I am going to give you the very best possible advice! Go to this forum:
http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=1
Now, read = read- read
Don't ask any questions until you have read, read, read

This is the ONLY place I have found where you can get some honest, objective advice. The HVAC business is frought with "Hacks". The salesman is a whole different animal from the installer.

Pay attention to the fine professional and knowlegeable men who are willingly giving thier time to guide us all through this latest HVAC mess. I have compared many of the people who came to my house to give me estimates for a system replacement to Mattress Salesmen.

INSIST on a MANUAL J....Don't fall for the "we don't do that stuff...we've been installing for the last 100 years. Is your AC cold enough? Well then that's what you need".

Search the forums for answers to specific questions..because you are going to bump into important information that you didn't even know that you needed.

I wish you the very best of luck....this isn't fun.

Excellent advice Doral. One caveat, HVAC-Talk are mostly HVAC pros. It is worthwhile to get some input from educated homeowners as well. The hi-tech systems with the most bells and whistles aren't always the best systems for the situation.

1. What would you recommend as a good manufacturer / system for this climate?

- The quality of the install and the ductwork is as important as the manufacturer. Find a competent contractor who you trust. Brand bashing is bull. Make sure that the model numbers of the condenser (outside unit) and air handler (inside unit) are on the quote. With the model numbers, you can verify system sizing as well as SEER/EER performance.


"2. What is the best unit and seer for the money?"

- The mother of all questions. The best unit is a properly matched system that you have researched and feel comfortable that you have received a quality install and a good purchase price.

- What are your electric rates - generation + distribution + transmission (cents per btu-hr. Example: 10 cents per kw-hr)? This will help answer the best SEER for the money question.


"3. Is there enough of a difference between the highest seer units to justify the price differential?"

- The 2nd mother of all questions. This depends on your electric rate. Note that the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) determines your true operating costs as a homeowner and not Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). This is one of those little facts that you may not get from a pro. EER is taken at 95 degrees outside air while SEER is taken at 82 degrees outside. You want a system that has 12 EER minimum regardless of SEER.

- Once above 15 SEER, the systems get more complicated and change from one single speed compressor (most systems have this) to one dual stage compressor (16 SEER) or 2 separate compressors (19 SEER) that run on first and second stages. These provide enhanced humidity control but are much more complicated asd cost a lot more $$. THESE SYSTEMS DO NOT LOWER YOUR UTILITY BILL AS YOUR OPERATING COST IS BASED ON EER AND NOT SEER.

"4. Is it better to replace both units with 2 new ones or does it make more sense to replace with just one unit?"

- Usually, if the house is designed for 2 systems, it is best to keep 2 systems. This will keep the house at a more uniform temperature and minimize hot rooms or rooms with poor circulation and high humidity.

"5. Anyone in the Sarasota area have any really good contractor recommendations?

6. Anyone know how the FPL rebate works?"

Some of the HVAC-Talk guys are from Florida and they can help you. Note that there is also a Federal Tax Rebate from Uncle Sam that you can qualify for as well (15 SEER and 12.5 EER to qualify - both must be met).

Best of luck to you.

A correction: To qualify for a Federal Tax Rebate for a Heat Pump, all 3 of the following must be met:

SEER >/= 15
EER >/= 13
HSPF >/= 9

These are some pretty high numbers to meet.

In my humble opinion, a 14 SEER (with 12 EER) provides the best combination of purchase price and true operating costs.