'Adjust' or replace laminate counter?

17 years ago

We have an 11ft x 6ft (overlap in the corner, so really a 4ft butting into 11ft) "L" shaped countertop in my modular home built June 2007. No backsplash. There is 1/4" gap at back of sink, 1/8" gap in other places I thought a tile b/s could cover.

But in measuring the overhangs I realized that even with the 1/4" gap behind the sink, I only have 3/4" overhang in front, which is why I keep dripping water down the face! The overhang on that 11ft long leg of the "L" ranges from 7/8" near the range to 3/4" over the whole 36" sink base to almost an inch (15/16") to left of DW, where part of corner cabinet door is. The overhang on the short (6ft) leg of the L is 1 1/8" with only about 1/8" gap at the back. I figure since DH probably won't go for replacing 17ft of countertop with the exact same thing b/c of builder's mistake (and it's out of "warranty" - only had 1 yr for workmanship), I have to live with it until the laminate starts getting really scratched and icky, but try not to destroy the sink base. Although the cabinet boxes are particleboard, the drawers have solid sides, fronts and backs with dovetails and Blum Tandem Plus glides so we think they should last.

So I was wondering if it might be possible (or worthwhile) to unscrew the countertop, disconnect all the plumbing, take down the fridge cabinet and end panels, and try to slide the long leg forward 1/8" - 1/4" (and cut the short leg shorter at the fridge). Or maybe even just try to pivot it a little and maybe we won't have to cut it. I would just have a larger gap at the back that I could then cover with oak trim or backerboard and tile.

Or we could replace it - builder gave me $500 for a screw they put up through near the stove, I know it won't pay for the whole thing (I didn't notice the other issues at that time and used the $ for island) but would it be better than fussing with it?

Should I go back to the builder (who doesn't work with this factory anymore - in fact, I don't think he built a house at all last year so is probably out of business) and tell him about the uneven overhang, and the cabinet with the back corner broken out, even though the 1-yr warranty on workmanship is long over and I already took $ for this same section of countertop? I'm just thinking I'll get nowhere with that.

Or should I just trim out the existing gap, try not to drip too much and ruin the sink cabinet, and just plan on replacing all the countertops (roughly 67-68 sf) about 8-10 years from now?

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Comments (6)

ron6519
17 years ago
This was a half assed job. The front overhang should be uniformly about 1 1/2- 1 3/4".
Your builder remedy is long over
You can probably improve the look and function by adding a hardwood edging around the front and sides. Have it match the wood on the cabinets. This is a fairly low cost solution that should hold you over.
Ron
2ajsmama
Original Author
17 years ago
Everything in my house is this way. Some things we caught right away and they fixed, others they refused to fix, some (like this) we are just finding now. I was thinking about oak edging - but the water dripping down the front of the sink when I do dishes would damage that just as much as it would damage the cabinet. Sacrificial piece? And I don't want to do it on my island - which has radiused corners. Would it look strange to have oak edging on perimeter counters (front only - don't think we'd do sides where range slides in b/c then we'll have to cut) L only and not on the island?
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ron6519
17 years ago
The wood edge would be protected with multiple coats of a polyurethane. You would recoat as needed to protect the wood.
There is no solution which will replace a competantly made countertop. Everything that is done now is a compromise to minimize the obvious issues that exist currently.
Unless to have the skills to make a new counter, you do the best you can with the skill set you possess or the budget you have.
Ron
2ajsmama
Original Author
17 years ago
Not much of a budget - too many other things to fix/finish. I was just wondering if it would look strange to have wood (with mitred returns at range so we don't have to pull off that long piece to cut it shorter and fit wood on the side) on front of perimeter cabinets and not on island. Not even the flat front in the dropped center of the island.

I'm finishing oak sidesplashes for the center of the island so they'll look like the sides of the end cabinets (cover the particleboard). Finishing/refinishing is in my skill set. Laminate isn't (yet), though I think I could handle straight edges. And I returned the sheet I had ordered for the island last year after I found someone who would do the radiused corners for me! Wish I had noticed this problem then (or earlier).
annzgw
17 years ago
I'm curious......is the overhang 3/4" from the front of drawers/doors that are below the sink, or 3/4" from the face of the cabinet? I know you said the water drips down the face of the cabinet but I'm trying to visualize the problem correctly.
2ajsmama
Original Author
17 years ago
It's 3/4" from the face so flush with the false drawer front and the doors. I'm just a slob when it comes to washing or rinsing broiler pans, cookie sheets, etc. and always end up with water on front edge of sink that drips down right onto the false front and the tops of the doors if I don't stick my belly up against the counter right away and get it with my shirt while my hands are full. I bought a plastic over-the-door hook and slipped it over the false front to keep a towel right there I can grab (ds can reach it too and doesn't go dripping over to the range to get towel after washing hands or fruit).