Recommendations for measuring for cabinets

18 years ago

I've been anxiously awaiting our drywall to be hung so that I can take final measurements and push the "go" button with our cabinet maker. That time is now upon me and I'm paralyzed with fear of making a mistake. Normally, I'm sure the cabinet maker or KD would do this for me, but our cabinet maker is Amish and lives over 500 miles away and I did this design without the assistance of a KD, so... For those of you that have done this, or do it for a living, can you give me any advice on how to proceed (except for to measure, and then measure again, and then again?)

Here is our floorplan

I'm not so concerned about the island, because it is "floating" or the nook, which can also move "back and forth" along the wall, but the run with the range and the refrigerator must be "right on" because it is bounded by a wall on the right and a pillar on the left. The fridge also has to slide right into the recessed alcove behind it to appear counter depth. Should I be measuring this length just a "bit" short to ensure the cabinets fit? Should I be measure to the 1/16 of an inch, 1/8 of an inch?

I was thinking of going out and sketching this run of cabinets on the wall. Do you think that is a good idea? Any other suggestions? TIA. I really want to get this right!

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Comments (4)

boxiebabe
18 years ago
What I did to be sure that I was comfortable with the layout and the sizes/measurements was put blue masking tape all over the floor & walls, sort of a mock-up of the new kitchen. I found that to be very effective, and ended up making several changes to our order - the very night before the order was to be placed! Good luck!
User
18 years ago
Measure down to 1/16" for accuracy in 3 different places along the wall. Design for the shortest dimension. Design any tight runs with a trimmable filler in it so that you can have some wiggle room if necessary. You'll need some clearance between the wall cabinet and the adjacent fridge nook so the door doesn't bang into the fridge wall, so put a filler (or trimmable extended stile) there for both the base and wall cabinets to maintain symmetry. If you figure in a standard 3", that gives you up to 2" for wiggle room. (1" is probably all you really need with full overlay cabs.)
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User
18 years ago
And if that's a pantry on the other end of that run that has pull out shelves, you'll also need a filler/extended stile between it and the wall to allow the pull outs to function, so that's another place to design in wiggle room.
jaymielo
Original Author
18 years ago
Thank you for the suggestions. I'm pulling out my blue masking tape and will head out to the house tonight with my great big drywall T-square and measuring tape. That is a really good idea to help visualize. I can also see where all the outlets ended up, etc.

live_wire_oak. The cabinets have inset doors and I wasn't planning for any filer. My cabinet guy has been over the plans with me several times and has caught several things that needed adjustment, but hadn't meantioned this. Because the door swings differently with the inset doors, do you think there is still a need for the filler to the right of the refrigerator cabinet? No pantry at the other end of the run. That is a "counter height cabinet", so again I think the inset doors allow for room for the door to swing open properly?

Here's is the elevation for that run.

Thanks so much for your recommendations! I'm a nervous wreck today. j.