The answer is no. A submersible turbine style of pump is the only way to go when you are at those depths. Submersibles push the water out of the well whereas the pump you are talking about attempts to suck the water out albeit that it recycles a small percentage of pressurized water in order to help boost the water being drawn.

The deep-well jet pump is pretty much at its limit at 120 feet. They work best at depths up to 75 feet.

If you have to replace your pump, then consider a Grundfos deep well submersible.

I thought as much. Thanks for confirming it.

I don't expect to replace the pump more than once in my lifetime.
Just thought if I had to replace it I would make it easier for
the next time it had to be done.

Called the well driller today and asked him what it costs
to have him come out and change a pump. He said about $700.
He even told me how to do the job myself.
Probably harder than he made it sound tho.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

There are multi-stage jet pumps for very deep wells. But the submersible is by far the better choice. It operates more efficiently. The jet pump probably will have some component in the system to fail sooner also.

Changing out a pump that is 250 feet below ground level is a daunting task for the homeowner. Alot of submersible pumps are installed using galvanized iron pipe that is usually at least 3/4" or even 1" in diameter. Each 20 foot length of pipe has to pulled out of the well and then unscrewed.

You have the weight of the pump, the wiring, 250 feet of iron pipe plus the water in that pipe to lift. And every time you do a twenty foot plus lift, you must carefully secure the pipe that is still in the well because if it drops back down, then you will be calling the well driller for a very expensive retrieval.

Some things are just best left to the pros who have the equipment and expertise to do it right.

The pipe down the well is either PVC or PE pipe.
The well guy uses one or the other in his installations.

We called Lowes yesterday to see what a new pump costs.
Somewhere between $300 and $350, and we do the work ourself.
Or it cost about $700 too have the well driller change it.
I told my Dad he could pay the $350 we would spend on the well
pump and I would pay the rest to have the well driller change it.
And this is only if it ever needs changed.

I don't understand why my Dad is so worried about that pump.
It works fine. It has worked fine for 6 years now.
I don't know how long they last but I don't expect a failure anytime soon.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

Since my question has already been answered
I am gonna hijack my own post.

For those that were keeping up with last year's saga
of me trying to setup a pump to pump water out of the river,
I finally got an accurate measurement of the height.
The corner of my house at the ground
is 22 feet higher than the surface of the water.
I plan on trying again this year.
Just thought you would like to know.

Pooh Bear

A shallow well jet pump will work for that application. Sump pumps won't deliver water if you have a 22 foot head.

The sump pump I have will do it.
It is rated for 150GPM @ 22ft elevation.
Just can't afford the electric wire to go
that far to the river (450ft 6awg or maybe 8awg).

I have another pump I can run off my tractor PTO.
Gonna use it this year.

Pooh Bear

Here is a link that might be useful: My Zoeller Pump

PVC is not a good choice for a submersible pump. The torque twist when the motor starts will eventually break the pipe. The unanimous choice of installers in this area is heavy duty black polyethylene of at least 160 PSI rating.

That's the pipe I have. Only I think it's a 100psi rating.
When I tested the pump it didn't twist at all that I could see.

I put the pump in a barrel full of water with the output
pipe sticking straight up. Put a bucket over the pipe
so that the water would just drop back down in the barrel.
Should have tied the bucket down the first time.
When I turned the pump on it launched the bucket skyward.
I went and retrieved the bucket and this time I tied it down.
Let the pump sit there and pump water for about 20 minutes.
Figured that was long enough to test it. Worked great.

When the weather gets warm enough I'll start back on this project.

Pooh Bear

What are you doing with this water once it reaches your house?

This year it will only be used for irrigation.
Last year the garden was almost a total loss for lack of water.
Eventually I hope to get a swimming pool.
I can use the system to fill the pool instead of using the well.

Pooh Bear

Mmmmmmm OK... irrigation I assume, means that you are letting the water run freely out of the discharge from the pump and not trying to get any pressure from it.

I can also see this working for filling that swimming pool, when you get it. Water is water, for the most part. You can super chlorinate the pool once it is filled. That will kill everthing that is in the water and then either the skimmer or the pool vac will clean out any debris.

And that's not your average sump pump that you find at most big box stores. LOL That's a real kick-ass pump meant to do some serious work.

If the use of this pump is going to be a long-term thing, then here is an option. If I was in your position, I would try and find a utility sub-contractor. These are private enterprises that do work for local hydro authorities. The string overhead wires on hydro poles and sometimes install service lines into homes and businesses.

As such, they often have huge reels of wire sitting in their yards that was provided to them by the local utilities. However, those local utilities often change their minds about the type of wire that they want these people to install. When that happens, partial reels of wire end up sitting in the contractor's yard for years.

So......... guys like you and me can often buy this surplus wire for a song. You should ask them if they have any #2 or #3 tri-plex overhead wire around that is now obsolete. Both of these consist of two insulated aluminum conductors plus an un-insulated neutral lead.

You then need a five hundred foot length of 1 1/4" black poly pipe. You can use compressed air to blow a piece of fishing line through the pipe first and then use that to pull a 1/4" poly rope through. The poly rope will then be used to pull the tri-plex through.

Rent a chain-type trencher that will dig two feet deep and install the poly pipe in that trench. Backfill the trench.

Down by the river, dig a post hole and install a 4x4 PT post three and a half feet into the ground and 4 and a half feet above grade. Put a eight by eight by four inch deep plastic electrical junction box on that pole. Using a combination of fittings, you can change from the poly pipe to the gray PVC electrical pipe down at the bottom of the trench. This will allow you to bring the electrical PVC pipe up one side of the pole and properly into the plastic junction box.

You can use the bare conductor of the Tri-plex as your ground lead and the other two will give you 240 volts for the pump or 120 volts. IF you need 120, then wrap WHITE tape around one of the insulated leads to signify that it's the neutral. You can use split bolts to connect regular copper wiring to the Tri-plex. Just use the correct paste on the aluminum first before taping up the exposed split bolt connections really, really well.

Up at the house, mount another junction box on the foundation wall, a foot or so above grade. Use a small diameter carbide bit to drill through the center of the back of the junction box and into the foundation wall.

Remove the box and drill the appropriate size hole through the foundation wall to allow 10/2 Romex to enter the junction box. Use split connectors, tape and paste to make these connections. The Romex will now go to a dedicated breaker in your panel for this pump. The breaker choice will depend upon the voltage of the pump. If it's 240, then you need a double pole 15 amp breaker most likely. At most, 20 amp but that will be determined by the current being drawn by the pump. For 120 volt, a single pole 20 amp or 30 amp may be required.

Do the same transition from poly to PVC pipe at the house as you do at the pole by the river. I have personally done this type of installation many times in the past. The oversized aluminum wire will give you the needed amperage because the line losses are negligible. I would backfill the trench to within six inches of grade and then lay that yellow or red CAUTION tape in the trench before completing the backfill. That way, if you hit the tape in the future, you know that the wire is just below.

You can then put an appropriate outlet for the pump in another plastic receptacle box, just below the junction box and if you need a switch to control the pump, then add that too.

I have 500 feet of of 1 inch poly pipe.
According to the pump owner's manual
I can go up to 280 feet on 10 AWG wire.
Or 450 feet on 8 AWG wire.
There is a dry creekbed that goes down
one side of the property to the river.
I was thinking of trenching from the river
back to the 250 foot point to allow water
to flow back that far and setting the pump there.
Hope to build a pump house this summer.
I got a lot of projects planned for this summer.

I don't need any pressure. Just volume.
And I swim in the river, so I figure I can use
it to fill a pool and chlorinate it real good.

I got the pump out of the local classified ads for $20.

Pooh Bear

If you do that trenching, then the water in the trench will go stagnant on you because you have created a shallow, dead-ended creek.

The price of copper has gone nuts in recent times. In 1990, I could buy a 75 metre roll of 14/2 Romex wire for around $26.00 Canadian at Home Depot. Today, the same roll of wire, at the same store, costs $74.00.

It is for this reason that I suggested going with oversized aluminum Tri-plex that is normally used as an overhead supply line to homes with a 100 amp service. Around here, I can buy that stuff cheaper than what three runs of #8 copper would cost and it would work much better because the line losses wouldn't even factor in.

If I were you, I would reconsider going the trench route. Stagnant water is a breeding ground for mosquitoes (West Nile Virus) and you would be creating a whole new eco system in your back yard as a result.

And at $20.00 for that pump, you didn't buy it....you stole it.

Hadn't thought about stagnant water.
I've got time to come up with the wire.
I'll be using the tractor pump this summer for the garden.
I used it once last summer but had to run it off an inverter.
This summer it will be run off the PTO.
It's just one of those cheap little Harbor Freight clear water
pumps. I removed the fan and cover off the back and put a
love-joy coupling on the motor shaft. Will hook the PTO
to a 1:14 step up transmission and then to the pump.
I have 1200 gallons of storage I can fill up once per week.
Then use the stored water in the garden all week.
Or maybe even set up a drip irrigation system.

Pooh Bear