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IPE Porch flooring 101 needed!

18 years ago

We are adding a 13 x 26 ft screened porch to our house and have a tough time deciding on the type of flooring to use. We have looked at numerous floors on this forum and like the look of the non-weathered IPE, T&G, i.e. no visible fasteners. We have also learned a lot from the many postings by experienced craftsmen in response to the DIY folks like ourselves but we still find it difficult to apply it wisely to our specific project described below.

The porch floor will be 2-4 inches higher than the surrounding flagstone and the porch will be screened and have an approx. 14 inch flat roof overhang which will limit exposure to direct rain on the floor. A trench drainage system with grates around the porch perimeter will catch and divert rainwater on the flagstone so there is no chance for water (other than condensation) to get under the porch floor. Floor height above ground will vary from ~ 16"on side C to ~24" on side A. Cross ventilation will be limited to an approx 24" x 6" opening on side C and 24" x 12" on side A since the stone wall is already in place on one side and a basement entrance obstructs the other side.

Is T&G IPE suitable for our situation? If so, how to accomplish a successful installation?

IPE 101 Questions:

Which board width - 4" or 6" Â will be least prone to cupping? Joists (2x12) 12" or 16" on center? Boards tight or deliberately spaced a bit? (likely install during typical East Coast high humidity Aug-Sept) Butt joints tight or spaced? (Or I could avoid them altogether by dividing floor framing into 2 sections and run joists parallel to house and floor boards out from house but I then need exact lengths (12 ft boards with picture framing) Â supplier on east coast?) Screw through T or G? Type/size of screws & pre-drill bit? Glue boards to joists? What pitch if any? Increase cross vent via a few floor vents around perimeter? (drawback: water will then for sure get in under floor) Recommended treatment to create that "wet" look and prevent (delay) weathering? Anything else I may have overlooked?

Any and all comments most welcome

Max

Comments (10)

  • 18 years ago

    Good supplier for T&G ipe>>East Teak Lumber 800 338 5636Cross Ventalation is a Must using this material in your setting,in fact its a good idea using Any material on Any project.The exact same amount of water is going to get thru your project with floor vents or with out them. This kind of decking drains the same way as any other decking thru the gap.

    T&G ipe is suitable I use 1x6 material as long as your joists are on 16'' centers and your frame is compltley secure.

    Be sure you are understanding this>>>do not try to install outside decking the same way an interior floor is put downInstalling this material is Not a DIY project. There are several learned trade knowladge procedures that must be followed. John Mon

  • 18 years ago

    "The porch floor will be 2-4 inches higher than the surrounding flagstone "

    This may end up being a trip hazard. A normal step should be 5" to 8" I usually try to make a normal step or a flush transition.

  • 18 years ago

    John,

    Thank you for your response. You do point out that there are several trade procedures to follow to ensure a successful installation and I was hoping to obtain some of those to apply on my own project. Although I am definitely not a pro, I do have years of home improvement work under my belt (see my rambling post of April 26 that no one understandably cared to respond to it) however I have zero experience from using Ipe.

    Direct Questions on T&G Ipe

    - If boards not tight then how much space to allow for while installing? How much T does that leave to lock in with the G?
    - Butt joints tight or spaced?
    - Type/size of screws & pre-drill bit?
    - Screw through T or G? (I have seen both recommended here)
    - What pitch?
    - With Ken and Woodzotic apparently a question mark - Recommended (annual?) treatment to prevent (delay) weathering?

    Thanks,

    Max

    + + + + + + +

    aidan m,

    You are absolutely correct  normal step height would be 5-8" and I am concerned with a smaller riser becoming a trip hazard or "toe stubber", however for reasons explained in my lengthy April 26 post, I have limited options. Under the circumstances, do you think it would be better if I went for max available (3-4") or the very minimum (say 1") in combination with grates over a trench drainage system outside side D of the porch?

    Thanks,

    Max

  • 18 years ago

    Change is Change,Money is Money,what sticks to the Bee is what makes the Honey. J.

  • 18 years ago

    I think you can pull off a 4" step. The surface material changes, it will be visible.

  • 18 years ago

    John,
    You have to excuse me, but I am having difficulty applying your May 5 poetry to the very direct advice I was seeking in my same day postÂ
    I suppose one interpretation could be that the QUEEN Bee is getting tired of sharing its expertise and therefore sends me a KILLER Bee when all this WORKER Bee was looking for was some simple adviceÂ
    :-)

  • 18 years ago

    aidan_m

    As much as I have stared at my layouts and sketches, I had forgotten the visual impact that the change in material will have. Thanks for pointing it out. A 4" step should be fine.

    Max

  • 18 years ago

    The advice for T&G ipe is an advanced subject, there is no way I can talk you thru your project over here.

    Simple advice is not going to get you thru this install. But if your going on with it, go for it Bro!! J.

  • 18 years ago

    Install a small light in the step riser if the front of the porch is dark at night.

  • 18 years ago

    If you can find an affordable source for t&g Mahogany, that would be an easier way to get the look you want and be able to DIY. Mahogany is a real pleasure to work with and naturally resistant to decay. Finish it with a high quality penetrating oil and resins finish that will give it a hard surface.