I had linoleum flooring ripped up in the kitchen a few years ago. It took about a day to remove that and the glue. Basically they seal everything off, remove the asbestos stuff, do an air quality check by a certified individual, and that's it.

Thanks sloyd! Do you remember how much it cost? Do you remember how they removed the glue? Thanks again.

I don't know about the asbestos regs, but I do know that what you're talking about can be removed with "Bean-e-doo", then rinsed with "Emerge". I did that once - powerful stuff. One day job.

Contact a few concrete refinishing firms in your area to see who's using it. Or call the mfr. to see who's buying the stuff locally.

"Pulled up carpet in basement and voila! we have black mastic tile glue that has asbestos in it."

What was the test method used to determine this?

Enclosed is a simple test;
An interesting discussion.
Interesting, the asbestos containing adhesive is named, cut-back adhesive.
These products, as with all products containing asbestos as the binding agent only atain a "hazardos" status when they become friable, iE airborne.
Since there was a lack of consistency, state to state, for the remediation of these products, encapsulation became the method of choice and so, many have been simply covered over with "safe" products.

The simple test that determines whether or not cut-back adhesive is present is to spill boiling water on an exposed area. If the water puddles, you have cut-back adhesive, if the adhesive melts, you do not.
The solution in the removal process is to keep the area moistened which will serve to prevent the binder from becoming friable.
There are also several products which work quite well for adhesive removal.

Franmar industries sells Beeno and you can find a local distributor from their site.

There are also a number of citrus products used in the remediation process.

Had it tested. Inspector scraped it and sent it to a lab.

Anyone do the encapsulatoin thing? how did it go?

Lulusong,

Remidiation crews work really well. They will seal everything off as previously mentioned and ensure it's all gone. Bear in mind though, this stuff is only dangerous when it's friable. Basically it has to be broken up and become airborne. If you are covering it, it actually helps to retain it together thereby reducing the risk even further. Just a thought though. I understand the resell concern as well. Good luck. Oh.... It's not too cheap either.

Aidan-The company I consulted does use solvent...how else could they do this anyway?

When you say the solvent is absorbed into the slab, does that mean it leaves a smell? I don't like the sound of that...

Finally, if we do a floating, interlocking floor that doesn't require glue, is solvent still an issue?

Thanks, Aidan.

The recommended method to remove cutback, is wet scraping.

The solvent could still be an issue with the underlayment pad, or whatever surface is placed in contact with the slab.

Smell is definitely an issue when the solvent causes a reaction. It smells like vomit.

I would find out what solvent they use. When they did my floor there was not odor whatsoever.

At least some cutback dissolves in HOT water.

Sloyd, what's the name of this odorless solvent? I'll request it specifically.

Did you need to get an air quality check done afterwards?

Sorry if this is dupe post. I think last one disappeared.

I am pretty certain I have asbestos tile in my basement. Some came loose-- mostly intact. Other tiles remain in place. I see black mastic on the areas where tiles were removed. Can I some how encapsulate the floor as-is and install a new floor over it. Also, I have a small basement 550 square feet. To remove tile and black mastic the estimate I got form abatement company was $4,600.

I would cover the entire floor with two thick coats of polyurethane. Fill in any uneven areas with wood filler first. I found very old felt back vinyl in my kitchen (did not test it but pretty sure its asbestos) and that is what I did to encapsulate it. 10 gallons of it will run you about $250. Prepare to ventilate the area well, best to do this in summer. It will take approx. a month for it to fully cure then you can install new floor overtop.

They do have products for asbestos flooring encapsulation (just google it), or you could just float a wood or laminate floor on top of it. Dricore flooring is another option.

You really should encapsulate (seal) it first before you install new floor. Old flooring is past its lifespan and can become friable, releasing airborne fibers. Epoxy products (paint or sealer) work as well.

I currently live in Colorado Springs. I removed the tie and had tile and adhesive tested. Tile is negative for asbestos adhesive is positive. The cement floor looks as though it was painted black. I received several abatement bids, all in the area of $2,500.00 to abate 480 square feet. Can I cement over the adhesive containing asbestos and then paint the floor and live happily ever after? I do know to properly dispose of the tile.

I have the same situation as kbondrhit, but most of my tile is still intact. I have read articles about encapsulating with epoxy or polyurethane, but for concrete floors they also mentioned using self-leveling concrete. If a concrete floor is uneven because of adhesive residue or other problems it seems that self leveling concrete might be the easiest method. It is relatively easy to work with, and really does self level very well.

Does self-leveling concrete seem like a good product for sealing a cement floor, or are epoxy and polyurethane products also easy to use in a large area that may have imperfections (e.g., missing tile, leftover adhesive, etc.)?

Bruce

Self leveling concrete would be a better product for filling imperfections. The only concern is adhesion of the concrete (which is always difficult anyhow). Param is a system with a primer then the concrete adheres to it.

http://www.duraamen.com/blog/remove-asbestos-vct-tile-encapsulate-safer-cheaper/#.VoF0ZpqFNHg

We have two products that can be applied directly over VCT with tremendous adhesion and durability. Param is our self leveling concrete that can be applied at various thicknesses depending on your need. It is a custom solution. We can recommend thicknesses and processes to avoid the joints in tile from bleeding through. The basic installation process includes stripping the old wax followed by applying the prime coat that works with our Param self levelers. While the primer is still wet, the Param mix can be broadcast into the primer and brushed in. The result is a hard, textured finish. Then apply Param to create a new, smooth coating that encapsulates the tile.

Once complete the new floor can be dyed and sealed to be a decorative, wear surface or install, tile, hardwood or carpet on the new floor. The process is fairly quick, requiring only a few days with a significant cost and time savings.

The Param product looks what something that would work well for encapsulation, and it specifically mentions installation over VCT. However, the web site has no pricing and you must call them to find out more info. I'm suspicious that I will find out its a very expensive product.

I also looked at Home Depot today and they carry the LevelQuik self-leveling product. The instructions state that it will work on top of cut back adhesive or concrete as long as you use primer to ensure a bond, but it does not mention installation on top of VCT.

The other two products I've seen recommended are Ardex SD-F and Mapei Planipatch with PlaniPlus additive.

Bruce

We use HEPA shrouded diamond grinding systems to remove mastic on slab; this provides a clean, smooth and odor free finish ready for a new floor install.