No specific mechanical maintenance is needed.ÃÂ If cold washes are the norm, then the programmable machine-cleaning cycle (see your instruction manual) should be run monthly or so depending on usage habits.

However, a recurring leak obviously indicates a problem. Urgent that the pump be examined for evidence of leaking -- rusting or mineral deposits. Even a small drip is serious, a wet pump can short-out and zap the controller board so a leaking pump must be replaced ASAP.

Another less-common leak can occur if the diverter valve malfunctions. The diverter controls where the pumped water flows, out the drain hose or back into the tub via the recirculation port for the Eco Active wash function. A broken valve or debris in it (lint/strings, a small nail or screw, a dime, etc.) can obstruct it from fully shifting modes. Partial recirculation flow during spin/drain would hit the rim of the spinning basket and splatter around inside the machine to the floor.

Hi dadoes, Thank you very much for replying to my issue.
Is there an easy way to check the pump, and also the diverter valve?
Sorry if this was covered in an earlier thread - it would be great if you could point me in the right direction.
With the right instruction, I don't mind checking myself or even trying to install the new parts myself. It has been a great washer and I hope to keep it working.
Thanks

Access to the pump and diverter is from beneath the machine.

The pump is a small electric motor (with a cooling fan at the bottom) mounted to a bracket under the tub. No tools needed. Unplug the wires. Find a plastic thumb latch on the bracket, hold it released and rotate the entire pump counterclockwise to detach it from the bracket (bayonet mount). Lubricate the seal face around the impeller with a bit of liquid detergent to facilitate rotating the pump into position when remounting it (or a new one).

The diverter is a triangular-shaped gizmo (should be in a clear plastic cover) two wires and three hoses attached -- a U-shaped hose from the tub sump, the drain hose, and the recirculation hose that runs up the side of the tub.

Disconnect the machine from power, of course. And have a towel or two ready to catch any residual water from the tub sump.

Great. I will give this a try tonight. Is it ok to rotate the machine onto its front side to access the bottom of the machine? Or is there a different side of the machine that is more preferable?

I recommend tipping it back against a wall instead of laying down to avoid residual water possibly running out from top of the tub unexpectedly/uncontrollably. Or if laying it down on the front is better, then prop it with something appropriate so it isn't fully flat-down.

We have the exact same machine (purchased in 03) with the exact same problem. Water puddling near the back of the machine. Doesn't happen every load
(but most), seems to happen more with larger loads and maybe with hot water. After reading up, pump failure seemed to be the biggest fail point, so we replaced it ($100 part, easy to do yourself). Thought problem was fixed then it started again. Had appliance repair guy out twice, both time it failed to leak when he ran a load (figures). He cleaned some things out, manipulated a lever here and there, then said if it happens again the only thing he can think to do is replace X (another $100 part + labor).

I'm done with this machine. Came to the forum today to research high efficiency vs speed queens. Deciding between an LG 5070CW and a Speed Queen 432S. It's a hard decision but leaning toward the SQ. Always liked the FP well enough, but have to admit it didn't get out the ring around the collar and grass/grease stains very well.

I ran across a situation once previously ... mineral deposits accumulated on the fill flume (not the recirculation port) caused a bit of misdirection on the water spray away from the tub (but only on a warm fill when the spray pressure is higher). Simple matter of cleaning the deposits on the flume (vinegar, Lime-away, etc.) so the streams from the perforations spray properly into the tub.

Stains and heavier soil may need a more intensive cycle. The Soak option is available. The Perm Press cycle on a warm wash can clean better than Regular on warm. There's also the trick of using the programmable machine-clean cycle to get a full-fill hot wash (although that isn't suitable for protein stains such as grass or blood that may set in hot water).

Dadoes, I'm having the same problem as the OP, only it seems to me my water is more pooling toward the back of the machine, but it's enough that it can run out under the front. It doesn't happen with every load. It might be with larger loads, or when I use warm/hot water, though that may be my imagination. We replaced the pump and the service guy cleaned out the flume thinking it could be deposits just as you said, though he admitted there wasn't much there. It still leaks.

I thought I would give up on the machine but most new ones are too large. What would you try next? Replace the diverter valve? Is this something I could do myself? Could it be something wrong with the drain pipe? Is it worth having the service guy back out? He suggested replacing a part (about $100) during his last visit, don't remember what it was, but wasn't very confident that was the problem, he just didn't know what else to do.

Possible sources of leaking, assuming I haven't missed any --

Pump.

Diverter, either leaking directly ... OR if it isn't fully shifting to drain, which causes some recirculation to occur during spin when the water extracted from the clothes is draining, which would hit the rim of the spinning basket and splatter around inside the cabinet to the floor.

The three connection points of the hoses on the diverter, or the hose on the tub sump.

Recirculation hose where it fits into top edge of the tub.

Any of the hoses being cracked ... examine the span of the drain hose inside the cabinet from the diverter up to where it passes through the cabinet.

Fill flume.

Water valves and mixing chamber inside the console.

Drive shaft / tub center seal.

Cracked tub.

Seal/plug at bottom of the water level pressure air dome, or the pressure hose attached.

Water supply hoses.

Overloading or heavy/bulky items on the highest water level causing excess splashing on the faster agitation speeds (Heavy, Regular, Perm Press cycles).