2x6 allows a greater insulation barrier and will provide better sound proofing. You also need to factor in that it will cost you more for the insulation - it's not just the cost of the wood and window frames. You should get back the 2000+ in energy savings - provided you insulate and seal out air infiltration correctly.

I think you need to look at your climate zone and the entire house HVAC approach (HVAC system type and efficiency, insultation, sealing, windows/doors) and develop an integrated solution. I would guess that 2x6 framing would be part of that solution - it was for me - but maybe for your climate zone you might be better off spending that money elsewhere.

I have 2x6 framing in my new house under construction. My previous house had 2x4 framing. I am much happier with the 2x6's. When doors close a little hard - the walls don't vibrate like they did with the 2x4's, I do expect lower energy bills and a quieter house.

This is a relatively common thread topic. Here's one of the more recent discussions on it. Short synopsis is "It depends" and "Perception is sometimes more important than reality."

Here is a link that might be useful: Previous 2x4 vs. 2x6 framing thread

You can obtain the nominally equivalent R Value with a 2'x4' wall by using exterior insulation in addition to in-wall insulation. But compared to in-wall insulation alone, the effective R Value will be higher as you're bridging the studs.

That said, I long ago moved to 2'x6' because of the twisting problems with long 2'x4's on the high-ceiling homes I build.
Too much warping and screw popping.

I only use conventional 2'x4's on some interior walls and I'm considering replacing those too with OSB studs.

On the other hand, Building Science Corp. is a proponent of advanced framing techniques--24" centres and even substituting foam insulating boards for OSB/exerior plywood.

I built one home with 1" XPS sheathing but was sure to provide bridging between all the studs on both floors. While this exceeds Code in my jurisdiction, the structural engineer was still doubtful.

As worthy stated, it's worth the extra dinero for the structural advantages 2x6 vs. 2x4.

Hmm. My choice is not so much structural as cosmetic and nuisance reduction. Even some 2'x6's end up having to be adjusted before boarding. But 2'x4's turn themselves into spirals and skis!

Because of the structural concerns, 2x4 studding on exterior walls is not allowed in our area for wind shear/flex as well as siesmic concerns.We are in the mojave desert, so nothing to do r-value wise, but it doesn't hurt to have the extra insulation.

As always its a regional issue where structural advantages might not play in,but 2x6 studding on exterior walls would be a no brainer on any build i would take on regardless of location.All our interior walls on our build are for the most part 2x6 with the exception of a 2x4 rake wall that i have concerns about and am considering furring it out despite space constraint.

Never!

My doy! I would never run any studding on 24"centers, not even the newer 19.2" centers that have been seen around here. 16" o.c. minimum.I was reluctant to space our lvl rafters at 24", but our roof framing was calc'd overkill for the snowload requirements in our area, so went with 24"

I need to lay off the coffee,jeez!

What, exactly, is your concern about 24" centers (assuming that everything is properly engineered for that spacing)?

(P.S., No coffee here!)

If 24" centers are engineered for your project in your area fine. Personally i feel you get a better nailing schedule with 16" centers as you have one more stud for nailing exterior sheathing, sidings, interior wallboard and besides the extra structural advantage, less chance for bowing inbetween the stud space.It's also an advantage when setting cabinetry and other fastened items concerning the walls.Before codes changed out here eliminating 2x4 exterior walls, you could have 24" centers if you used 2x6 studding. Now exterior wall studding is required to be 2x6 @ 16"o.c. That doesn't make it necessary in your neck of the woods, just code out here and something i feel that 2x6 @ 16"o.c. is a decent insurance as the cost would not be significant savings,imo to go 24" o.c.

"Personally i feel you get a better nailing schedule with 16" centers as you have one more stud for nailing exterior sheathing, sidings, interior wallboard and besides the extra structural advantage,

The "nailing schedule" that matters is around the perimeter, because that is where you get your shear transfer. The interior field is much less important. There is no substantial difference here between 16" and 24" centers.

"less chance for bowing inbetween the stud space."

There no "chance" about it. You design for acceptable deflection. It may well be that thicker sheathing is required for 24" stud spacing. But you can get whatever perfromance you need with either spacing.

"i feel that 2x6 @ 16"o.c. is a decent insurance

There is no "feeling" about it--it's engineering. You can design for whatever margin makes you "feel" good with either stud spacing.

"as the cost would not be significant savings,imo to go 24" o.c.

16" stud spacing requires 50% more studs than 24" spacing. That's a significant savings in my book.

24" stud spacing has 33% fewer thermal short-circuits across the insulation than 16" stud spacing. That's also a significant savings in my book.

Nailing your two outside studs,top and bottom plates without nailing the field studs is all that matters for shear transfer-disagree

16 " o.c. requires 50% more studs than 24"s-do the lay out.

The rest of your arguments are opinionated as well as mine. I will stick to 16" o.c's on wall studding and would never go with 24's. Just my opinion and preference.

Claimed engineering is generally based on the minimums. I prefer to go a little above board on framing, especially floor and roof, at a higher expense. To each their own.

I live in New England. Our home is 2 x 6 construction. And we're now building a garage that will also be framed with 2 x 6".

Why? the second floor of it is designed as studio space. IF we ever decide to convert it to living space it will be well insulated and comfy.

Where I live, 2 x 6 is the norm for a well designed/constructed living space.

Though the Ontario Building Code permits 24" centres, I don't recall ever seeing that spacing. And that's because brick and stone is the standard veneer here. And the Code limits the maximum horizontal spacing of ties to 15 3/4".

Insulation is not an issue. Using foam as sheathing or over other sheathing is up to 40% more effective than batts because of the vertual elimination of thermal shorts.

Of course, local requirements and Code issues take precedence in any particular case.

Thank you all for the wonderful advice! I will definitely go with the 2x6 framing. Worthy, when you speak, I always listen! And, sierraeast, I wouldn't dream of going with more than 16" centers here in hurricane country. I'll check on the other insulation suggestions as well. We use the AC at least 9 mos. out of the year.
Thanks to you all. I love this forum! Don't know how I built the last house without it!

There's one other advantage of 2x6 exterior walls: The house is quieter. If properly insulated, a 2x6 wall will do a better job of filtering out street and exterior noise.

Thanks. Quiet is always nice too!

sierraest gonna have to agree with you on this one. I would not build anything but a dog house with 2x4 walls. You can tell me until your blue in the face that 24"OC is just fine. But it looks and feels cheesy. And also says that you are to cheap to spend the extra jing for the 4 studs and extra clip of nails it would have taken for a 32' wall.

>>>>>24" stud spacing has 33% fewer thermal short-circuits across the insulation than 16" stud spacing. That's also a significant savings in my book. I am beginning to understand that "thermal short circuits" are a factor in a steel framed house, but would doubt that wood framing is that great of a conductor of heat or cold to over ride the benefits of two inches more of insulation... right?

That was my thought as well,but not knowing the details of thermal shorts, i didn't want to carry the arguments with s.p.Common sense dictates that wood would be way less a conductor,if at all.

Actually thermal bridging over the wood studs is reponsible for a good bit of heat loss/intrusion. For example a 2X6 stud wall with "R19" insulation only has an R value of 13.5 when the thermal bridging of the wall structure is taken into account (see http://www.ornl.gov whole wall calculator).

That's one reason foam sheathing over the exterior sheathing of the house is so effective. It cuts that bridge. Done properly it also adds to the structural strength of the building.

We've gone the foam sheathing route (as a part of our ADA) and our house is draft free, quiet and needs far less conditioning than non-sheathed home. With energy prices going up and up, it's well worth the extra cost.

Thanks for the info,chiroptera mama.Appearently we are doing it with radiant barrier to help with heat loss, but i am not educated in the thermal process.Where we currently live, most homes are stucco with the lath being lath wire over foamboard panels.Heat gain is not that much a concern where we are building,and with radiant requires an air space that would be provided with furring strips.In order to get a drainage plain, the bottom would be left open which is not allowed in our county.A furred out wall has to be treated same as a framed wall with fire stops, which means top and bottom plates with mid span blocking inbetween the strips,making no room for escape on moisrure concerns.

My father built a small house recently and it was sheathed in OSB board (?) ... the stuff made of wood chips... Is that a good thermal barrier and wouldn't that make for a stronger building than sheathed in foam?

The frame supposedly became much stronger after the sheathing.

Definitely stronger with OSB. My engineer specifies OSB or plywood under foam sheathing. And Building Science Corp. says it has concerns with the long-term stability of XPS as sheathing.

OSB is an inconsequential thermal barrier--less than R1 for even 3/4" thick.

By playing around with this calculator you can see the big difference in R values with different wall constructions methods.

If you are building a brick home would you still need 2x6 walls?

It depends on the climate and the cost of energy. Exterior cladding doesn't change anything unless continuous insulation is installed behind it.

Our house is 65 yrs old, we took every exterior wall out and added to the 2x4s to convert them to 2x6 we are in Ontario and felt the additional insulation would help. Also if you pull walls off a 65yr old home there really is no insulation at all in the walls and especially the corners. All new walls were built 2x6 where we could .
Since we have redone the house our bills have been cut almost in half.

Our builder plans to use 2x4 construction. The architectural designer planned the home for 2x6 construction. The home is a 2600 sq ft, one story, prairie style home on a slab foundation in Columbia MO. We are trying to educate ourselves and would appreciate any advice on this topic. Would also appreciate advice on best distance between studs. I’ve seen several numbers between 16” and 24”.
Ann and Carl

16" on center is typical for 2" x 4" stud walls. 24" on center is typical for 2" x 6" stud walls. Which is better, economically, depends on the climate zone and type of insulation.