Great questions. I'm looking forward to hear some comments too.

me too!

I am interested in hearing about this too. But in my honest opinion, every part of the kitchen is a matter of taste.

If larger tiles will involve many cuts that interrupt the layout, I would go with smaller tiles.

Both small mosaics and larger tiles will read rather "uniformly" if the grout is closely matched to the tile.The most uniform is a large piece of something: stone, solid surface, wood, glass, etc.

Flooring does not have to shape backsplash choices except to the extent that near matches that don't quite match end up the least successful I think. I think it is also problematic to use the exact same tile for the backsplash. The size should be smaller and the layout vary, I think.

The backsplash should reference something, it doesn't have to be from the countertop material. It could relate to cabinet color, wall color, floor color or be something completely different. It could be a primary accent color that is in turn picked up by other elements.

I think either a very large format (single sheet of material) or very small format (mosaics) work in smaller kitchens where various sizes can work in a large kitchen.

In contrast, an extremely detailed backsplash, such as hand cut glass tile murals by Bizzaza, Sicis, etc. could be a spectacular element in a small backsplash, but may overwhelm a large kitchen.

I think it is hard to say what is the #1 disappointment, but I can come up with two:

1) Forgetting to plan outlets and switches so that they don't interrupt (or minimally interrupt) the backsplash as a whole, or particularly a ruin a pattern layout in the backsplash.

2) This is a matter of personal taste, but for me:

Planning the backsplash as if the counters will be empty. Making it too complex, too many elements, too many accents. There will be things on the counter that cover parts of it up, the "sense" of the layout could be lost. I think when it comes to current backsplash design, people try "to shove ten pounds of c rap into a five-pound bag", so to speak.

Well, if you've seen all the BS threads, you've probably seen the most frequently-offered advice: Wait.

Try out different backsplashes after your cabinets, flooring, countertop, lighting and even tschotschkes are in place. In most cases, there's very little that has to wait until after the backsplash is installed, so it can be pretty much the last thing.

Understandably, that advice doesn't always work for people whose favorite tile has a nine-week lead time, nor is it necessary for designers like palimpsest, but it's a useful tactic to try, by most accounts.

I'm not a designer, but this is something I've noticed since becoming TKO. I think it's hard to pair a busy backsplash with a busy granite and have it look good. I think one of the things that made 1970s kitchens so laughable was that there was too much going on. Too much color. Too much texture. Too much detail. Though it must have looked good in the moment, it didn't wear well. I wonder whether people who pair a busy backsplash with a busy granite are getting an effect that will be considered laughable in 20 years. Plus, when permanent features are that busy, then the room looks cluttered even when the countertops are empty.

Awesome feedback, thank you. lazygardens: "imported elf spit?" too funny...but point well-taken.

palimpsest: such in-depth advice...thank you for your time to share that. The "near match" really hit home for me, as I'm veering away from chiaro tumbled for that very reason: goes great with everything but white tile floors..white and cream...not so much!

Marcolo's advice is toughest to take in our 24/7 online world...I have Tile Shop bookmarked and my credit card at the ready...I just want the kitchen done!!! But to his point, when I was delayed 5 weeks waiting on a minor cabinet modification that affected spacing, and while I'm still waiting on the last of lighting to come in, this extra time ended up being for the best, as I've had time to think more about BS impact.

mcmjilly: I have seen gorgeous high-movement granite paired with equally gorgeous, but highly-intricate bs. I'm sure there are many who love it, but I always have this unsettled, almost stressed-out feeling spending time in a room like that...tough on the senses after a long workday.
(Would you consider a consistent granite with specks - like black galaxy - a busy granite?)

I know it's unusual but I work by the Rococo Rule: pick the tile first. (Think of it like the security of eating a chocolate dessert first). I totally disagree with the advice to wait. As a designer I feel it's an important element of a kitchen -- one that can truly be transformative -- and not an afterthought to be matched up.

As we all know, these opinions are subjective but mine are very firm in this regard. Over and over again I see people stuck with granite or flooring or a color scheme that is difficult to match up with just the right size, shape and texture of tile. It's a problem precisely because it is not an part of thinking about the the overall kitchen from the beginning.

Now to the questions:

**In general, when choosing tile sizes, when is it better to go larger vs smaller? What effect is created w/one vs other?

Scale is relative size. Getting the tile size right and in proportion is key. The reason subways work in most kitchens is because they are medium size -- neither small nor large and they are usually plain. People forget that tile creates its own pattern which can be competitive with other surfaces. And some tiles have raised or surface patterns -- which doubles the effect. When in doubt, I feel it's more effective to go smaller rather than larger. Larger tiles can be (again, depending on spaces) due to the cuts. Think about a bit piece of tile with a corner taken out -- much more visible than something smaller. Few have a perfectly rectangular space without any variation or a horizontal that large tile fits perfectly (of course, if you do I say go for it).

**How should flooring shape BS choices?

I don't feel the floor and the backsplash have a critical relationship. The backsplash is a vertical surface that immediately draws the eye whereas the floor is horizontal. How often do you see the same tile, or a coordinating pattern, used on a floor and backsplash? Light hits them differently.

**Should BS usually pull from or match something in counter?

Matching a ceramic product to natural stone or another material is a challenge. IMO wood counters are easiest and most forgiving. This is one reason architects and designers often use stone backsplashes or very simple tile. It's very easy for those two to compete.

**What BS designs work better for smaller kitchens? Larger?

I don't think there's a generalization on that. I was in a 5 x 7 studio apt kitchen yesterday doing a redesign and trying to figure out how to work in a dishwasher for the owner. It's such a tiny space -- 24" sink, 18" stove, 28" fridge. Yet I could definitely see large tiles on that splash -- or even a solid slab.

**What do you think is the #1 most common mistake people make choosing a BS that ends up disappointing them later? (That alone would be invaluable advice!)

Because splashes are often left until last, and for many reasons outlined above, the tile search becomes overwhelming, or you get something close but you're not sure, or you find something you like but when it goes up (like paint!) it looks different vertically it in the light etc. Or you've gone with very active stone which can kill tile. Or, too much pattern, too matte or too closely matched (dull). Wrong grout color can create a nasty surprise and often the grout question is popped at the last minute with no change to see a sample of the dried grout color in advance.

Also, at the end of a job -- as most of us know -- the budget is used up so there's inevitably a price squeeze or a really long wait (I've seen years on this board). You may find the perfect tile but the budget for it is gone, or something else happens (braces, college, anniversary trips -- life).

If you want a fabulous splash, the best insurance is to build the cost of the tile into the overall budget from the beginning. Look at tile very early in the shopping process -- even before cabinets. Think of the splash and cabinets as the mom and dad and the counter as the kid. Take the tile, counter and cabinet color samples to the paint store early on, too, and let it marinate so it's not another forced decision.

The kitchen in my house was inspired by tile stoves. I found four different colors and did a mixed backsplash. It's open to all the other first-floor rooms and, in the end, the color scheme flowed from there. I don't feel the kitchen should look like it was assembled elsewhere and backed up to the house. They should support each other.

In regard to:

"Forgetting to plan outlets and switches so that they don't interrupt (or minimally interrupt) the backsplash as a whole, or particularly a ruin a pattern layout in the backsplash."

How does one accomplish this when the electric is roughed in early and the backsplash is being done later? Is there a "typical height" or position to help avoid problems?

I had a meeting with my architect today and she had drawn an outlet close to the edge of the wall. I asked her to move it closer to the middle of the wall because I don't want to trail cords from things like griddles across the counter. I want to plonk my nut chopper or mixer down in the middle of the counter and have the outlet right there. I'll be glad to listen to other opinions. We plan to do something fun with the tile above the sink and stove. but my first goal in my totally brand new kitchen is FUNCTION.

At the time that we were making our plans, there were few niche treatments over ranges being shown on the GW. To me this is a very helpful feature and one which overrides a decorative design backsplash if you're making a working kitchen. If you plan to make a niche, put it in the blueprints from the beginning so you don't have to redo the wallboard and studs. Sadder but wiser advice.

Its not always easy.

In one project we planned for 39". A horizontal nailer was put in the framing so the boxes could be mounted at various positions along a line 39" above the Finished floor, which left room for a 3" subway tile below.

We also left a loop of wire for each box so it could be moved a bit. And, we drywalled over this horizontal section with a piece that could be removed if the outlets needed to be repositioned. (and they did).

Once we started laying out the tile (dry, with guidelines) we figured exactly where each box would fit against one vertical and between two horizontal groutlines and shifted them, changed or patched the drywall.

Its extra work.

The other think you can do is get them completely within on large tile.

If you have a pattern you should at least make sure they don't interrupt or overlap strangely into a feature like a chair rail or accent strip. A stripe doesn't look so great with random patches taken out of it. Same with a border feature.

Finally make sure there are no light switches or outlets half in half out of backsplash at the perimeter.

Many times I will see a "help me" post with a tight view of a backsplash sample board, a few inches of the bottom part of the cabinet and small run of counter. The poster always asks "How does this look?".

Many people concentrate on the color matching and they don't realize that no one actually views the backsplash from that perspective. The backsplash has to work with the entire kitchen. Depending on the layout, it may also have to work with the dining room, family room, keeping room, whatever. The backsplash view from 12 inches away is entirely different than the backsplash viewed within the context of the entire room.

"Planning the backsplash as if the counters will be empty. Making it too complex, too many elements, too many accents. There will be things on the counter that cover parts of it up, the "sense" of the layout could be lost. I think when it comes to current backsplash design, people try "to shove ten pounds of c rap into a five-pound bag", so to speak"

Couldn't have said it better myself!

If you want anything fancy for your BS where electrical outlets may become a problem, have the outlets under the cabinets, that's what we did.

We did undercabinet outlets too, and they worked great. No tile cuts for outlets! why spend all that money on nice tile only to have it interrupted. That being said, if you need them on the backsplash, I would put them horizontally close to the countertop if that is allowed by code. You can always stick something in front of it there.

Thanks all for a wonderful thread -- to kitchennovice for asking and to everyone else for answering!

Becky

I forgot to add I usually recommend both outlet positions. High and hidden under upper cabinets for occasional plugins and low for things kept plugged in when you don't want to see dangling cords.

Thank you again to all contributors- can only imagine how many wasted dollars and visual mistakes you're preventing by taking time to write. Hopefully, this thread comes up in google weeks or months from now when someone does a BS search, so non-GW members can benefit from this advice too.

It's really tough to find common-sense advice online about backsplashes - I see tons of product sales spiels or superficial noise (choose a color that's pleasing to you, consider all the wonderful options out there, blah blah blah".) Basically useless. Nothing as valuable as what I'm reading here.

Rococogurl - I'm afraid I definitely broke your rule! Lots of time spent on cabs, counters, upfront. Thanks for a particularly in-depth contribution.

Deee:I am dealing with exactly the challenge you mention. This BS can be seen by entire open LR/DR layout. Hard enough coordinating a BS to kitchen elements, let alone most of house. Next house, no open layouts!

Are there any kind of design rules that should be followed regarding mixing lines? For example, if you have long, vertical bar pulls on the upper cabinets, would it look strange to have horizontal tiles on the backsplash?

I hope not as I've got that exact situation! I've got oversized bar pulls up top and a strongly horizontal backsplash.

Here is a link that might be useful: More pictures here.

Christina, that is such a lovely kitchen

My question is where should you stop the backsplash if the counter runs against a perpendicular wall. Should you stop at the cabinet edge? Or the counter edge? Or don't do the perpendicular wall at all? I'm referring to a backsplash that runs from the counter up to the cabinet, not a 4" backsplash

Such good thoughts! I followed Pal's genius advice on outlet placement: 2 down low outlets for the coffee pot and the toaster (they are always on the counter) so no hanging cords and the rest are under-cabinet. I am an outlier on backsplashes, I think that space is so weird and awkward that I never am tempted to call attention to it. When we were doing our kitchen, I wanted the BS to disappear - so we did a full slab BS of our quartzite counters and it gives a feeling of seamlessness that I really like.

marcarr

"My question is where should you stop the backsplash if the counter runs against a perpendicular wall. Should you stop at the cabinet edge? Or the counter edge? Or don't do the perpendicular wall at all? I'm referring to a backsplash that runs from the counter up to the cabinet, not a 4" backsplash"

I would also like to know the answer to this one.

https://www.houzz.com/magazine/where-to-start-and-stop-your-backsplash-stsetivw-vs~86843211

Just found this, 13 years after the post was created, and wanted to say thank you to the poster and everyone who contributed. Your knowledge has helped this overwhelmed backsplash hunting new homeowner!