If the exterior is aluminum that is held with visible screws, it may be much easier to remove one exterior section at a time and insulate that way. No mess inside, much easier than removing the paneling. There probably will be an inch or two of insulation already and space for insulation may be limited. Buy some R-11 that is used for soundproofing, it may fit as-is. Or buy R-19 unfaced and split it into thicknesses that fit your situation.

I second what bus_driver said. Just remove the siding and put the insulation in there. Something else to consider would be replacing any doors or windows if you have the older ones. They are not like the windows/doors of today and will greatly help! If they are newer, then try re-caulking and sealing up around the edges. Look for cracks and seal those babies up. Little things will make a HUGE difference!

Don't tear your home apart, buy cladmate board insulation and attach it directly to the outside walls with screws and washers. No need for home wrap just apply siding overtop of the insulation. That's what I did and put up beautiful cedar shake and siding.

Was the cladmate board insulation expensive? My daughter-in-law wants to sell her trailer in the near future but it needs insulation. Of course, she wants to upgrade it some but cost is a factor.

The cladmate insulation is abit expensive, I would only do it if I planned to stay in the home. But it was so easy and we did all of the skirting as well so it looks like a cedar cottage.

I have inherited the ancestral trailer home. After living over seas for many years I returned home to care for the second family generation to live in this home. I have thought of selling it off, but with the cost of todayâÂÂs housing, like a used car, I am thinking itâÂÂs not such a bad place after all.

ItâÂÂs a 1972 Brookwood double wide, 960 square feet. It has been well cared for over the years, but it is time for an update.

I am looking at gutting the paneling on the inside and re-insulating, thinking of a foil lined rigid foam lined insulation. Keep in mind the walls are only about 2 inches think. The roof was replaced/ added onto about 20 + years ago with a lifetime roof and an additional 4 inches of Styrofoam insulation. I would also like to insulate between the 12â center 2 x 6 floor joists, either with a blow insulation or an expanding foam insulation.
The flooring is 5/8ths.

To add rigidity to the walls and the structure I am considering a 3/8â to ýâ plywood in addition to a 1/2â drywall for a smoother wall surface, exterior walls only. Keep in mind the structure has now been here for 42 years. All of the windows have been replaced with vinyl double paned windows also the same time as the roof. To date there has been no punctures. I am also planning on replacing the hallow core front door, and eventually replacing the odd sized bathroom tub/shower and revamping the bathroom.

Any thoughts, sharing experiences, would be much appreciated, and thank you before hand.

TheNorsky

@jmzhbz can I use cellulose insulation for a 12×6 work trailer I am converting. Hoping to make it a comfortable half hideaway/half work trailer

I live in a 1972 vintage Concord Mobile Home. Our weather can get down to -38 in winter and up to 96 in summer. Insulation is my big issue because we also have strong winds here.

I recently had to replace my front door. I measured both height and width but never thought I would have an issue with the depth. Come to find out that the walls of the home are ultra thin. So, I now have the beautiful weatherproof and straight door sitting 1 5/8 inside the thin and crooked home walls.

I need to fix this but not quite sure how to do this. I want to further insulate the large front wall with electrical and three newer dual pane windows. The entire home probably needs more insulation but my funds are limited so, I need to do things one at a time. Right now getting the door totally inside the home is the most important.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

You might try some 1x4 molding or plain pine boards and frame out your door on the inside. We did this and it looks nice. Also put 1x4 (after staining) along the seams in the LR ceiling. Looks like a hunting lodge.

Why not use a poly-lined sheath overhang to reduce air flow. It mitigates the colder winds and allows for a beginning point for further work. Even a woman could handle this.