I'm no help when it comes to electrical work, but you're referring to an induction cooktop, right? An induction oven would be somewhat oxymoronic.

Yes, a cooktop, not an oven.

Well, it depends.

first of all, I'm going to guess we're talking about 240v (not that it matters all that much, but hey).

The 2nd thing would be how old is that existing circuit? And can you look at it, ie remove the outlet cover? Is it 3-prong or 4?

You should confirm this on the Electical forum, but IIRC the old standard was to tie the ground to the neutral on these circuits back at the breaker box. Hence the 3rd prong is both ground and neutral. [the new standards keep these separate, hence new 240v outlets have 4 prongs.] So if you look in the outlet, you should see 3 wires coming in, two insulated and one bare. The bare one should be attached to the 3rd prong.

If so, then you're ok to go. The other two (probably black and white) are the 'hot' lines and the 3rd for all intents is ground.

NOTE: if you see a 4th wire in there that is a separate ground, STOP for now.

Weed, thanks for the input.
The circuit is definately old school. House was built in 1965 and the outlet is most certainly 3 pronged. So they must have tied the ground and neutral together, right? And that would be the 3rd (center) prong. I'll open up the socket and check for the bare wire. If it's there, I guess I'm good to go. If not, I'll call an electrician.

that picture of the DDP looks a bit suspicious. It looks to me like the ground is connected to 5, which would be a bad thing.

There have been discussions here in the past about hooking these things up. They seem strange, but they really aren't. They want both hots and a ground. But I think the old wiring doesn't necessarily provide this.

Also, the newer code requires a 4-wire hookup which makes electricians nervous when they see only 3 wires coming out of this unit. The new code keeps the neutral and ground separate at the appliance (I'm not sure about the service entrance box).

When I did my new dryer in my older house I came across the same thing. Luckily the dryer had instructions for both 3-wire and 4-wire hookups.

No, the ground is not connected at 5. That *is* the middle wire but it's only drawn that way to keep the wires from crossing which would make the diagram less readable.
The ground and neutral wires are tied together at the breaker box. So neutral and ground are on the same line, while the two 120 volt hot lines connect to L1 and L2 in the diagram. I am *assuming* that I will be able to attach a ground/neutral combined line to the ground terminal in the diagram.
But... I really don't know.

While grounds and neutrals go to the same place in a main panelboard, they go to different places in a subpanel; they may not be treated as being the same.

If the wire is bare or has green insulation, it is a ground. If it has white insulation, it is a neutral. They have different purposes, and must be treated differently. (And if you attempt to mix up the purposes, it is possible to create dangers that are potentially lethal.)

All that said, there is an exception in NEC section 250.140 for range and dryer circuits. For existing installations where there is only a neutral, but no ground, you can use the neutral as a ground.

I see a possible problem with the linked directions. In the drawing, it appears that the L2 and Ground wires are connected to different terminals in the same lug. Hopefully, the drawing is simply poor, but shows the wires connected to the correct places. If those terminals are indeed part of the same lug, STOP!!! The connection shown in that case is extremely dangerous, as it will put the full voltage of the L2 connection on all the exposed metal parts of the cooktop. If the drawing is indeed wrong, then contact service for the cooktop to get clarification about correct connections.

(Actually, thinking more about what the drawing seems to show, it would produce a dead short between L2 and ground, resulting (hopefully) in immediate tripping of the breaker. Which would also be a Bad Thing(tm).)

That's what I was saying.

But thanks for the Neutral/Ground thing. I beleive that is what he was looking for.

No... each numbered terminal is separate from all others. Terminals 1 and 2 for example are separate, but connected by a copper insert. Likewise 4 and 5. But the ground terminal is separate and not connected to any other terminal in any way. The "schematic" just below the drawing shows this clearly.
But I am still a bit leery about hooking this thing up. I'm confident about L1 and L2, but the ground/neutral connection is still somewhat mysterious. If this wire behind the socket is green or bare, then I presume I'm OK to go. Otherwise, I'll be forced to call an electri$ian.