I actually prefer the nu wool cellulose. A good insulation job consists of several things. First there needs to be an air infiltration package. This is caulking , sealing with expandable foam the cracks, joints, windows perimeters , sills etc. A good moisture barrier as well. Tyvek etc. properly installed. The Nu Wool ( and others like it) offer a great R -Rating but more inportantly they help stop that air infiltration. Its a reasonably dense pack, has mold, insect and fire retarders embedded in them. They are pretty good sound insulators as well. If you ever do have to get back into the walls( wiring, plumbing) you can and with expensive spray foams its difficult. The best example I have seen is a side by side example of a stud cavity with cellulose and fiberglass batt with a light, fan, thermostat and a ribbon on each cavity. when the light and fans are turned on you see the ribbon over the hole in the batt cavity move..the cellulose doesnt ( shows air movement...bad) Then after a few minutes you see temperature rise from the heat of the light start to rise on the batt...cellulose never changes. It is very graphic example of its superior performance.I am sure they have a simlar example you can see. The cost is a bit more but well worth it. Nu Wool will do a cost analysis for you that will show max $$ and will pay for extra costs over that I believe. I need to be careful of exact details but check it out. There are others out there blown in fiberglass etc Im not all that familiar with but you are being quoted a good product. It is sprayed in moist to help it to stick to walls and together and not settle like blown in from years ago. We just put it in two 3250-3500 sf homes I designed and helped GC for my girlfriend and and for her brother. So others may have others options as there are some but I dont think you will find any better. Good luck

I could not find the specific nu-wool R value for a 2x6. Is it R19?

I used Spider on 2x6 in the last construction. It is R-23 and is Formaldehyde (a carcinogen) free, after comparing actual cost (that includes framing, window trims, S.F. and insulation), future energy savings and what was healthier (mayor factor). Spider is also mold resistant. We had R-50 on the roof and used energy efficient trusses.

They say that nu-wall is "green". ItÂs made out of recycled newspapers. But is it actually better?
I know that one of the best home builders in my area uses nu-wool.

In the previous home we built, we used Icynene on 2x4. It was pretty good, we were happy with it. It was very expensive.

There are many factors to consider when selecting insulation. Try to place the money in the best one you can buy - and after that select the best heating and cooling system that you can afford.

I'd say, your home resale value increases when you invest smart on insulation/heating/cooling and then...kitchen, master bath and curb-appeal.

I read your other post about the 2x4 or 2x6 dilemma.
I suggest (I highly advise you) to use 2x6.
Do not listen to your builder on this one. Forget the granite countertops. You can change those later. You cannot go back to change the framing and insulation, and this is one of the things that people regrets later.

It helps to avoid trade names unless only one manufacturer makes a product.

NuWool is one brand of "dense-pack" spray-in cellulose insulation. It uses a mold inhibitor and fire retardant.

Spider is one brand of spray-in fiberglass insulation. It uses a mold inhibitor.

UltraTouch is, I believe the only brand of recycled natural cotton insulation batts. It is said to be chemical free.

They are all superior to fiberglass batts but are more expensive and prices for spray installation vary too much to make useful nationwide comparisons. I am reluctant to believe any of their R value claims.

Everything depends on what is commonly used in your area but I would price dense-pack cellulose in 2x4 studs if the budget is tight.

I've seen some vinyl siding that has insulation built into it. If you use any exterior insulation or insulation sheathing do a dew point calculation if it has a vapor retarder facing to be sure you can delete the interior vapor retarder likely to be required by your building code.

Siding underlayment should be #30 asphalt felt or Tyvek HomeWrap (or other non-woven, non-perforated plastic wrap like Typar or Weather Smart). Avoid woven perforated plastic wraps so often sold as store brands by lumberyards no matter what the cost savings or how many times your builder has used it.

I am a custom builder and I've avoided sprayed cellulose for one reason: if it's sprayed in too wet or gets wet, it can be very corrosive to metal.

If I'm not building to someone elses's specs, I prefer fg batts with a tightly sealed XPS sheathing and blown cellulose in the attic. I might try sprayed fg in the next project if it doesn't cost more. In the luxury market I build in, customers don't seem to know or care about hidden construction details. What counts is what they can see. The rest is mumbo jumbo. Building for yourself is another matter.

See link for all the pros and cons by a U Mass. expert.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cellulose Insulation--a Smart Choice

It is important to distinguish between the two types of cellulose insulation used in walls and rafters (not attic floors).

Damp Spray (wet) cellulose containing an adhesive binder is sprayed into open stud and rafter cavities and the excess is scraped off so drywall can be installed after it has dried.

Dense Pack Blown-in (dry) cellulose is blown-in behind a fabric sheet stapled over the studs or rafters and then rolled to make it level for immediate drywall installation.

The former introduces water into the wall system that can be a problem if it is not properly controlled and or allowed to dry quickly.

The latter provides a much denser result (3.5 +/- lbs/cu. ft) with no water.

Because installers have variations on these techniques it is important to write a clear specification or get a clear proposal.

Here is a link that might be useful: kinds of cellulose