I only build 3/4" boxes but really not a big deal. I would only be concerned about what the backs are. they take most of the stress.

it depends, if the cabs are frameless, then 3/4 is the standard. If they are framed full overlay, then I've seen 1/2, 5/8 or 3/4.

3/4" is complete overkill for framed cabinets. 1/2" is closer to "standard" there. In framed cabinets, the strength comes from the face frame, and that should be 3/4" solid hardwood.

For frameless, where the box is the total strength of the cabinetry, 3/4" is a necessity. You don't have a face frame to create strength. (Frameless is just as strong as framed once installed.)

In neither is the back of the cabinet all that important. It's not structural. What IS structural though is the the hanging rail, which should be rabbited and screwed and glued into the sidewalls. Some cabinets will advertise their "full 1/2" back" like that's a sought after upgrade. It's OK, but it's not needed as long as the hanging rail is adequate. The main "bonus" to a full 1/2" back cabinet is that the attachment screw can go anywhere on that back. But, since you are only going to have contact with studs at certain vertical dimensions along the back, having a full structural back really isn't the big bonus that the makers want you to believe it is.

You did not say what the material is. Plywood, MDF, particle board?

jmcgowan if you want to maximize the use of space, have the cabinets built frameless, and with drawers, drawers, drawers, drawers -- as frameless + drawers is the best ergonomically and the only way to maximize space and storage. This is true by all accounts. It is not a subjective thing.

In your original post you asked the the thickness of the wall of the cabinet. Include information about drawers and whether the cabinet boxes are frameless / with-frame. Then, your question about space will make sense.

Although 3/4 is the common thing (with frameless cabinets), a 5/8 thickness can also be good.

my comment is not specific to the dimension question but an overall comment. i ended up having major issues with the cabinet maker i went with. some of the early warning signs were what you described: we discussed details but what came back did not match our discussions. i ended up having to micro manage him on all aspects of the job in terms of design and documentation. he also sub contracted out the priming of cabinet doors and the sub made a major error that required a complete rebuild of all the doors, causing major time delays.

i say all this to just caution you. be sure your guy is delivering and manage closely if required.

Thanks for all of the replies...it's taken me awhile to get back online, I've had sick kids.

All this info is good. In my case, the cabinets are framed (inset, Shaker style), with maple plywood boxes and maple hardwood (which will be painted). All lower cabinetry is drawers with the exception of cabinets for the pantry (floor to ceiling, 15" interior depth), the cabinets under the sinks, a tray cabinet over the wall oven, a utility closet (floor to ceiling) and dish cabinet (counter to ceiling).

Based on this, I will stick with the 5/8 inches unless someone else chimes in with objections/different advice.

Live_Wire, thanks for the info on the hanging rail, that was a good reminder to double-check these details.

Babushka cat, you are right on. Thank goodness this cabinetmaker has worked a lot with other folks on our team and their end product is excellent. But I agree, some items were verbally agreed upon and not spelled out in our contract. We are lucky in that the cabinetmaker is standing by their word. But others in our situation might not have been so lucky. My recommendation to those who are using a custom cabinetmaker is to ensure everything is laid out in the contract beforehand. Unfortunately, in our situation, some items were not apparent until we reviewed the shop drawings. So it's important to work with someone that you can trust to do the right thing in the end and stand by their work. And I'm willing to pay for items that I think are fair (i.e., we did not discuss and are expensive add-ons); and our cabinetmaker has not charged us for smaller items/changes. A good end result!

Davidro1, I already had chosen our cabinet style, but just strongly recommended frameless to my best friend who is redoing her kitchen. Her space is limited, so even more important to utilize space efficiently!