why don't you go to google, put this title into their serch engine and look through the web sites, I am betting there is a manuel and information that you can use. Rene

Rene,
that is a very good question.
I went to google,yahoo and some other search engines.
The only thing that I found were manuals for sale that cost more than what I paid for the machine and cabinet combined. I am not a collector of these machines and have virtually no knowledge at all when it comes to them. I like to sew and such for fun, when it starts to cost more money than I am willing to spend, it takes the fun away from it and ceases to be enjoyable.Now, that being said. If worse comes to worse. I will track down a manual,carry the machine around in my car from sewing shop to sewing shop,or, if I get fed up enough at the machine, I will simply burn the cabinet for firewood and sell the machine for scrap iron. My decision on what I do with the machine, will depend on how bad my day is at the time.
David

OK,
just as an update. I got the machine to work.
The needle goes in sideways. Can you believe it?
It now actually sews. I am pretty positive that I do not have the machine threaded correctly as my stitches do not look proper. Once again I will ask, does anyone know of where I can get a picture of a machine similar to this one so as to be able to know how to route the upper thread.
I don't want to buy a manual. I'm stingy.
I just want to know how the thread is routed.
The rest, I figured out on my own.

I just got one of these machines and it came with a small manual. Are you still in need of this information??

Try this website it has machine threading diagrams. I don't know if you will find your machine on there. Colleen

Here is a link that might be useful: Machine threading

Repairman told me 75% of the calls he get for stitches not being picked up is because the thread is going in the wrong side. that, plus the needle flat spot is different in each of my machines.Singer flat spot goes to the left, Kenmore goes to back, not sure of the Wards, just got it today, havent figgered out what yr it is; it's the reversible rotary, rough brown finish.

I havent gone thru all my 8 machines because i am moving, and some have just shown up on craigslist. I will have pleanty of room in Virginia to set up a room to get them working.

All of the machines are The Heavy Duty stichers (silk to leather). My intent is to set up a small tailor shop, with machines that have been modified so a person with a handicap can operate it. I want to start off designing clothes for veterans with amputations - then teach the amputees (that want something to do) how to make various uniforms that fit a person missing a limb.
From there, I hope to expand it to making Vet's "after military" clothing for the same vets, BY VETS.
God Bless
ButchJ

ButchJ

OK, I collect machines made by National (who made your Reversew, not Eldredge, which ceased to exist in the 1890s.) Go to the link below and check out the threading diagram there. Be sure to take a wrap around the tension--it's a pulley system, not the usual pair of disks that squeeze the thread.

Annie

Here is a link that might be useful: Reversew Threading

Hello Damascus Annie,
I just purchased a National Rotary machine. It clearly says "National Rotary" on it, but looks exactly like a Damascus. The decals are, of course different. She is my 7th antique sewing machine, 3 of which have gone on to new homes, and by far my favorite. I cannot get over that a machine of that vintage doesn't even need an assist to get her going. I've put pictures of her up on my website: (below). Might she be an unbadged Damascus? Was she made in the same time frame? I cannot get over how well she stitches, compared to my Singers of that same era. Hands down the best of the lot. My only regret is that I have a hemstitcher for this type of foot attachment, but no throat plate. I'm thinking of trying to make one out of plastex.
I'm just thrilled with this machine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pics of National Rotary

It's a typical National Rotary of the period--exactly the same as the badged machines like the Damascus or my own Western Electric. Can you send me the serial number (found on a little raised plaque at the base of the upright post of the machine.) I'm collecting serial numbers and adding them to my on-going data base which hopefully will someday allow us to accurately date National-made machines. I might have a spare hemstitcher plate floating around in all my spare attachment sets.

Annie

Oh, that would be so wonderful if you could!

Now I have another question for you. I'm having a bit of problem with my bobbin tension - way too much. After a bit of investigation, I see 2 potential problems. One is on the very botton of the rotary hook, the inside feels rough. I couldn't see how to take the bobbin assembly apart so that I could see better. I cannot tell if it is grime or rust or scratches. Also, there is a spot on the outside of the bobbin case that is pretty dinged up. It looks like it has been banged with a needle often enough to cause this. but since I see it clearly, I think I can polish this out.

Any thoughts on that bobbin hook?
Thanks so much
Donna

Well, I'm sure the whole bobbin area's going to need a thorough cleaning after all these years, so I'd try to to scrub it out--0000 steel wool works pretty well for this. Do that first.

Now, do you have a threading diagram? These things thread REALLY strangely. I'm including the link to the threading diagram again. Make sure to take a wrap around the tension disks ("T" in the diagram.) They are actually a little pulley so they won't do anything at all if the thread's not wrapped around them.

Next, make sure that there's no lint or thread caught under the spring on the bobbin case. If none of this has helped, here's what the manual suggests:
First, try tightening the top tension, 1/4 turn at a time to the right. Repeat for at least one complete revolution (4 tries) before adjusting the bobbin tension. Sew a test seam after EVERY adjustment.

Turn the screw on the bobbin case a 1/4 turn to the left to loosen it a bit. You can repeat this a couple of times and if it doesn't do the trick, go back and try tightening the top tension a couple more times. It's a putzy business adjusting the tension on one of these old machines but the good news is that they hold tension well once you get it set correctly.

Annie

Here is a link that might be useful: Nat'l Rotary Threading diagram

Thanks again. I will be messing around with it. It just runs so smoothly and so fast! I did a print screen and saved the pic of the threading diagram. I'm having trouble seeing the serial number, but I'll be sure to get it to you when I can read it. (I think maybe that needs a little cleanup too).

I see yours is mounted & used as a treadle. But honestly this little National motor is so powerful and precise. I kind of hate to mess with it. I have a Singer 66 treadle, cabinet and all. Maybe someday I'll run across another National or Damascus that IS a treadle. I'd snap it up!

That 2 spool machine must be a treasure too. I am a professional embroiderer and I've often wondered why they didn't put a bigger bobbin in there. Here is is a state-of-the-art machine (Tajima) and you have to stop every few garments and put in a new bobbin.

I guess I'm gong to have to order that manual for this Rotary. It is actually going to cost me more than the machine did! I'll be sure to add the serial number when I can read it.
Donna

These models were sold as treadles, portable electrics and later as cabinet electrics. I haven't done a recent count, but I think I have about 10 rotaries from different eras, plus around 40 machines representing National's other models. Most are just "orphan" heads, some are handcranks, some treadles, some portable electrics and a couple of cabinet electrics. I only use the "people-powered" models though.

Annie

Hello Damascus Annie
After a lot of washing and fingernail action, I was finally able to read most of the serial number. But the first (and probably most important) character is still obscure. It is either 207341 or Z07341. There is a big black blob over the top of the 2 or Z that I cannot seem to remove. If I were betting, I'd say 2 - it might be my imagination, but I believe I see a hint if a curve there.
Thanks for all your help,
Donna

It's most likely a 2. Number prefixes were used, but I've never seen a Z, only A,B and C which seemed to come later in the production history. Your number fits in between 1924-1927, but I can't get any closer than that. It is consistent with the style of machine. Thanks for the info! Every little bit helps.

Annie

Hi Annie,
Here I am asking information again.
I have a chance to buy a Davis VF head. The shuttle is missing. How hard will it be to get one and is your Davis VF a shuttle type? (It appears to be from the bobbin winder) Also does it take special needles? I saw some advertised once - and they were super high $$12.00 for only 2!

This one appears to be a #2, guessing from the pics on ISMACS. Here is the pic the person who is selling sent to me http://www.germanangora.net/ssaved/nationa/
Then click on "davis.jpg"
Thanks for any advice you can offer!

Here is a link that might be useful: Sewing machines

The Davis Vertical Feeds are all shuttle machines. I have a spare shuttle that I'd be willing to sell. I couldn't get the link to the machine to work. I can't tell you for sure if this one would require the Davis Long needles or a regular 15 x 1 without seeing the machine. Mine takes a regular needle. I do have the longs available too, but as you noticed they are expensive. I have original Boye needle tubes with three needles per tube and I sell them for $20/tube.

Annie

I left a letter off the URL,
it is http://www.germanangora.net/ssaved/national/

Here is a link that might be useful: sewing machines

Oh, I heard back from the seller, and she says that the shuttle is present! Thank goodness. Also it is the type that uses regular needles, so I dodged a bullet there too.
Thanks so much. Looks like everything is going well. Only one bobbin, but I hope that Cindy Peters in MN can help me there - she had them for the National Rotary.

This machine was "sort of" cleaned by oiling it and then running it a lot. She says it still needs tension work, so I'll be working on that. I'm pretty excited to be getting this.

Thanks so much!
Donna

They are great machines! I love my DVF, even though her enamel finish is nearly all gone. She's a workhorse machine and absolutely the best for things like quilt bindings and sewing flannel.

Annie

I'm looking for an old Montgomery Wards sewing machine manual. I don't know if it's the same type as described here. The Model#: E 05 NS-1150. It's very simple, but heavy & looks to be from the 1940's. The threading is very strange...I think it might be the same as the above link shows...Also, I put a standard needle in it, but it doesn't even draw up the thread, and I'm not sure if it takes a special needs. Can anyone help?? Thanks so much! What a great forum!

I answered you in the antique forum, but the added detail you've provided here makes me think that you have a National Rotary--does it have round bobbins? If so, it's definitely a rotary. Scooch the needle down a smidge, it takes a slightly longer needle than modern machines, but it will sew just fine with them if you lower them about 1/32 of an inch. I've been using National rotaries this way for over 17 years.

You can get a manual from Cindy Peters at stitchesintime@earthlink.net

Annie

Thanks so much, Annie! Yes, it has round bobbins....Is a National Rotary the same as a Supreme reversible? After studying the photo of one on the threading link carefully, it's definitely the same machine...

Can anyone tell me some of the ins & outs of using this machine? I bought it mostly to sew chenille because the old dressmaker I have won't sew anything heavy....Any stories or suggestions? Should I have it cleaned and oiled too? Thanks so much you all, again! Pat

National is the name of the company that made the machine, Rotary is the model. "Supreme Reversible" was added to the name when the reverse stitching capability was added to the machines.

Clean it by getting any lint out of the bobbin area and the feed dogs. Oil any little holes you can find, including those on the underside of the machine and you should be good to go. If you take it to a sewing machine repair shop, they'll tell you it's too old to work, so don't waste your time doing that!

Annie

Thanks so much, Annie! I didn't get any answer on my manual request, but I know there are several for sale on the net, so I will hunt again! Many blessings, Pat

I have the instuction book and all of the extras for the wards supreme reversible rotary sewing machine...I had to join this site that I just happened to surf across, to tell you...Terrie

You can get a manual from Cindy Peters at stitchesintime@earthlink.net, Cindy was traveling about the time you originally posted, but she is back home now. Or take up Terrie on her offer.

Annie

I have an older [plain brownish] cast iron Montgomery Ward sewing machine in a stand-up cabinet; with the orginal Instruction Book EXP. B.T. (Long Shuttle) Electric Sewing Machine and the original Montogmery Ward Warranty for first year and another 19 years. The serial number on my machine is 3570571 (for Annie's records). The only tihng that looks like a date on the warrantly is printed on the front bottom left side "COPR. A. GOES 9-20-1940 M.W."

By the serial number I am just guessing that it was manufactored in 1935 or is a 1935 model and was shipped to Montgomery Wards and sold on 9-20-1940.

If anyone has a better guess or can tell me something more just by the serial number I would greatly appreciate your input.

Kate

Ok,I THINK the date you found is just the printer's date for the certificate--is it in really tiny print? The serial number fits in around 1949. Is there any chance you could post a picture of it somewhere or e-mail me off-list and send me a picture? If I can see the M-Wards logo on the machine, that can help me date it because M-W changed that quite frequently. I'm now collecting their catalogs to help me determine when they were selling the different models and cabinets and what logos where used when. It's a long, on-going process working out dates for National sewing machines!

Back to your machine. It's a model called an "Expert BT Vibrator" and it's a 3/4 sized portable. The matte finish was popular at this time, because it was cheap to apply. Collectors call it a "godzilla" finish.

Annie

Hi Annie,

Thank you for your information. It was really interesting and I truly enjoy learning more about my little godzilla. "Godzilla" is the perfect name for the finish! What it lacks in beauty - it makes up for it in sturdiness. The M.W. logo is also cast iron - screwed on the front - I can probably take it off and scan it for you - but I don't know where to send it or where to post it - if there is somewhere I can download it for you let me know. I'll take some pictures, but I'll have to do it the old fashioned way -take the film in and get it developed, so that will take a little longer.

There's something else I didn't mention. The serial number I gave you is under the front shuttle slide, but on the back motor there is a plaque that says Model E and it also has some numbers. I just presume it has something to do with Montgomery Ward's.

Oh, don't worry about it, it's not that big of a deal.

Annie

Hi Annie,

I bought a M-W at a yard sale, it came with instruction manuel and attachments it works. The serial number for your records is 2250166. This machine needs cleaning but not sure how to clean it without doing any damage to it. I woud like to know what year this model is can you help?

Hi there! Not sure if anyone will get this, but I thought I'd try! I have a National rotary machine inside a cherry wood cabinet, Model R40, that I'm trying to sell.

I have no idea what year it is though, and since I know little-to-nothing about sewing machines, I have no clue where to find the serial number! I found 2 patenting information numbers on a metal plate below the needle...is that it? Here's a link to my Craigslist ad where you can see photos.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/clt/2226780858.html

The machine's got all its original parts and is in great shape! I just can't keep it because I have to move. Any information you could tell me about this machine would be incredible.

Here is a link that might be useful: Craigslist Ad with photos

Wondering if anyone can help me.
Was cleaning out an old garage in Bermuda and found an old National Sewing machine. It looks identical to the Eldredge E--Expert B.T.Vibrator picture I saw on the internet except it just says National on it.
Can anyone help with finding the serial number, age and worth of this item?

Anyone know the value of this machine.Mine looks almost brand new.Someone was actually going to throw this away

Older straight stitch electric sewing machines have almost no monetary value. There are a very few exceptions like Singer Featherweights. But most of the rest will yield $25 or less. They are simply tooooo common, and there are very few of us sewing machine collectors on this planet.