Pantry's come with a middle shelf for structural stabilization's sake. Pull outs only generally go in the lower portion, and if you want another pullout in the top, it's a separate unit. Your best option is to unjoin the doors and do a traditional pull out below shelves or roll outs in the upper.

Same thing. I expected full pull-outs, but had the permanent shelf in between. I've ordered roll-outs for individual shelves (not the top or bottom, because of price). They are not installed yet, or I'd include a picture.

At what height is the fixed shelf from the floor of the cabinet?

I have a 15 x 84 that pulls out as one unit, but I can see that taller and wider might need something to stabilize the box. My top shelf is about eye level or just above. If it had another shelf above that, I think it would be too high for most folks -- and we're tall.

Did you plans include a space with slots for trays, baking sheets, cutting boards, etc? That tops space would be good for those things, and you might be able to use a larger space above the fridge or ovens, where the vertical storage often goes, for bulk storage and/or some larger items like cereal boxes, chip bags, etc.

Imsscs:

Have you stood that cabinet up in the kitchen yet?

Don't panic if your installers have to cut the toe kick off to let it clear the ceiling. This happened on a job I was on several months ago.

They ought to send these tall ones out as RTA's as far as I'm concerned. I'd make interior alterations a lot easier too.

Ajc71, the fixed shelf is at about 59.5 inches off the floor.

Trebuchet I hadn't thought of that issue. It came in my foyer and living room but both of those ceilings are 9' or greater. Now I'm wondering how that is going to work as I have 3 of these 90" cabinets.

Lascatx, I did plan for tall divided shortage in my oven cabinet. This was going to be baking flours, sugar, cereals, etc. I have a matching 18x90 across from it with adjustable shelves also.

Thank you for all the ideas. I was hoping the wall that it is adjacent to would stabilize it along with the upper and base that are on the other side. We will see how this plays out.

Did you work with a KD on this? I do these often but as LWO points out deflection of the sides needs to be accounted for in the design of the cabinet and the layout. It helps to have cabinets to at least one side, dowelled face frames, wide stiles, an aluminium strut, are helpful but take space. Many brands that offer a suitability made cabinet will ship it with a "removable locking shelf".

If conditions allowed and the shelf was dowelled in place I'd remove it and go ahead. If not then separate the doors and do a pullout in the bottom only.
Just saw your reply, wall to one side and cabinet on other is sufficient support.

NOTE: the center of the floor of the cabinet needs to be supported to the floor below to transfer the load.

Re: standing up talls- most brands will ship talls- with the sub-base loose at no charge if needed.

This post was edited by jakuvall on Sat, Jan 4, 14 at 21:12

Imsscs:

Please measure your kitchen ceiling. If it's 8' (96"), a 90" tall assembled cabinet cannot be stood up without without relieving the bottom in some manner.

Either that or break them apart and reassemble them standing. This is a moderate pain, but not so bad if you wanted some custom features anyway.

You could install two pull outs, one on the lower section and then a shorter one in the upper section...keep your doors pinned, and still use it like a standard tall pull out pantry

Of course you would have to purchase two sets of slides which are a bit on the pricey side...

Kessebohmer will have the adjustable frames that would be required to do this

Now that everything is unpacked there is at least a little better news. They were able to stand up the pantries without hitting the ceiling. They told me there was a technique to it. Once everything was unpacked, it turns out they didn't join the two doors together as instructed on the pantry cabinet. As a result, I'm going to go with a shorter pantry insert and hinge the door at the top. Once I unpack the contents of my kitchen I'll determine whether I want tall storage or pull-outs in the upper section.

I did work with a KD but at times he wasn't as detailed as I would have liked. Things are coming together nicely. Thank you everyone for all your info and help. GW always comes to the rescue.

I have a 29" cabinet over a pull-out. It has an adjustable shelf. I keep cutting boards on the bottom shelf and trays, pizza pans, and cookie sheets on the upper shelf. You just need to grab a corner for most of the items on the upper shelf. Mine is fridge depth, so every now and then something migrates to the back of the cabinet and I need a step stool.