Dents are not a good indicator.

Does it have a solid surface film?

It is hard enough to paint.

Thanks for the response, brickeyee.

I guess it is ready to paint. The putty on the window I did yesterday is sticky, whereas I can run my fingers over the 2 week old putty.

"The putty on the window I did yesterday is sticky, whereas I can run my fingers over the 2 week old putty. "

That is about all you need.

It is actually preferred the putty NOT fully harden.

Once it does it starts to crack and not adhere to the glass from thermal expansion of the glass.

Once it "skins" over it is ready to paint, usually a day or 2. Be SURE you prime with an oil based primer as you should have BEFORE applying the glaze.

A day or 2? The DAP 33 container says 7-14 days depending on the temperature.

And yes, oil-based primer - the slow drying type.

"The DAP 33 container says 7-14 days depending on the temperature. "

It depends on how much work you want to go through to get the stuff to skin over.

If I have more than a single window I usually build a quick 'hot box' using a 100 W incandescent bulb for heat and some heavy plastic.

day or 2, week or 2, it depends on how much sun is hitting it and for how long

I'm just starting to reglaze my 1904 house windows. I'm using '33 but same question stream-- should I re hang the sash I puttied while it dries enough to paint? I've got a storm, so it's optional right now, but I've got MANY windows to do and can't imagine waiting 7-10 days to finally paint??

Also, are there any other brands people like in particular? I heard one bad thing about '33, but that's about it.

I invariably prime the entire sash before replacing the glass, so I have no need to prime again before the finish paint, which is gloss oil, The putty doesn't need priming when it has skinned.
Although I have never used it, I understand that Sarco putty beats the Dap 33 product in drying time, and I hope consistency. I always have to do something to a quart or gallon of the Dap product to get it fit for use, It's either too runny or too dry.
Casey

Here is an eleven-page thread about window putty:

Here is a link that might be useful: Putty Analysis

Put together a small hot box using plastic sheeting and a 100 W light bulb.

Is a small room heated to 80 degrees the equivalent of a hot box?

80 degrees isn't going to do a lot. It can't hinder the drying; but it won't accelerate it a great amount. I kept newly-glazed wood sash in the back of my pickup (under the truck cap) in the sun for a week to get the putty to speed set. Days it would hit 135 in there.
Casey

I aim for around 100F to 120 F.

Part of the worry is shrinking the wood excessively and causing splits and cracks.

Have you ever tried a wood moisture meter to monitor your progress? I have no experience with these devices.

A moisture meter will not tell you anything useful about the putty hardening, the goal of the process.

I should have made it clear that I wondered if you had used a moisture meter to monitor the wood itself before repainting.

I've been reglazing the windows on the front of my house this week with dap 33. in a tub, not the tube of caulk stuff. takes a little while to get the hang of it, but it seems to go pretty good. I did the first window about 10 days ago, and it has set up enough to paint now.
of course it was 20% rain yesterday afternoon. which is usually nothing to worry about..but
as soon as I got the glazing points installed to hold the pane in place...rain.
what a pita. so tomorrow and saturday...I'll be back at it.
thanks for telling me about the dap 33 product. I really like it.
oh and inox..the wood of my windows was really really dry.
we have had a dry summer. levels of moisture didn't even register on my moisutre meter..(just fyi)

Have any of you tried Glaze-Ease 601, which can be painted in two hours, and is applied with a caulking gun?

Here is a link that might be useful: Glaze-Ease 601

Not used Glaze-Ease, but it would seem to me that applying with a caulking gun requires an extremely steady hand with it being difficult to control...putty just requires a knife to smooth it off for a nice looking finish.

I'd imagine it contains silicone to dry so fast...and doesn't that need replacing every ten years or so?

Glaze-Ease 601 is a blend of silicone and acrylic caulk. It is intended to remain elastic, and is expected to remain so for 40 years. There is a video at their site (linked above) showing application. Yes, the man is a caulking gun virtuoso.

Dap 33 is a very good product. I have used it for over 40 years. It does take forever to cure, but if the window you are doing is white , I would use Bin 123 primer after 2 weeks drying time. Not many know it but 123 works good by its self and I never top coat it when doing windows if they are white. I have also used Dap 33 without top coating and have had no problems.

The Dap33 container says to not use on windows over 48”. Does anyone know why not?