You do know attaching drain pipe to a sanitary sewer is illegal. Should of run it to a dry well.

Tom999 - to clarify, I didn't create a new connection to the sewer. The existing drain tile, which had deteriorated, was already attached to the sewer or storm drain (not sure which). I replaced the drain tile and used the same connection. So the current set up is no worse than the original set up when the house was built, which may not meet current code.

I have similar isues with cracks between mortar and block. So far I've been using hydraulic cement, but it's a pain in the butt because it begins to set up so quickly.

I've sort of backed off this project while trying to find a better solution. I also would like some advice on this problem.

Rick

I've been continuing to look at the foam method for filling the cavity in the walls. Most the research that I have done suggests hydrophobic urethane foam, but as I stated earlier its pretty expensive. Does anyone know if Great Stuff would work?

You can use standard mortar - mix it relatively dry, place some on a trowel held against the wall, and push the mortar into the crack with a tuck pointing trowel (about 1/2" wide). If there are open cells directly below the joints, stuff some newspaper into the cell to prevent the mortar from falling out of the joint. A stick almost as wide as the joint can also be used to push and compact the mortar into the joint.

have you thought of block bond

I have below grade concrete poured foundation walls in my basement from 1928. I have no visible seepage through the walls but the concrete is deteriorating and flaking off. should I scrape away the loose stuff and stucco over the cavities with a portland sand mix, and if so can i then paint it and what should i use. I would like to finish the basement and do away with any dust factors etc. Or should i just leave it and frame and rock over it.