood liner: I agree with breezy that Prestige and Modern Aire are two vendors you can trust to produce a quality hood. So, if in doubt, let Jeff or Prestige guide you to the right choices, and don't worry if you choose an internal blower, probably 95% of hood owners do the same.

  • salmon_slayer

    great thread! It's helping me with my decisions. we need to decide in the next couple of weeks and would appreciate your assesment of the following set up for a 36" either a Wolf or Dacor Range cooktop: 42" hood from Metastone.com with a Abbaka liner and 1200 cfm remote blower. I was doing ok until I saw the note that short runs will be noisy. The run to the roof will ony be ~1-2 feet. (No attic) I also can mount to the back wall. I am very concerned with how quite the unit it.

  • breezy_2

    My experience with the internal blower was dictated by the application. It was a remodel and going external was cost prohibitive at a minimum. While I have strong opinions on remote as a sound convenience, let me temper my previous comments by saying that I was really happy overall with the internal blower system all things considered. Lets face it, it kicked any of its predecessors' @sses - sound and performance. Noise is a factor but don't fall into a deep depression if it doesn't work out for you.

    salmon, I think your choices and sizing are dead on for very successful and guaranteed results. Interesting that you can go roof mount with only 1-2 feet of attic clearance. Is that a flat roof or just so near the outside wall that you get litte clearance? If either, you could consider a roof chase system (same as a chimney chase) to get enough room to install a silencer in which less than 6 feet might work but 6 plus feet would be easy to get. At 6 feet or so I would definitely go the silencer route if an option I think. The Abakka flat roof mount termination cap would work well for that application since it resembles somewhat a fireplace chimney termination cap. Building such a chimney chase system would not be very cost prohibitive either. If it is near the edge of a pitch roof, you could also consider turning the duct work as it enters the attic and run it up the attic space to a higher level and to increase duct run, then through the roof. A couple of turns, especially if you can keep them to 45's, will not make a noticeable difeerence in performance and actually adds to sound proofing a bit. My application has two very slight turns (probably 22.5's) in a total of about a 20 foot run (12 inch ducting) and I have no audible motor noise that I notice.

    I concur with clinresga that more is better for ventilation to the extent an option and within reason. As said before, you can turn down what you have in excess but cannot turn up past what you have. As also mentioned here or elsewhere, I often only fnd the need to run my ventilation at half speed. I analogize that to having enough HP power to idle on the interstate at 80-90 MPH! A real pleasure!

    Having said this, let me also recognize those who make an excellent point on certain replacement air requirements. I would suggest you consult with your HVAC guy to work out those requirements if applicable. Those requirments can be as expensinve and complicated as more completely described here or in other threads or as simple and inexpensive as the passive system I put in.

    Finally, I bought my Prestige through Eurostoves. Treavor (Eurostoves) worked with the Prestige folks and were a tremendous resource in helping me design my final product.

  • salmon_slayer


    thanks for the information. the picture of the kitchen below is what we are going to remodel. The kitchen is on the left side of the house. You can see the skylight as a reference. We have a cathedral ceiling that "is" the roof. Just 2x12 rafters between the ceiling and the roof. I like the idea of the chase, but thats a new roof that I'm not excited about cutting open

  • malhgold

    breezy and clinresga - I just wanted to say THANK YOU for ALL your help. I am much more confident at this point going with an internal blower and realize that I don't really need to make this as complicated as I was. Now I just need to pick a hood style...nothing's ever easy!!

    Thanks again. And glad all the questions and answers are helping out others.

    Kateskourous - thanks for starting the thread. Keep us posted with what you find out.

  • clinresga

    like the house and the setting!

    Given the layout, I'd just go with an internal blower. I do think the short run presents problems and likely eliminates any noise advantage the external blower would normally have.

    With a different layout I think breezy's idea would be great. Remember though that the Fantech silencer (the only one I've seen) is huge--42'' high and 18'' in diameter so a chase would need to take that into account.

  • breezy_2


    I think if you want to go external, the chase idea will work based on your pics although maybe a bit visible through the sky light. A good carpenter and roofer can work around the new roof issue much easier than you think. The chase could easily be sized to accomodate the silencer size clinresga mentions. If that is too much "sugar for a dime", then internal is certainly a viable and much simpler option. Keep in mind you are going to have to cut someting the get the ducting to the outside. Talk to your subs and get their take on the difference b/t constructing a chase vs a simple vent to the outside.

    As another thought as well (to add to internal being a more viable option) since you will vent to the outside almost directly, you will have little or no duct run and create little if any negative or back pressure. This will reduce fan noise pretty measurably I am told. My situation was not a huge run but duct size barely adequate, the duct run was not long but still about 12 feet and had 2 - 90 degree turns in it. Many argue this created more negative pressure reducing CFM effectiveness and increasing the noise factor. Sorry for adding more complexity but to clinresga's point, internal might not be such a bad deal especially of your subs/carpenters are unsure about blending a chase system in effectively from a cost and appearance perspective.

    As to the delimma of choices, the vendors recommended by others and indicated by you guys as preferred choices are all very good and excellent resources to hammer out thespecific detils. Listen to them and let them guide you through to the end. Its in their best interests to make sure you are happy b/c that is what made them good companies and b/c you will talk about it here!

  • kateskouros

    i just got off the phone with jeff herman at modernaire... he spent a good twenty five minutes with me going over everything i ever wanted to know (and even didn't want to know) about ventilation. i'm waiting for an email now with install instructions as well as photos of all the various blowers available: internal, external ...and something else. from our discussion i will most likely purchase a PSL 52 liner (52 3/8" x 22 1/2") with a 1200 cfm internal blower with baffle filters. i was quoted a price of $1522. thanks clinsresga. jeff was a big help as were you.

  • clinresga

    Jeff is the man! Glad it was helpful information for you.

    It's turned out to be a nice thread for basic ventilation information thanks to breezy's additions and I'm sure I'll reference it in the future.

  • kaseki

    Duct losses are not the only losses on the hood side of a remote blower. The hood "filtering," hood and duct transitions, and blower transition also contribute. Also, if make-up air is not available from some source, the house pressure falls and the blower flow rate falls until the house leakage provides make-up air to balance the blower flow rate.

    In the case of baffled hoods, the purpose of the baffles is to redirect air so that the larger grease particles are thown into the baffles and eventually drain to a tray. The baffles cause a pressure loss that may be higher than that of the ducting. A few tenths of an inch of water is not unreasonable, depending on air flow, etc., etc. The baffles also generate noise, as do mesh filters where they are used instead. Still, the hiss noises of baffles, meshes, and transitions are usually less bothersome than the motor, drive, and blade tip turbulence noises of the blower, so remote blower mounting should be quieter. This does depend on duct length. A two-foot duct to an outside blower is not going to attenuate the blower noise.


  • joniir

    wow, just found this thread after having posted the following innocent/unaware question earlier today:
    "i've just begun looking for a hood to compliment my 36" bluestar 6 burner, purchased from eurostoves about 18 months ago. have been using an exhaust fan presently that vents directly outside the house through the wall. in all honesty, have been traveling for at least half that time, so it's not as bad as it seems. in any case, i'm hoping to find a good one (maybe like an independent) that i can just pop into the same hole, that vents out the back. aside from independent is there any other low cost options anyone knows of that will do a decent job? have briefly spoken with trevor at eurostove & independent or prestige were his thoughts. i live in the middle of nowhere, iowa & it's online or a trip to chicago for me."
    you all are a thorough bunch. thanks. and even though i'm a new questioner, i had run into the gw 2 years back when in the throes of range hunting & bought the bluestar after reading the comments. great site.

  • clinresga

    I think there was discussion previously as to whether most hoods require at least some length of ducting to work normally, but can't remember the conclusion. Someone else will likely post that answer.

    If what you are saying is that you vent out the back of the hood, straight out through that wall, so a total duct run of maybe under a foot, that's an interesting question. Many manufacturers sell hoods that vent horizontally, though most seem to be undercabinet, rather than freestanding hoods. An alternative would be a custom built hood, and as always, agree with Prestige and Independent as good options and would put in my usual plug for Modern-Aire, as I love our custom liner.

    I'd ask the hood manufacturer directly as to any issues they see with direct venting out the wall. If nothing else, I'm not sure how you put a backdraft damper into such an arrangement, and without one, in winter in Iowa, you'd have one heck of a cold breeze blowing in through your hood.

    If the wall where the duct exits outside is not highly visible, maybe you could consider an external blower?

  • joniir

    thanks, i spoke to a salesman for vent-a-hoods a few days ago & he feels i will need at least an 18" hood (if no cabinet) so that the duct work can be hidden. after the brief discussion with trevor (eurostoves) i'm leaning away from the vah's & so i guess i'm looking for a good (not too expensive) baffle style. this will possibly require that i reconsider the venting direction or reconfigure the position of my hole to accommodate the correct placement of a proper system. although i was hoping to avoid that. it's actually the perfect time to determine the outcome of this, as we are heat-gunning the entire house in anticipation of new paint & re-working all cedar siding that needs it, so the hole "could" be changed now- the issue is; the husband is growing weary of my new projects &/or extensions of present & came close to meltdown when i began making vent hole moving comments...

  • clinresga

    Bumping my favorite ventilation thread up.

    joniir: what did you end up doing?

  • joniir

    have suspended the search at present, as it is just too intense to deal with the house scraping (& husband's possible/probable annoyance) imagine i'll just have to deal with it later. in the mean time, am hoping to sort out a few wrinkles with bluestar (the range manufacturers) that i have posted on another thread entitled:
    "Bluestar warning on quality and customer service"
    it's all kind of slightly, weirdly beyond control.
    thanks for asking & i will return to this thread when i have sorted something/anything out...

  • clinresga

    Good luck with the BS, and we'd all love to bombard you with advice on ventilation when the time comes!

  • kaseki


    However, the hood mounting and ducting plan should occur early enough to not have to modify your ceiling twice. Ventilation design, unless truly stand-alone, can also affect cabinet design.


  • joniir

    my sentiments, exactly; but have to tread softly with the man. hopefully i'll get back to it (quietly) before the siding is entirely done. thanks. need to get some definite specs on general hole placement, probably thru the wall. toodles, jonii

  • kateskouros

    jeez... my thread popped back up. it's a good thing too, since i STILL am unsure of what to do. we just broke ground last week and i've been a little preoccupied. i've been out of town for the past couple of weeks but i'm going to print this thread out and go over it with a fine tooth comb with my very type A personality husband and the builder. i think i should leave the appliance guy out of it. at least that's vibe i'm getting. i want to make up my mind soon, since i just got word that many of our chosen appliances will be going up in price next month. ...thanks again for reminding me of yet another thing for my "to do" list. can't someone just pick something out for me, and i'll write you a check? ;D

  • vicnsb

    Wow this is really a lot of information! I just posted a silly simple
    ventilation question on the kitchen side and then came over here and found this!
    There was a lot to read quickly, but for my situation, which is:

    48 range
    8 foot ceiling
    flat roof

    does this info mean that an outside motor instead of internal would NOT help much with the noise factor? I too am purchasing a liner for a custom hood.

    Thanks so much for any help!

    kateskouros...what did you end up with?


  • clinresga

    Should help some no matter what. Is the roof directly above the kitchen or is there a second floor to traverse? Is there room for a silencer if you go with remote blower?

  • vicnsb

    Thanks clinresga, yes the roof is directly above the kitchen, no second
    floor. Not sure what you mean about a silencer, from what I can see now
    that everything is open, they will use the existing vent up to roof (using a
    turn in the ceiling for the duct). Our flat roof also has heating/air units on
    it. Is the silencer a unit that sits separate from the blower? Thanks.

  • clinresga

    Sorry, should have been clearer. I think the short run of duct you have will have advantages and disadvantages. From the standpoint of high efficiency ventilation it's great, especially if you are using large diameter (ideally 10'') ducting. The downside is that it does tend to reduce the advantages of a remote blower to some degree, as the motor is closer to the vent hood. In that setting, a silencer is really helpful, as it virtually eliminates any motor noise traveling back down your duct and into the kitchen. We have the Fantech LD10, which is the most popular one I know of, and it works great. However, it is huge: a cylindrical metal "can" about 18'' in diameter and 42'' high if I recall. You can see it on the Fantech website. I do not know if it is possible to install one outside on the roof though, so it might be worth a call to Fantech to find out.

    It is a hassle to use a remote blower, vs the easy option of an internal blower, but the incredibly quiet and effective operation of ours is truly one of my favorite things in our new kitchen, so don't write it off if you can make it work.

  • vicnsb

    Sounds like it would be a great help but I am afraid my poor flat roof
    has so many other things going on and disguised up there. With all of the air/heat ducts running up there I just don't know if anything else can fit.
    I will check into it...thanks again...I just love all of the knowledge in this place.

  • katieob

    I posted a dumb question about cfm's a little while ago, but just found this thread. Thanks all who contributed for putting ventilation into layman's terms for me. I feel better.

  • sayde

    Am bumping this because it has so much good information.

    Also have a question -- Modernaire uses seamed construction (unless you pay a lot more for seamless) Prestige and others, eg. Rangecraft I think use seamless construction. It looks better but is it structurally any stronger? Any reason to care about seamed versus seamless?

  • bjwright1

    Good info on this thread! I am getting a 36" wolf gas rangetop. I didn't think much
    about ventilation but plan to get an Independent 600CFM hood liner to put in a 40" arched wood hood that my cabinet guy will make. The only size liner that will fit is a 34". Does this seem adequate???

    If I were to get a 40" liner, it would mean having a 42" hood made which would leave me with 2 upper cabs on each size of the range being only 14" - currently they will be 15" which is already small.

    My appliance guy thinks the 34" should be fine with 600CFM - any thoughts?

  • deeageaux

    Any reason to care about seamed versus seamless?

    Seams get grease caught in them,tough to clean.

  • kaseki


    Hoods work by capture and containment. Capture requires the hood to overlap the expanding effluent that rises from the pans on the cook top. Disliking grease and odor, I would go with the wider hood, narrower cabinet solution.


  • aliris19

    Wow what a great thread. I will post my question here to bump the thread back into the lineup.

    Remote blowers: Has anyone any particular manufacturer to recommend? I presume issues would include efficiency and noise and cost -- others? Maybe roof profile?

    silencer: Are they *all* this large? Why?! Cars have itty bitty silencers on the bottomside, why would a range ventilation system need to be so much more giant? Just because attics exist? Or maybe it's necessary. Should I care about the prospect of installing that massive silencer? Just aesthetically it seems scary!

    the plan: I admit to still being a tad confused just about the components of all of this. Am I correct here please: If one opts not for the internal blower (which has two flavors, (1) mounted on the liner itself or (2) more remotely, inline in the attic), but instead for the roof-mounted external blower, one needs to acquire the following: (i) liner (==insert; same thing) (ii) hood that is a cosmetic thing to go on top of the liner (iii) ducting to carry the air from the hood outside... and optionally (iv) silencer. Is this right?

    I guess what confuses me is that it seems it's possible to get the hood with the liner inside already, or you can just get the hood itself ... and also it seems that if you get the liner annealed to the hood, it's also possible to get that liner with or without a blower..

    This really shouldn't have to be so difficult (physics aside).

    Also, I've seen it suggested that while tricky to get things to match up, it is likely cheaper to purchase all these parts separately - is that true? Seems to me to be a bit of a apples:oranges problem in determining that. I think that all the separate parts of a roof-mounted system + silencer+ductwork+liner+hood would have to be very $$$, but you'd wind up with a primo, silent, powerful system. I'm guessing an inline attic installation might be cheaper but a little noisier. Am I getting tradeoffs right here with respect to cost or am I failing to search prices low enough down the wholesale pole, so to speak? That is, I am wondering whether my efforts to compare costs are complicated by markups -- if I go directly to, say, ModernAire will I pay less or MSRP anyway? Fantech? These products are available via internet; it's hard to tell whether they are less or not? [and then there's the everpresent problem of how to pay for knowledgeable salesmen's, like Trevor's, existence...].

    Is it true, then, that á la carte is more expensive than an off-the-shelf entrée (hood+liner+blower all packaged in one)? Will I wind up paying dearly for the primo external-blower-cum-silencer or not? There are so many decisions to make along the way, that even just knowing this sooner than later would be helpful....

    So, so, so many complications....

  • kaseki

    The sectional area of a car muffler is usually significantly greater, relative to the area of the exhaust pipe, than a Fantech ventilation silencer is to the duct it is used with. The ratio is closer if the silencer is compared to a typical motorcycle muffler.

    Note that these serve different purposes. The ventilation muffler is intended to filter blade tip turbulence noise and duct turbulence noise in an otherwise continuous flow, while a car muffler is intended to reduce the pulsating pressure from the engine that would otherwise be much louder than a hood ventilation system.

    Exposed metal hoods normally have whatever guts are needed to work, so a liner would not be a separate component. Wood or other such materials used for decorative hoods require a metal liner.

    For the same volumetric flow rate, a roof fan and an in-line fan CAN have the same noise, or more or less depending on design choices made by the manufacturer and quality of execution.


  • Regina Savage

    I love this thread. Another question to lob in - if you're going to be venting directly outside and there is not a roof directly above (e.g. first floor of 3 story house), then is there really any advantage to a remote blower? It seems like it would be more difficult (and unsightly?) to install the blower on an exterior wall and if I'm reading this thread correctly given how close it is, you're still going to get quite a bit of noise unless you add the massive silencer (more unsightly to the exterior of the house)?

    I am looking at a 48" range (6 burners + grill) which will be placed on an exterior wall and vented directly outside (only a few feet up). So I *believe* I need a 54" inch hood (can I do with 24" depth or do I need 27") and an in-line blower in the hood itself with a cpm >=~1100 and accept that I'm going to have some noise?

  • aliris19

    I'm no expert here but I think that's right, historic. I'm not sure that your blower will be "in-line" per se or just attached to the liner. That terminology slips me up. But it sounds as if your line is so short that there's no room to locate a blower "in" it; the blower will be strapped on to your liner, I think.

    Anyway, main point is that I think you're right since the motor will be so close to where you're standing to cook, it will be loud. I don't think you even have the option to use the silencer again, because your line is so short.

  • BrightFutureFoods

    Great information but nothing quite hits on my issue so any help/advice would be appreciated.

    We are doing a home addition/remodel in our cold-climate Vermont home, including moving the kitchen and adding a 48" Capital Culinarian (6 burners & Grill). The kitchen design has the range located on an interior wall against a brick chimney with 3 separate flues. The "plan" is to vent the range into the flue that was previously used to vent a propane wood stove.

    I have concerns as to whether venting this way will work? It'll be a long run to the top of the chimney...maybe 20ft (up through 2nd floor and out roof). Have heard conflicting things but seems that it can pass code as long as that flue is dedicated to the hood vent and nothing else.
    My ceiling is 7 ft to open beam rafters and maybe another 6 inches up to the actual ceiling, not sure how that install will go given the differing heights.

    Any advice as to the above, and as to what type of ventilation system/blower/CFM etc. would be best and affordable would be appreciated.

    We are kind of stretching things with the high cost of the range (wife is skeptical but indulging my culinary inclinations) and don't want the venting to be the kicker that causes marital..hehem...discord!

    Thanks in advance for your sage advice!

  • davidro1

    you may be right, but take it to the following forums: HVAC, remodeling, and Building a Home. People there don't come to the Appliances forum. There will be questions about your flue, and you will gain more from the interaction.



  • BrightFutureFoods

    Thanks, David. I'll give that a try!

  • vinogirl


  • lolab

    Bump, bump, bump!!! What a great thread!

  • sandy808

    So what's the best out there these days.....baffle system like ModernAire or no baffles like Ventahood? I need help with this!

  • momx9

    What a great thread! I have read every post on vent/range hoods on GW and ya'll have helped me narrow a bunch of stuff down (and realize I can't get what I want for my price, lol).

    Yet, I still haven't figured it out. I'm using a 36" induction cooktop, peninsula installation w/9' ceilings. We have an existing vent to the roof (one story home with a generous walk-up attic). Big family of 11, several on special diets, so we cook a lot, including a lot of frying/searing.

    I'm thinking I need/want a 42" hood with at least 700 cfm, though would feel better with more. I would prefer baffle filters, an inline blower to help reduce noise (kitchen opens to family room), and I feel like I want the duct to be more than 6" which seems like a lot have.

    I like MA, but still feel like I can't quite afford it. I feel like I've looked at every possible website for vent hoods and still the "perfect" eludes me. Plus, I'm so dizzy from looking at this one and that one that I just want to quit.

    Someone want to tell me what to buy? lol

  • dashmag

    Great thread, lots of information, thank you to everybody who contributed !
    I'll bump it by adding my question.
    I have not too big kitchen in Gambrel Colonial, with 8 feet ceilings. Due to storage issues I have go with 30 inches Blue Star Range and 30 inches hood which has to be vented directly to exterior wall, I do a lot of stir fry dishes and I'm not a fun of lingering smells in the house. I was thinking about Kobe hood but I do not think they have horizontal vented option, in addition I live in MA so it will have to damper to prevent cold air coming back the house.
    I would appreciate any advise GW gurus can give me!! Thanks.

  • mtpam2

    I've been looking at Kobe also. Several of theirs vent out the back as well as the top.

  • kaseki

    Stir fry needs good flow rate so don't skimp when choosing a fan. A 30-inch system should probably have at least a 600 cfm fan that will, more or less, actually achieve 400 cfm in a real duct system with some make-up air pressure loss.

    Also, stir fry is probably better captured and contained with baffle hoods having significant volume under the baffles, vs. flat mesh hoods with no volume (but they look really nice).

    If you use mesh filters and stir fry, you will have to clean them very often. Baffles work when dirty.


  • dashmag

    mtpam2- I agree they have this kind hoods but not in 24 inches deep ones and that is depth I think I should get for BS range. I send e-mail to Kobe but no response yet.
    kaseki- I would prefer baffles over mesh but I'm confused about blower placement, inline, exterior or interior? How would it work with venting through 1-2 feet of duct? Would that create higher level of noise ? Would I need silencer?

Need help with an existing Houzz order? Call 1-800-368-4268