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mikeb_ny

roof under Ipe deck

20 years ago

I'm getting ready to build my deck, 8' above ground, 16' wide (along house) by 14' deep. I have pretty much settled on 1x6 Ipe for the decking. Deck will be partially shaded. I would like to waterproof under the deck for a protected patio. I don't really have the height to do a torch-down roof plus stringers plus decking. I was thinking of doing something similar to "DekDrain", using EPDM draped over the joists and decking on top of that. The troughs would end at my beam, 12' out from house. 2x10 joists, troughs would drape down about 1-2" at the ledger, down to 5-6" at the beam. Will I get sufficient ventilation this way? Should I switch to 1x4 decking for additional ventilation and cupping resistance? Deck is on east side of house.

DekDrain puts a strip of aluminum between the rubber and the decking, probably needed so the oils in the wood and or sealer don't damage the rubber (DekDrain warns about this), I would do something similar.

When I asked the guys at IpeDepot about the cupping issue they recommended sealing all 4 sides of the deck boards, but I've read here that's a bad idea, basically each board can become a bathtub for water.

BTW, cost of DekDrain for 12x16 is about $750, I've found 45 mil EPDM from pond supply stores for about $150.

RainEscape sells a similar system but uses 20 mil plastic, also about $750. Is plastic a better idea? More resistant to oils / grease?

I like the idea of having the material over the joists so no water is in contact with the framing, plus the framing moisture (when new) can't get to the decking.

Comments (5)

  • 20 years ago

    John

  • 20 years ago

    John,
    I'm limited on height for a few reasons - the ledgers are already up (deck is in a corner of the house), I've got windows underneath the deck and a doorway above, and if the joists (and beam) get too low the patio underneath will be unusable.

    I definitely see your point about things being too wet under the decking, but it seems like you would have the same issue with a torchdown roof - with the draped troughs I would think water would more easily be shed since it would flow to the middle of the trough and then drain out (water is less spread out than with a planar slope underneath).

    I've seen deckman22 suggest using sheet metal under the deck as a roof, but after searching the archives haven't been able to find his full explanation of how to do so.

    I've also considered using corrugated plastic under the joists screwed to a series of crosswise, graduated-in-size stringers. That way there would be air movement all the way around the joists.

    I apologize for beating a dead horse, it's just that I hadn't seen anyone post about the draped-type underdeck roofing before.

  • 20 years ago

    Using a torch down would lower the joist height 1 1/2 '' or so no reason to change the ledger, in 14' a person would need 1'' of fall,the stringers run in the direction of the fall so water just runs off it nothing stayes underneith. Al has been using that glav. metal for a while now you could e-mail him I am thinking.

    All the decking sitting on plastic is just asking for trouble. J

  • 20 years ago

    Okay, thanks John! I understand your point now, it's the wood on plastic that results in trapped water with nowhere to go. That makes sense to me.

    I did email Al, haven't checked for a response yet.

    When you say the joist height gets lowered 1 1/2", do you mean the total additional height is only about 1 1/2" taller? I'm thinking 2x10 joist plus 1/2" plywood plus torchdown material (minimal) plus 2x4 stringer plus 3/4" decking. Or do you lay those 2x4s flat?

    Do you anchor the stringers in any way, or just let the whole system float on top of the torchdown? I guess you could just tie into the railing posts.

  • 20 years ago

    2x4s lay flat on strips of the torch down granulated up,thats just a little extra I do, 1/2'' plywood, 3/4'' decking yup that sounds right, if you cant make it work you cant make it work.

    Do Not screw thru the stringers into the roof, in fact dont puncture the roof at all be real cearfull about that.. I usually dap out the post 1 1/2'' x what ever it takes for that dap to sit on the decking then install the post with high grade constustion adhesive and 1/2'' lags, another way would be to bolt thru with double nuts and seal tight, yet another way would be to use toggle bolts, it all depends on how much wood you are fastening to.

    Execpt for the posts landing on the decking the whole thing is floating as you look at it that way, of course if you get a storm big enough to lift your project that deck is going to be the least of your problems. J