But don't read it if you've already finished!
I got to page two: don't put in a potfiller, sorry, already done
and page three: Appliances should be 14% of your budget, mine reached 30% (d*mn you Lacanche!) and may be higher, I am too afraid to actually total up all my receipts, which are overflowing in a manilla envelope taped to my office door. I could read no further. Actually, if I had read it through before my remodel, i would most likely have done everything the same.

I thought it was very helpful! Thanks!

Nice read. I was a little dismayed at "the easiest way to save big," though: Keep your old layout, don't move plumbing, etc. This IS excellent advice when it's already a good layout.

So many are not, though. When those belong to people anxious to save their budget for the exciting shopping spree, it's advice for how to blow a lot of money on a bad remodel.

Gigi, I hope you enjoy that kitchen a lot!

As for me, I'm the conservative who's been posting on the "low end" thread. I'm the aged retiree with the even more aged parent who's looking at the costs of the parent's possible move to nursing home and gagging. Just remember that nursing homes are roughly $6000 to $9000 per month. Be sure to bank plenty of your spending money; you have no idea when you'll really really need it, and that might be in an emergency moment when a fancy house is an illiquid asset.

As for that article, I especially like the "infrastructure" comment--that's what I often mention when responding to a posting. Spend the money on the layout, the plumbing and the electrical and such. Beams are a really good thing. So are dry attics. Better than fancy refrigerators.

OT, but florantha, consult an attorney who specializes in elder care. There are a lot of things you can do prior to nursing home so your out of pocket costs are very affordable.

I haven't read the article yet. I will but it's probably too late. I'm having some major "what have I done" moments today.

That was very interesting and I picked up a few ideas. Thanks for posting it.

Most items were pretty good...but...

Second sink Place it outside of the main cooking and cleanup zone so that a second chef can prep food, wash hands for dinner, or bartend during parties.

Somewhat disagree: If you intend for the sink to be a prep sink, it should be in the Prep Zone and fairly close to the Cooking Zone. If you want it to be a sink for "outsiders" to use, then I agree. Bar-tending, etc. should be outside all three of the primary work zones (Prep, Cooking, Cleanup). The second chef can use the cleanup sink (ditto for someone wanting to wash hands).

Allocating Project Costs

Where's the 10% (at least) for "surprises"?!

Keep your current layout.

I agree with Rosie! It seems that most kitchens designed by builders or architects are not very functional, so when remodeling you want to fix the functional issues - first. (They even say this on a later slide!) Just replacing cabinets is a waste of money unless the layout is very good OR you don't cook!

Blind Corners: Half-Moon Lazy Susan
Blind Corners: Double Sliding Shelves
Blind Corners: Pull-Out Shelves

IMHO, avoid blind corners if at all possible. They are generally less useful than corner susans or drawers, waste more space, and generally the blind corner hardware is far less reliable/durable than susans or drawers.

Drawers Versus Rollout Trays

It's rare that ROTS are better than drawers - even for small items - use a shallow drawer. Drawer bases usually come in 3 and 4 drawer configurations - some manufacturers even have 2 and 5 drawers.

I agree ROTS are easier for retrofitting, though.

The Pros (and Cons) of a Pro-Grade Range
[Con] Needs a 10-inch duct (versus the usual 7-inch) for a high-power vent hood to whisk away that extra heat.

Most decent vent hoods these days require an 8" to 10" duct, gone are the days of 4" to 7" ducts.

You've also got to match the hood to the range, both in terms of dimensions (a 30-inch range needs a 30-inch hood)

Actually, 6" wider than the cooking surface and at least 24" deep is much better. If in an island or peninsula, then at least 6" wider and 27" deep is needed.

Note that in most cases the power needed for venting is dependent more on how/what you cook than the cooking appliance you are using! Smoke/excessive steam/grease/fumes/etc. all require stronger cfms - regardless of gas (pro or not), induction, or regular electric.

Their estimate for LED undercounter lights is a little high--I got mine on Ebay, two 19" strips for $22. Of course, DH still hasn't installed them......................

Remind yourself who the originator of article is and what their target audience is...this is PBS's "This Old House" and they're very often looking at rehabbing unique spaces that have tremendous needs but they also throw in a few ringers that are more common. For every 1940s house with an amateur 1970s redo to undo, there's an 18th century house needing a whole new kitchen implant on the back side for modernization. Quite a span of needs.

Thanks for this, florantha. I'm just starting and find this helpful (btw, we're able to keep most of the basic layout as it works so well). Need to get my layout up soon on kitchen forum for analysis and advise.

bump