Are you sure the 24" and 27" aren't uppers?

I see an asymmetrical base cabinet that is 36" on one side and 33" on the other giving you a 12" door on one side of the angle and a 9" on the other. It is available as a lazy susan, or as a cabinet with two straight shelves criss crossing one higher than the other inside the cabinet.

no one will ever want to click on my links; i must be cursed! :(

the link is titled: "Thread: Would you give up a corner cabinet for more drawer space?"

thanks for responding, palimpsest...

well, they are base cabinets in the Schuler brochure from Lowe's. The code is DBFH, widths: 24"-27" if that helps. but that makes more sense if they are wall.

there is a similar spec book online for Medallion Cabinetry, but it is from "Signature Kitchens and Baths", in .pdf form. So I will try to link it, but i understand if you don't want to click on it. it may doom me to post it.

and i blew it with the 33" symmetrical cab; it does come with a susan; can't tell if it's hinged, but it's 90-degree door.

hope you saw my post saying thanks earlier for your post on the other thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Medallion Design Guide from Signature Kitchens

I would much rather have the 33" straight cab, but I don't like corners much.

To me, that cabinet looks like it is shallower and the back of the cabinet would sit well forward of the actual wall corner.

Look at the drawings : the sides of the lazy susan and pie cut cabinets are 24" deep (and then 9-12 inches bigger across the back sides to allow for the 9-12 portion of the pie cut to be exposed where the door is. (So the back is 33-36)

With the cabinet that has the 45-degree door. The Back is 24". If the sides were also 24" it would either be a perfect square that was completely buried by the adjoining cabinets. If the back is 27" and the sides were 24" there would be three inches projecting out --the diagonal of that would be a very narrow door.

So, I think the back is either 24 or 27 but is it made to sit forward in its space. If it were made full depth things would get lost in it. It is still a relatively small opening: you may need to tilt larger pots and pans to get them in and out.There is probably a more convenient solution.

I think this cabinet, (FDSB 24-27) takes up as much space in the front, with its diagonal door as the one right before it (FDSB, LDCB, DCB,-36"), they are just installed differently.

@cosmo_nj: yeah, the corners are a pain. just thought the extra space for prepping could be worth it... or not.

@palimpsest: okay, so the "back dimension" does not equal the wall dimension in the 24"/27" cabs, because as you said, they would just be buried between the other adjoining cabs.

that's what I was thinking, which is why i couldn't picture how they'd work.

but if it looks to you like the 24"/27" cabs take up as much face as the larger cabs, maybe they are just shallow versions of the bigger ones?

you wrote, "there is probably a more convenient solution."

take-out food? :)

okay, thanks for helping me sort out the cabs. i don't know if i will ever have a layout to post at this rate.

Question, IronCook...is the corner you're working on a corner where two walls meet or a corner with one wall + a peninsula?

Personally, I would not make the corner dead space unless you nave a lot of storage elsewhere. You might consider drawers. I think Plllog has corner drawers.

BTW...your links all work...at least in this thread! :-)

If it is walled corner, then you really doh't buy that much prep space by turning round the corner. If it is a peninsula, then yes, you can have someone standing on the other side. If that is the case and you do the peninsula, then I strongly recommend ditching the corner cabinet concept and instead having a cabinet that is accessible from the other side of the counter. We replaced a blind corner with this configuration and the difference was remarkable.

This is an example of what we're talking about if the corner is a peninsula...

Note the 27" cabinet on the outside of the corner...facing away from the center of the kitchen. (It's our "Pet Center"...dog food & treats are on the bottom shelf; leashes, collars, etc. are on the second shelf; the top drawer contains flashlights & batteries. The "shelves" are roll out tray shelves (ROTS).)

Buehl - exactly! In our kitchen, we installed an outlet and phone jack in that cabinet. We used it to hide our printer + all the internet connectivity wires & routers etc.

I would either use the corner solution with the corner door and susan, or the blind corner with the good pullout, rather than that reach in base with the angled door. The door on that angled cabinet is smaller than the interior and I think that's problematic.

If its a peninsula like Buehl's I would use the back of the peninsula access.

Sorry to hi-jack the thread but saw this brought up and thought It could help-

" * Posted by palimpsest (My Page) on
Sat, Jan 22, 11 at 22:04

I see an asymmetrical base cabinet that is 36" on one side and 33" on the other giving you a 12" door on one side of the angle and a 9" on the other. It is available as a lazy susan, or as a cabinet with two straight shelves criss crossing one higher than the other inside the cabinet. "

I dont see a link on your post and I looked at the link above your post but the lazy suzan pic looks to have equal doors.
where is this cabinet you speak of?

I have a lazy susan with 5.5" opening on one side and 8" on other side and looking for ideas on how to put a door on it.
I would have made the 5.5" side wider but the stove is already tight up to the doorway. it used to be closed off and the whole corner was unused boxed in space.

thanks,
Ryan

Sparky1981:

Look at the Medallion Design Guide in the post *below mine.

On page 17, they show some asymmetric corner base cabinets.

When I answered I had looked at a Thomasville Cabinetry spec guide which is from Home Depot because it has a pretty well-rounded assortment of cabinets that is fairly comparable to what many companies offer and pretty easy to access from the Thomasville Cabinetry website.

Hope this helps.

thanks for your thoughts, everyone.

the corner I am thinking on is an interior corner (walled).

the L-shape would only buy a 24" prep space on the side (along depth direction) of 15" drawers. but at least it would be out of the cook's way.

i do have a small peninsula currently on the other side. it's sort of a squished G-shaped kitchen. so this would make it a squished C-shape... i think.

I was thinking I could also just do everything on one line and a small island, sort of like palimpsest's kitchen (on another thread). that's where the "Cool Small Kitchen" thread came in.

sorry, my ideas are all over the place.

btw, i did save buehl's pet center info from another thread, only it had a sweet kitchen accessory called Ruby, not featured here. :)

thanks again.

I have a 33" super susan in my kitchen. It was the only size that would fit in that spot and while its small, Its a good place to hold the less frequently used pots and small appliances. It isn't as useful as drawers though.

I do understand the trade-offs you are forced into. What do you need more of counter space or cabinet storage? If you have another area that can be the primary holder of pots & pans, then go for the extra counter area that the U can give you, otherwise I think you would be better off going for the 33" drawers.

@buehl: that was tremendously helpful, thanks! you were correct in your guesses at the layout.

i had no idea that the time spent at the range was so small. valuable to know, because i don't think i would have considered that.

i really like how your kitchen works and is organized for storage. it's a really good teaching/study tool. (your slideshow on boxing in a fridge, for example.)

have you ever considered writing a book? you have a talent for analyzing kitchens and explaining them.

there are plenty of sources that teach about the triangle, zones, kitchen shapes, etc., BUT not many (any?) that help a person DECIDE what will work best for him/her. your explanation of the L vs. U layout in my case is a good example, and how you related it back to your own mini-peninsula as working example.

working title: "how to design a kitchen that works for YOU".

just a thought. i will try the cardboard. too. thanks. :)

I'm glad my explanations and pics were helpful. Sometimes I think I over-analyze and over-explain things, but I want people to understand why things work/don't work, not just tell them. I like things explained to me so I understand, so I assume others do as well...I've never liked not knowing! (I was such a trial for my parents...always wanting to know why about everything!)