My first thought is that it's fuel related, even though you changed the filters. Before it shuts down, does it sputter, like lack of fuel? It's not supposed to shut down without 15 seconds of flame failure. Does it? You'll be able to hear it malfunction if it runs low on oil.

Do you know the pump pressure setting? Have you checked that with a gauge?

The key to solving this problem is: what exactly is happening just before it goes off on safety.

yup, baymee is right, turn up the thermostat and camp out by the burner with the viewing port open for 15 minuites or so until the burner shuts down to see what's going on with the flame. Based on the information you gave us it could be any number of different things.

You're right, the flame sputters and dies out after about 5 minutes. The burner then goes into recycle (lite blinks slowly) and restarts in about 15 seconds. It will restart from recycle twice, and then go into a lockout. I have to press and hold the reset for about 45 seconds to restart the fire. However, once the boiler reaches normal operating temperature, the burner will run normally for about two or three hours before it again loses flame. I think I need a new pump???

If your burner is sputtering at 5 minutes when cold and will run for hours after it's warmed up.........doesn't make any sense to me. Is the oil line in a very cold place? or close to a very cold tank?

A new pump is the easy choice, but if there is dirt in your fuel line,causing a fuel starvation problem, a new pump won't help. Also, you need to know what pump pressure is required for your application. It should be on a data sticker somewhere. A new pump comes set at 100# psi and you might have to bump it up to 130#. You need tools to do that.

If you do have tools and since you are disconnecting the oil line, you might want to add a second filter, just in front of the burner.

Required pump pressure is 100 psi, and that is what it is set at. Since I have a cleancut pump (solenoid cutoff), I thought the solenoid might be faulty, causing cutoff if the burner has to run longer than 5 or 10 minutes. Starting cold, or near cold, causes the burner to run longer than than that. Each time I restart the burner (going thru 2 recycles and 1 lockout as many times as needed), and bring the boiler to operating temperature, everything runs normal for 3 to 6 hours. All my heating equipment is in my cellar, which is reasonably warm. Should I blow out the fuel line, and change the filters again???

Blowing out the fuel line won't remove all sludge, but I'm doubting it's the fuel line. The clean-cut pumps had some issues with bad coils, but not a big issue. The coil is available as a separate entity, but I don't have the part number handy.

It's a simple electric coil that pulls the piston up and holds it while 120V is applied. The primary control controls it by delaying its opening until the motor is up to full speed (15 secs.) Again, I'm thinking primary control. As long as the burner is functioning properly, there is no limit as to how long it runs on a call for heat.

If you applied 120V constant to the coil's wires to hold open the fuel valve on the pump and substituted an older 8184, 3 wire primary, you could test the burner and isolate the problem down to the fuel pump or the newer primary.

I'm about ready to give up and call a service tech. I went thru a restart sequence again as I described previously. When the boiler reached operating temperature, the burner shut off with no lite flashing on the control module. This time I sat there until the burner responded to a call for heat: it started normally, and ran for about 5 minutes. It then shut off and the recycle lite (2 second blinks) came on. It then ran thru the recycle sequence (14 blinks - about 20 seconds), and then started again. After reaching operating temperature (about 190 dg), it shut off normally - no lites.
It will run this way for a few hours, or until the operating temperature can not be attained thru 2 recycle sequences (a call for heat might occur during the recycle sequence). If that happens, the burner goes into lockout, and I have to clear it and go thru the recycle sequence again until the burner appears to operate normally. Does this sound like the control module or maybe the aquastat??? Since the burner always starts and runs every time I restart it, I'm convinced it is not the pump or the supply line.

Sputtering is not caused by an aquastat. It's fuel or electrically related. Let us know what you find out.

It's also possible that the check valve failed in your fuel pump. You should develop 100# of pressure and on shut off, the pressure will drop to 85# and hold for a good amount of time. If not, the check valve is no good.

Success at last. I used my compressor to blow out the fuel line. Just a couple of short blasts at 150 psi. It runs like a charm now. I also changed the tank filter and the pump filter, just in case. My thanks to all of you who participated in solving my problem.

I have an older Beckett AF burner. I have replace the oil line from the tank and the filter yet the burner nozzle (new) clogs up every other day. There is no strainer on this model. I have about 1/2 of a 275 gal tank. The only thing I have not tried is replacing the line from the filter to the burner. Other than that I'm out of ideas.

What part of the country are you in? Do you have forced air? How much is your electricity?

I bet its expensive heating with oil. You should consider upgrading to a heatpump with electricity as backup heat if you have forced air.

If you don't I guess your stuck with your oil burner.

In most of the northeast Oil is considerably less than electric resistance. (Additionally electricity rates are going to continue to climb, but that's another matter) A heatpump with oil backup might not be a bad idea depending on where he lives, although the cost to install a heat pump and possibly new furnace to accommodate the heat pump will likely buy a LOT of oil.

Your AF might have the Model J oil pump, which has a strainer underneath the round cover. When you have problems like this, you have to clean or replace all the lines.

You have to remove and clean the oil supply tube inside the burner, as well. When installing a new nozzle, never touch the filter or tip of the nozzle with your fingers. Nozzles are finger tightened and a tiny bit more.

I have a Beckett AFG oil burner which starts and runs with a flame "I watched" for about 20 seconds then stops but immediately starts again and again runs for 20 seconds. It repeats this until the water temp is reached or the house temp is met. I did my usual change the filter, clean the nozzle and screen. I did just have a new sleeve put in my chimney but I don't see this being the problem. When I bleed the line it seemed like good pressure not stopping but you know that's really no indication. Any Ideas to look at before calling a burner guy. We seem to have oil burner service problems which I'd like to avoid if I can do this myself.

When you say it starts again and again, how much time between restarts?

Nozzles are replaced, never cleaned. Even touching the tip with the oils on your skin can foul the nozzle.

You may have good flow up to the pump, but a restriction inside the pump. Did you clean the internal screen? Did you check for 100# of pressure at the bleeder?

I replaced the nozzle and screen and a new filter. I don't know how to check the pressure. When I say stops it's more like stumbling. I watched and the flame never goes out but the Damper jumps each time and I can clearly hear the stumble.
My thinking is down to either the line is restricted or the pump is not at 100%. Someone told me to clean the inside. Whats your thoughts on that.
If it would help I could make a video and post it on youtube and post the address here.

I'll have a video on Youtube later tonight. within 2 hours if anyone wants to see actual footage.

Here's the link. I posted it earlier but I don't see it. Here is the link if you can help me. Thanks

Here is a link that might be useful: Beckett burner problem

Ok I have 100 psi on the fuel. So is it Electric?

HVAC is not my trade. This problem occurs after a shutdown of how long? I once found the cause of a similar problem that eluded all the "experts" in my area. One of them charged over $400.00 and cured nothing. The oil line came out of the top of the tank and a flare nut there at the top of the tank was not absolutely tight. During long shutdown, like during a warm day in Winter, the oil would leak down and a pocket of air would be in the line. The burner would start and run until the air came to the burner and the flame detector would shut it down. If restarted immediately as soon as the burner permitted, the air would work through and the burner would run perfectly until a prolonged shutdown gave the leak time to do it's mischief again. The brief run had pulled some oil into the line behind the air pocket. Please let me know if this is helpful. Similar problems happen to Diesel vehicles, especially farm equipment.

I'm having a similar issue with my becket 150. I replaced the filter, nozzle and cleaned the burner assembly. It will run fine until the call for heat is satisfied. Then it will try to restart and and go into lockout( 2 second blink) I restart it and again the same cycle. I have noticed recently that it only does this when the temp drops below about 15 deg. Anything above that temp and it runs fine. I did notice that the air mixture dial ( Right side of burner) was loose when I serviced it. I retightened at about 7.5 where it was sitting.

Guys, I am experiencing the exact same problem with my Beckett AFG connected to a Williamson CHB-105-DD (installed in early 2000s). I turn up the thermostat (Nest) and it starts, runs for a 1-2 mins, goes into recycle mode, starts again, and runs for a few mins and locks out. Sometimes it recycles twice before locking out. Now, if I reset the burner then it runs for as long as it has to (e.g., 30-60 mins) until the thermostat shuts it off.

My oil/heat service company came and tells me that the heat exchanger is cracked (based on draft test). I had another guy look at it thoroughly and he says the heat exchanger it okay. He did a draft test as well, vacuumed inside and thoroughly service the burner, i.e., replaced oil filter, strainer, cad cell etc. and checked CO/CO2 levels (flue gas as well as near the vents).

My oil/heating company which initially told me that the heat exchanger is cracked wants ~$6k to replace the whole system. Interestingly, the heat exchanger is still under warranty (20 year, parts only) and so I am looking for some sane advice.

I am just out of ideas and it is about to get very cold here. Not sure if it is an electronics, fuel/piping related or mechanical issue.

It was the damn (Nest) thermostat which was causing it to short cycle and lockout. Replaced with the old one and it works fine.

How long did you have the Nest thermostat? Did it work initially and then started to have problems?

Actually, it was not the Nest, but the primary controller (Honeywell R7184). Replaced it two days ago and no lockouts since. Fingers crossed.

Hello all. Cincinnati, Ohio calling out for help. Like Rusi P, I have the same problem and have the Beckett R7184B as well. So I opened the window and found one of the spark ignitor wires off and had grounded and signs of an old spark-burnt area in the box. So I thought, well heck that’s an easy fix. pulled the tip out since I was in there and cleaned it all up. Put it all back together including the disconnected wire which I clamped a little tighter to stay. Well it’s still doing the cycle for awhile then into recycle mode....then the pump kicks on a minute or so later. No flame this time and then shuts off into lockout.

With all that said, questions....did the short take out my primary ( but it appears to be acting somewhat reasonable with the proper reset functions- meaning if it got cooked I would assume it would not even reset correctly) . Or could all this be a bad thermistor? Please help

And is it normal to have discoloration at a resistor/ capacitor? Like this

In my case it was the controller. Haven't had a single lockout/issue since I replaced it.

The brown discoloration is from a seriously overheated component. Likely that the component needs replaced, at a minimum, and the board may need repaired, if even possible.

Let’s count the issues I have had with Becket AFG.. primary control, cad cell (numerous times), ignition transformer ( on my third since 2005 when the boilers was installed). I have my boiler cleaned, serviced and combustion checked every fall. Wish I had sprung from the Reillo at the time.

I'm having an issue with my beckett furnace i need help once every other day I smell oil coming through my vents strong so I turn off the whole system and turn it back on and its ok for a day or so and does it all over again.

Lisa. i Hope this is not a duplicate comment. My browser crashed during posting. Oil burning equipment should never smell. If it does, it is telling you something is very wrong. Oil smell coming from vents in a forced air furnace may indicate a crack in he heat exchanger. Have your service company look at this ASAP . This is both a health and fire risk. It may be other issues but whatever It is, something is amiss. if you don’t have a regular service company ask your neighbors who they use. Really get this looked at very soon . A small point, Beckett only made the oil burner, some other company made the furnace.