I am hoping Childstar is still out there.... I have a T&S model 645. It always used to sew over pins but now it's touchy. I hit a pin yesterday and broke the needle and now the needle won't go into the bobbin at all. Is this a machine with plastic gears and I'm looking at replacement or is there an adjustment I could do? L Rogers

I think when you broke the needle, you shattered a gear.. That is the most common way the gears will break. If you love the machine ( That one will do "speed basting" with the #23 cam ), the gears can easily be replaced. I would replace all of them at once ( The horizontal gear is sold nylon and never breaks ), but all the others had "planned obsolescence" by adding polyethylene to the nylon gears.. Nylon is great in it's pure form, but adding another ingredient will cause it to break down in time. Now, how to find a good repair person.. Hmmm, that is the quandary.. And not so expensive. Tandrepair.com is the best source of gears in my opinion.. You may want to do what I did and get the repair manual and do it yourself. the tools are minimal, just an allan wrench and some time..

The best of luck, Richard

wow been long time i looked again and was wrong on the year my machine was made it was made in 66 here is the number AP 470604, also just downloaded the manual so hopefully i can sew again now that i know the proper technique for the bobbin. now if i could get some new bobbins, does anyone know who has them in stock , clear with white circles.

Andrew, ( I just noticed all my "typos" )... The bobbins should be easy to find on Ebay. I used to buy them at Hancocks but they went out of business. Joann's should have them. Try not to buy any with the "white bottom section". Somehow the all clear bobbins are better. Remember never to use one that has chipped edges, you will have skipped stitches....

I just found this site and am trying to get a 759 zig zag T & S working properly. I've researched it to the point that I know that it was built in Dec 1970. (We got it for the sewing table and the machine was included.) So far almost everything works. It came with the fashion dics and that is my issue. I believe that it is the needle position follower arm for the fashion cam might be missing it's spring or return mechanism. It will only sew partial fashion disc patterns but it will do a zig zag with some coaxing. As I took the top off to watch what was going on, the release lever pushes against the black arm, but then then the black arm doesn't retract to follow the secondary portion of the fashion disc.

The other issue is threading the bobbin...(imagine that, I've read all the comments here). The problem that I am having is that the position bracket doesn't want to hold the bobbin case in it's place (only when I am trying to thread the bobbin.)

My straight line sewing is great and I have good tension. I'm sure it's just a matter of simple adjustments that I am missing. I wish these were as easy to fix as my 66-16.

Oops I meant to say its a 758

Andrew, I just found them on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Singer-Touch-Sew-Bobbins-163131/dp/B002F03CJ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473854270&sr=8-1&keywords=singer+bobbins+touch+and+sew

Just got a touch and sew from yardsale. it's from 1960's. Not sure of model number but it's all metal. The part that holds the bobbin case doesn't move when I paddle. Not sure if it's worth to spend over $100 to have it fixed. It's called timing something, hook & feed...

Thanks.

The only Touch and Sew worth having is either the #600-603 or 600E-603E machines with metal gears. Those were made between 1963 and 1965. You have a newer machine with plastic gears and your hook gear is broken. If you had purchased it and sewn with it and loved it, I would say fix it. Otherwise it may be a consideration as far as spending the money to have the gears replaced. Some repair people do not enjoy working on the Touch and Sew machines and replacing the gears will run at least $200.00......

Thanks! It's delux zag zig 626. Found a repair ticket. It's tuned & oiled & gears replaced in 2009. It wasn't used after that until now.

Hello,

My GF is looking for a sewing machine and I saw this for sale locally. I know NOTHING about sewing or sewing machines lol, so I was hoping for some insight! Is this machine worth looking at? Is the price inline with what these are worth? I was thinking about getting this for her if it is a decent / dependable model. Thanks so much for the help!

I have this machine - it was my mom's. That seems to be a very reasonable price considering that it's been serviced. It is one of the T&S's with metal gears. Make sure it includes all of the accessories. My mother sewed everything from my wedding dress to denim slipcovers on this machine. When it was about 30 years old I did have to buy her a new foot pedal.

Ok. I have no idea what accessories should even be included but it appears to have a couple small boxes full of stuff and the owner's manual. Thank you for your input!

Yeah, I would grab that machine for $50. It's a steal! Looks like there's accessories included and you can find more on Ebay at any rate. It's worth $50 even with no accessories. It'll go fast.

Hello, I will put my "two cents" in.. The 600E was the last "well made" Singer machine produced from late 1964- early 1966. Not all of them were "created equally". Toward the end of the production run in late 1965, they started cheapening the quality. The cam stack became plastic, the motor no longer had a ballbearing and self tapping screws were used in place of tapped threads. Basically nothing is "better made" in time, it is always made more cheaply. The early production run models are indeed better, but you cannot tell simply by visually looking at the machine. One person on this site claimed "Singer worked out the flaws and remedied them"- wrong, they were made with much more plastic, and much more easily broken. I have gotten perhaps 20 of them on Ebay and the sellers claimed they "worked".. ( They plugged it in and the motor ran). That is a complicated machine mechanically and sometimes daunting for someone unaccustomed to using a machine of that type. When Singer introduced those machines, they included lessons with the purchase and it seems that few people took advantage of them. The main problem is that either a husband or repairman butchered some of the machines. As a result, and out of frustration, I bought the repair manual to learn how to fix and adjust them. It can easily take more than an entire day to adjust them well ( not just cleaning and oiling ). The main issue is the needle center position is almost never correct and it favors either the right or left, making sewing less than perfect. Another common issue is that the tension is harder to reset ( often they are botched and need the upper system and bobbin case position readjusted ). The bobbin case has no tension spring and relies on the tension of the lever that holds the bobbin in place to provide tension. The bobbin case must also "float" properly as well. I have had to use as many as 4 machines to construct one working machine that works well. I have thrown away several that were beyond possible repair. I just gifted a restored machine to a woman and sat and gave her instructions on how to wind the bobbin ( self winding ) and the threading - she seemed a bit overwhelmed. I think I will need to provide at least 4 more lessons... This is not an easy machine for everyone, but I learned on one in 1964 and they are acceptable for me... My absolute favorite Singer machines are the #301 and # 401 ..

I recently had a sewing repair shop clean and restore my Ma's 603e Singer Touch and Sew. I'm enjoying learning to sew on it. Encountered an issue with the needle position selector. It works fine for center and right, but I can't seem to get it to go into the left position. It doesn't click when I try and I'm afraid I'm going to break it if I force it. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Thank you. I love that this forum focuses on the Touch and Sew machines.

Hello, If you had the repair shop clean and restore it, then take it back and have them remedy the problem. The lever the controls the needle position can be easily bent by forcing it and finding a replacement for 50+ year old ( 1964-66 ) machine will be futile.. It may just need a squirt of WD-40 but since you just paid them, they need to correct the issue... Be certain you are "pushing in the lever" and then making the L-C-R adjustment.

Childstar, many thanks for your advice. I didn't realize I had to push in the lever! It works! YAY! Woo-hoo!

I loved reading back thru the years this post on T & S Singer machines. I loved mine and yes, I used the duck cam!

Wow, this is an interesting thread. I didn't even know Gardenweb had a Sewing Forum! I'm a rose fanatic and frequent the Rose Forums most of the time. But I just started back sewing this yr after not having done much in the last 20+yrs. I have my mom's old 603E Touch 'n' Sew machine that she got around 1967, and I LOVE that thing!! I rarely have problems with it, and it hasn't been serviced in probably over 30yrs. What I love about it the most is the bobbin winding in the case! I've been sewing a lot of the new knits and it does pretty darn well on most of them, and I don't even use any special stitch on them. I hope the machine lasts as long as I'm going to be sewing, because I wouldn't want to use any other kind!

dear childstar. I have a singer 784 sewing machine. I would like to mention that I wrote using google translation. my machine had broken a gear and the wedges holding the engine. I supplied them and put them in the machine. The machine stops after 5-10 stitches. because the thread enters the bobbin cabinet. I cannot overcome this problem.

broken and replaced parts are below.

how should the belt tension be adjusted, especially after the engine mount? which settings can i make? I live in turkey and where to find spare parts. I'm having turkey sewing machine ever sold and knowledge to find someone.

Firstly, you are showing leather being sewn with that machine which does indeed have plastic gears.. The German made # 784 is a "dressmaker" machine, not an industrial machine. You need to use an industrial machine that is intended to sew on leather, not a home sewing machine. There is little wonder it skips stitches. I am surprised that it will even sew, and there is no wonder the gears are breaking. (That hook gear is almost impossible to find and expensive )..

dear childstar,

I should have stated that I found that image on the internet. I wanted to put the image because this model is not a common model. photo of the problem I have experienced is as follows.

I have a 1966 touch&sew desktop with every piece, box and manual original for sale.

Will send photos to anyone intersested and will also deliver.

I replaced the drive gears for the bobbin on my 630 Touch&Sew. While gripping the case above the hand wheel, I accidentally broke the wiring connection on the two smaller black wires. (Under the top cover, next to the hand wheel) The two small black wires that come up the front are soldered together. The two small black wires that come up from the back are broken off at the insulation. So I can't tell if one, both, or neither of the two back wires from the back should be connected to the front wires. Does anyone know how to connect the wires back to the soldered connection? (Connect one, but not the other? Connect both?) Thanks.

You have torn the wires that control the "needle up" feature when the machine stops. Yes, they do need to be reconnected if you want this feature to work..

Thank you childstar for identifying the function of the wires. The two front wires were soldered together. The two back wires were disconnected, with no exposed wire. I don't know whether to connect one or both of the back wires to the front pair. Any thoughts?

Oh, I understand.. Someone in the past disconnected the "needle up" feature.. If that feature appeals to you ( I personally like it and that machine has a solid state motor and foot control ).. I would reconnect it, but get some heat shrink tape and slide it over the wires before you re-solder them..

It does not matter, the two complete a stop relay so the needle returns to the "up" position..

Glad to see there are some more recent posts on this thread. I foolishly gave my T&S 600E to my daughter, then promptly got a used T&S 640 for myself. At the time, I had no idea of the switch from metal to plastic gears. :( Why? I'm sure it was a money savings thing for Singer. At any rate, I'm game to fix the gears that broke when we (husband and I) were cleaning and oiling it. I got the full gear replacement kit. We watched videos (strangely a 620 model not a 640, similar but not exactly the same). Then we dove into it. Hum... No wonder not many have survived. the top gear has a machined pin instead of a set screw! WHY?? The average consumer cannot remove a machined pin. We are not average though and with much patience, we drilled out that pin. Slowly and carefully. I have to wonder if Singer did this as planned obsolescence... Make a machine that the consumer cannot fix, that costs so much to repair, that they just replace it. This machine will likely now last my lifetime. At least that top gear now has a set screw instead of a machined pin, in the event the gears are still available next time.

The switch to plastic gears was made to reduce gear whine. It was mainly a noise reduction and operator comfort thing. Metal on metal gears are loud and rough. Plastic on plastic gears are quiet and gentle. Instead of the loud hisssssssssh of the metal gears you get a muffled mum mum mum mum mum operating the machine. At the time, plastic embrittlement was just becoming understood, and was 20 years into the future before it was anticipated to be realized. Or, in other words, the plastic gears would last until they wanted you to upgrade and you would want the new model anyway, so they thought.

Childstar, I have my mom's 1964(ish) T&S 600e. I have taken up quilting and am making a quilt for each of my grandchildren. My husband went through the machine, oiling and cleaning which resulted in a much smoother and quieter machine. Yes, he is a very handy engineer and worked on small appliances while in school in the '70s. I have had no problems with the machine during the process of assembling my quilts. However, I am fascinated with free motion quilting and really want to learn. However, the machine will purr along must fine and suddenly get "stuck". There is always a broken thread on the back side, some skipped stitches, and much frustation. I had very good luck when trying some Isacord thread. But everything else results in these sticks and lock-ups. The odd thing is when it hangs and the agrees to continue, there is always a broken thread on the back but it magically seems to continue sewing. I am at my wit's end and have had to return to doing my quilting with a walking foot. The free motion foot was purchased from Sewing Parts Online and seems to work pretty well but it does not hold the fabric down. There is lots of play between the foot and the throat plate. I have the machine set for "darn" on the pressure dial, throat plate in the up position and the stitch length set in the fine zone. I realize this is not today's "desired" quilting machine but if folks can free motion quilt with a treadle machine, this workhorse should be able to handle it. Any help you might offer is much appreciated.!

The "Chinese made" embroidery foot is not the best for that machine. I had the best luck with the "Singer made in Britian" darning and embroidery foot that was made in the early 1960's for the Slant needle machines. I had great sucess doing monograms with it. The only problem is, that they are very difficult to find and the price is outragious. When they were new they cost $ 2.95, and I have seen them on Ebay for as much as $ 65.00…. A slant needle machine ( other than the # 301 ) is never the best for free motion quilting .. The thread always jams or breaks.. A Singer straight stitch oscillator machine ( #'s 99- 15 etc. ) are the most forgiving for free form quilting.. The #600e is a good machine for clothing construction, upholstery sewing etc… ( Not leather, as most sellers will demonstrate- that will burn out the poor motor ). They are not a "factory industrial machine"..

The 'needle up" control intrigues me! Can that be reversed to needle down? I don't think my 600e has that feature anyway. But I'm trying to learn to stop with the needle down. Timing is everything!

The "needle up" feature was introduced on the # 630 golden touch and sew. It cannot be adjusted to stop in the down position. It can be disconnected however. This feature was considered very "cutting edge" at that time in 1967..

Childstar, do you know if there is a "ruler foot" for quilting available anywhere for the 600e? This is a technique that would facilitate some lovely quilting. Thanks!

https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/wf-wssrf-ls.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxNT8BRD9ARIsAJ8S5xYaTD5vlOe8OhUQ1Tv-SF0GfO9FrC4HVS7d4stfPsAwffAkqj-_LwEaAh1mEALw_wcB

WESTALEE
SKU: WF-WSSRF-LS

Westalee Slant Shank Ruler Foot Starter Package For Low Shank Singer Machines

Ferippee, that shank looks awfully low in the picture. Are you sure it will fit a "slant shank" machine. I can call them on Monday. Thanks for the link.

No problem. One of the commenters on that site said it fit their rocketeer. When it fits that, it fits your 600 and my 603. That's what clinched it for my referring you to their site.

The Touch 'n Sew was made cheaply for school home economic classes all over the country. They make great boat anchors.

Actually, the Touch and Sew model # 626 was used in Home Economics classes and they had metal gears in the "School Machines".. They are far better made than the "Plastic Chinese Junk" made today.

childstar, I have some questions. i have several machines, including 2 Singer Touch & Sews. One is a 600E, which i think was made in 1966. The other is a 626, made in 1967. The 626 has nylon gears that fell apart in my hand when i undid the bottom to check. But the 600E has metal gears. Is it worth fixing the 626? And, if i see metal gears in the 600E, does that mean it is a good machine worth keeping?

The 600e is a good machine because of the metal gears. I have my mom's which dates to 1964.

Or Korhan semih Sss, this YouTube video may help with your bobbin thread issue: https://youtu.be/58EKF0v6UK8 or this one: https://youtu.be/Z4ruDbTuVTY

Yes, for $50, I'd take that machine. It's a bargain! There appear to be accessories included, and you can always find more on Ebay. Even without the accessories, it's worth $50. It'll move quickly.

I just was gifted a singer touch and sew 603e with all the original parts and custom fit into an old treadle table. Sent it to the repair man for a tune up and cleaning and it works like a dream. He said he hasn't seen such a beautiful machine in a really long time. I just finished two straight line stitched quilts on it for Christmas gifts and I am loving it. I was wondering if there was a way I can get it equipped to do free motion quilting? What parts would be recommended and how would I go about adjusting settings to be successful in free motion quilting smaller projects? I'm not looking at using it as a machine in a long arm frame for anything, but rather just to do some fun stitching and detail work on my regular projects.