Looks lovely on you laurie--I like it, in fact they are both perfect mother of the bride outfits.

I agree with Pattie, make the adjustment.

I'll be waiting anxiously to find out which is the chosen one. I'll bet your daughter has a hard time deciding.

Laurie,
Although I will be checking in daily, next week will be doing some charity sewing.

So i am giving you some sites or suggestions in advance, being a little proactive.

Underlining: Have posted site below with tips on doing underlining.

Zippers: If using preshrink by placing in warm water for 10 minutes, roll in towel hang to dry. Press. This removes package folds and prevents any shrinking on the cloth part of zipper when pressing.

Interfacing: If using Preshink same as zipper, DO NOT PRESS.
Have fashion fabric and underlining pressed before cutting.
(I often spray my underlining with spray starch then press.)
Press cloths can be as simple as left over underlining, press seams flat, *then putting strips of press cloths under seam before opening to prevent marks showing through fashion fabrics.
Someone suggested a pressing ham or roll for curves, good idea.
Myrna, Need you to check to see what I missed..

Here is a link that might be useful: Threads Magazine Underlining.

I think you covered all the bases Pattie.

I second the use of a ham they are marvelous for pressing curves and even some other seams.

It would be a good thing to put on your Christmas list--it's just around the corner now.

Dd decided....the winning dress is the Sew & Sew two-piece skirt & top!!

The Vogue dress is nice, but we both feel it's a little loose in the middle. She thinks some sort of skinny belt is needed at the waist. I am thinking when I'm all done with the two-piece dress in the dupioni fabric, I will make a knee length version of the Vogue dress in some other type & color fabric for the rehersal dinner. I can use a skinny belt & cardigan to wear with it.

Only 2 of the 6 blue lining samples (ordered from a co. in NY) came in the mail and they're not right. The other samples are on back order and they may not be getting more.

Yesterday, I made a trip to a fabric store that has a lot of special fabrics. It's not a chain store like JoAnn's and the ladies there are very helpful. It's a lot farther for me to drive, but I had another errand in that area and I'm glad I went.

I brought the dupioni fabric with me so I could pick out lining. I just said I'm looking for lining and said nothing about what colors are in the wedding. The lady knew exactly which lining right away. She pulled it off the shelf, set it next to the blue dupioni and that was it! I love it! Shiny, soft and a nice shade of blue. Dd is having bridesmaids wear long black gowns, guys in black tux (or suits). Flowers: Light blue hydrenga (spelling?)&cream roses. Flower stems/handle wrapped in light blue velvet ribbon, with excess ribbon hanging down fron the boquets. So, there will be touches of light blue in the wedding & decor.

They also had a batiste (off white) for underlining that was so soft and I fell in love with it. She said the batiste will work well with my fabric, so I bought it. I think it matches the weight and feel of the dupioni better than the denim blue symphony broadcloth. Although, the broadcloth probably would work fine.

She also reminded me to make sure that I mark the "top" of the fabric. She said because it's irridescent, the look will be a little different depending on which way the fabric is oriented. She wants me to be sure to cut out all the pattern pieces the same way. She also mentioned to make sure I tack down the underlining along the center line as well as other areas to make sure it's smooth and doesn't have bubbles, etc. They also had nice silk coated cotton thread, which she helped pick out a blue color that goes well.

I need to attend to some details before I cut out the dupioni fabric.

1. I need to figure out for certain what the "nap" means.
I believe the grainline runs parallel to the selvages (spelling?). There are "lines"/texture (you'll see them in the pictures below) that run perpendicular to the selvages.

2. I think the nap (in this fabric) refers to the shine and/or color being slightly different when holding the fabric one way, as opposed to turning it upside down. I think the lady at the store said to hold it up with selvages on left & right sides, look for a minute, then turn over and see if there is one side you like better. I tried every angle and I don't see any difference. I think I'll have to just pick a "top" to the fabric and then stay consistant when placing the pattern pieces. It's funny, because in the pics below, every one of the dupioni depicts a different shade of blue.

3. I can't tell which side is the "right" and which is the "wrong" side. I asked the lady at the store and she said either side can be used. I'll just have to pick that as well.

4. I need to read and understand underlining. That link is very good. I also have some info about it in my library books. I need to better understand "turn of cloth" and it's relationship to the vertical seams.

5. I need to practice pressing the dupioni before cutting. Press cloth, no steam/water in iron.

Trick-or-treaters will be ringing the doorbell here in a couple hours. I will try and get some progress done tomorrow.

Dupioni on left, lining on right

Lines in fabric perpendicular to selvage

Fabric hanging from upper stair railing

Oh yes Laurie I like that lining.

You know sometimes it pays to go to independant fabric shops. Just like going to a nursery for plants, the expertise is worth paying the extra for.

Nap refers to suedes or corduroy and like material, which you have to cut all the same way--The top--neck shoulder and waist goes the same way on the pattern. If it's not cut this way there is a difference in color.

It would be the way with your silk, because it changes colors if it's reversed. This is not important if you are sewing with material like cotton, and you can reverse the pieces. The pattern usually has a nap and no nap cutting layout.

If you make sure the tops of every piece is facing the same way you will be ok. Before you take your pattern off, make a stitch at the top seam allowance somewhere and tie the threads in a knot on either the right or wrong side. Then you will know by just looking at the thread which is the wrong or right side.

Yes the grain line runs parallel to the selvidges.

Don't forget to add to the seam lines for fraying, as Pattie suggested

OK Pattie-- your turn to add your 2 cents. Did I miss anything or do you have more to add

Laurie, Really like the lining, very elegant looking..

1) Yes grain line runs parallel to selvage. They maybe called perpendicular, always thought slub lines were horizontal.
2) Nap yes it is the sheen of the fabric that should be cut with nap meaning one direction. (just choose direction that you want to use for the top and I have used a safety pin with opening end for top in the selvage.)
3)The Right Side has more raised slub horizontal lines, the wrong side is actually smoother.
4) Read both your books and the above article on underlining.
5) Pressing, I put a big beach towel on ironing board, press on wrong side of fabric use pressing cloth.

Myrna is right about adding extra in seam allowance for fraying and other suggestions.

Happy Halloween to all, ours is over had 140 of the little darlings.....

How smart of you, Pattie:

Using a safety pin is much easier than stitching to mark right from wrong.

We only had 18 kids this year. Usually we get about 30. I think H1N1 has something to do with it. Years ago when there were a lot of young kids around we got around 200 but now our neck of the woods has a lot of retired folks.

Excellent tips and suggestions from you ladies, as always : )

I read through my books and underlining is not explained very well. The article Patti posted is better and more detailed.

Still need clarification on underlining.

In the article, it says to cut the underlining (in my case the cotton batiste)& the fashion fabric from the same pattern piece., trim the underlining along the marked hem line. Pin the underlining to the fashion fabric down center only along the straight grainline. Then to adjust for turn of cloth, place hand over pins, fold fabric overhand (underlining's overlap shows amount of adjustment needed for turn of cloth), average turn of cloth will be 1/8 to 1/4". I understand up to this point.

This next step is unclear to me: "Pin fabric & underlining NEAR ADJUSTED EDGES, & baste. My question: When I see that the underlining will be let's say 1/4" wider than the fashion fabric...do I trim off 1/4" from the underlining, then PIN THE EDGES OF BOTH FABRICS AT THEIR NOW EVEN ALIGNED EDGES? If I do this then baste all around all the edges , the two fabric pieces will not lay flat.

Myrna, LOL not that smart some methods are just old techniques of using what is on hand..
Laurie,
Pressing the dupioni and the underlining helps to not only smooth out wrinkles but also actually preshinks the fabric before cutting.

Cutting Pattern: Place straight pins in the seam allowance to hold pattern in place, I have weights for the center but have used heavy glasses from China Closet when at DD.

DO NOT leave straight pins in dupioni for any period of time, not matter what you pay for them they can oxidize (rust). (Learn from my bad experience.)

Refer to books on attaching (mounting) the underlining to the dupioni, eg might say for skirt machine baste from hem up one side across waist down to hem.
I usually hand sew long basting stitches from center of pattern piece from top to bottom to hold fabric and undelining together and leave them in until item is assembled.

Trying to stay a step a head.

Patti

Sent you an email message would not go through. Going to try and repost it maybe helping others.
keeps rejecting message????????????
Laurie, Thought I would be a step ahead darn..
Underlining, Just do the like I said above go baste up one side seam, start new seam go across waist, start new seam down other side seam, DO NOT Do Bottom..
If the underlining seams a little large leave it until it lays flat before trimming.
Sorry did not see your other post, if you need me quickly email me directly.

The selvage on the lining fabric has the words "Ambiance for Logantex" printed on one side. Would this side of the fabric be the "right" side?

To tell the truth, Laurie, I have never paid much attention to which side those things are printed. I think it might be on the right side, but don't take it to the bank.

The most important thing with the lining, as with the dress is to use the same side on all the pieces as the right side. Also to cut all pieces the same way "with nap" With the lining, if you can't see which is the right or wrong side, try both sides against your dress fabric.

Drape your silk over a chair the way it will be when you wear it. Since the lining has a sheen too and will change color when it is reversed. Reverse it and try both sides that way. Which looks best with the fabric?

That's my take on it but wait and see what Pattie has to say, too

Laurie, in most cases it is the trade marked right side of the fabric selvage.

Agree with all Myrna's great tips:
Select the direction and side to use lining fabric.
Cut all pattern pieces in one direction.
Cut "With Nap".

Inhale!!! Exhale!!! Go for it!!!!

I'm feeling some anxiety. Starting out with the batiste. Have not done anything with the Dupioni or lining, yet.

Pressed the batiste, pinned top pattern pieces and one skirt piece in place. Used my clear ruler & ink pen to mark dots 3/8" out from all edges, then connect the dots. This worked out ok for the skirt piece, but is not working so well on the top pieces.

The top pieces (4 of them) have several small short & pointed/angular cut lines. It is frustrating for me to try and increase each edge to 3/8" evenly, consistantly, keeping the angles, correct. Hard for me to explain. Then, I keep thinking...I have to do this 2 more times with the other fabrics! The Dupioni will be more difficult to place the dots & draw the lines because the fabric is darker. I have a white soapstone pencil thing, but the point is not as precise as a pen and I think it will be generally more difficult.

I'm really considering just cutting along the pattern lines as is and using the 5/8" seam allowance. Am I making a huge mistake by not increasing the cutting lines outward so I can use a 1"seam allowance?

Oh Laurie:

Our fault, we should have told you this before. Get yourself some tailors chalk--they sell it at fabric stores-- and draw the cutting line on in dashes. They don't have to be too close together. Just so you can cut from dash to dash on the straight or practicly straight lines. Mark in any curves and corners with shorter lines. This will work on the silk and lining. For the white batist you could use a fine lead pencil and a light touch. Just enough so you can see the lines.

If you did use just 5/8 seam and it frayed you would have nothing to use to finish the seams. Myrna

Dh is hiking in the local mountains today & took the camera with him. Wish I could post pics of the top pattern pieces.
It's hard to explain in words how there are many angles & curves.

When you say "draw the cutting lines" you mean 3/8" out from the pattern's actual cutting line, correct?

If I am correct, this is the hard part for me. Even if I have the right kind of chalk, or whatever, the 4 top pattern pieces are "complex" with curves, angles, and sharp turns. Wish my camera was here and I could show you what I mean. The curves take time, but I can do it. The little 90 degree angles next to the 45 degree angles are where it gets tricky.

Lsurie:
Use a 12 inch ruler--I don't know how yours is but mine has a small space on the end so if I put it on the 1/4 inch it will be just a hair over 3/8. If you use the same measurement for everything it won't matter. You are just cutting it bigger for fraying and 1 inch was just an estimate.

Put the 1/4 inch on the line and mark at the short end of the ruler. When you get near those angles, go to the angles and measure there and then join the lines where they would intersect. Got another angle don't quite finish the first one, go to the next one and measure then join them. If you have a straight angle use the drawing edge to join the lines a curved edge just draw the dashes.

Laurie, No pens.. unless they are marking pens not ink..I have use a fine pencil, No wire hangers, okay not funny..

Top look at the Pivot and Slide princess style sheets, you can just trace the outline on the of pattern piece, mark the 3/8" increase add this will keep it on grain..
Hope that makes sense..
Correct on the 3/8" The only seams will be added to is the shoulders(1)front, pieces over bust side seams(2).
back side seams(5) Shoulders (4)
See if I got your pattern piece numbers right on you pattern I opened the old post.
As Myrna Stated also.
1" seams: The only reason I suggest the 1" seams is that silk frays you can always trim off but if frays to close to seamline, could be a nightmare. It is important on fitted and semifitted garments.

Be back darn my DH wants dinner. LOL

Laurie:

If you get the underlining cut right then you could lay it with the pattern still attached on your silk and use that as your pattern. That way both pieces would be the same and it wouldn't take as much measuring and such. You would just have to make sure everything was smooth and on grain.

Pattie is right. We are all apprehensive when doing something we have never done before, especially when we are doing something that matters. You've had good preparation, so just use your common sense and look and think before you do something and you will be OK. Pattie and I are only an e-mail away.

Laurie,
As Mynra told you the underlinings are your new pattern pieces, for dupioni and lining.
LOL yes I still gasp when cutting the first piece too..
If your more comfortable with skirt do it first lines are straigter it will give you a feel for handling the fabric.
Yippee your almost there, Go For It!!!

I like the idea of using the cut out underlining pieces as my pattern for the dupioni & lining.

I also like the idea of moving the pattern piece 3/8" to trace the new cutting line on the batiste.

I think I will just start with the skirt since it's less complex compared with the top.

Still not sure on which edges should be 1" seams and which stay 5/8". Even if I eventually learn which should and which should not, I'm worried that I'll be confused at sewing time. Maybe I'll sew a 5/8" seam where I was supposed to sew a 1" or vice versa.

Don't give up on me...I'll get it eventually! I am sure lucky to have you two helping me!

I need to fix dinner, now. Maybe tomorrow I will feel refreshed and my mind will be clearer.

Laurie, We are hanging in here with you....
Take a break, you have been really giving this project your all, So Proud of you!!! Big Hugs, Patti

Laurie:

If you are unsure which cutting line is to have a 1 inch seam just think of how it is sewn together. If it has a seam you cut it with a 1 inch seam. On the skirt that would mean all pieces on the sides and waist unless there is one cut on the fold. Cut it longer if you need it for the hem.

As for forgetting and sewing a 5/8 inch seam that is easily solved with chalk. Mark the 1 inch seam at the top of each piece before you sit down to sew. When you pick it up to sew you will see the mark and it will remind you.

I haven't been involved in this project but I've been reading; I congratulate Laurie, especially, but also Myrna and Pattie. You are all amazing.

If you don't mind my 2 cents...what do you think about testing the actual garment silk for fraying? Cut off a small chunk and play with it, wrinkle it, pick the edges. Since the changes have already been taken care of in the muslins, the silk won't need much more than ordinary handling during construction, so may not fray at all. I have used dupioni many, many times and have not had any trouble with fraying.

I wish I could post a picture of the bag of silk scraps I have...all dupioni, in many different colors, that has been banging around and pawed through in my sewing room for years. None of it is frayed. It would be worth a try, in my opinion, to check the actual silk of Laurie's dress for fraying. Cutting would be so much easier for her if she could use the pattern. Anyway, it's just a thought.

Sherry

Sherry:

That might be a point. Never having sewn with it myself I don't know but it may be worth a try. It certainly would be easier for Laurie.

I bow to Pattie on this because she has made a lot of evening wear, while I just have a good knowledge of sewing in general.

Sherry, Great tip about checking for fraying. All input is welcome.

Laurie When you check for fraying you have you have to check the straight of grain and across grain.

Usually on dupioni or shantung real silks they recommend the larger seams to prevent any mishaps of the fraying (it can fray from a 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch), you can always remove or neaten excess in the seam allowance but not add it back in..

After the underlining is mounted or attached it will stop most of the fraying.

Since Laurie has not sewn with this before it may take a little longer but it is a preventative measure.

Patti

It would be much easier to use the cutting lines as they are, then stay stitch all the cut edges of the silk if it really does fray. I think there would be less room for error that way.

"Still not sure on which edges should be 1" seams and which stay 5/8". Even if I eventually learn which should and which should not, I'm worried that I'll be confused at sewing time. Maybe I'll sew a 5/8" seam where I was supposed to sew a 1" or vice versa." That would worry me, too, Laurie. I think you should make all seam allowances one size and forget trying to mark and remember what seam allowance goes where.

It's smart to make the less complicated skirt first to learn how the silk handles.

Laurie
Whatever works best for you, after working with the silk dupioni on over a few hundred items and many years the only thing I know dupioni is not a predictable fabric.
The rationale for the wider seam allowance is that it could shred.

It comes in few weights (usually light and medium), different grades and quality some more stable than others, although usually used in lose fitting apparel using couture methods (larger seam allowances) can be used in a semi fitted evening gowns and jackets.

Like I said whatever you want to do is fine, not trying to complicate just make you aware of the pitfalls..

Patti
.

Patti, Myrna & Sherry - I finally got the batiste underlining cut today (Wednesday)!!

I ended up carefully measuring 3/8" out all the way around, everywhere, on every piece (skirt and top). This way I can sew 1" seam allowances on all seams.

This process took a long time, but I feel safer this way.

Like Sherry had said to do, I had been handling the Dupioni and noticing quite a bit of fraying. So, I think the 1" seams will be best.

One thing went wrong, but I was able to catch it in time. I am going to make the size 16 skirt and the size 18 top. I had the 16 skirt cut and was moving on to do the top pieces. The top pieces (4 of them) were pinned to the batiste and I had just cut the second piece when I noticed a problem. I was cutting the size 16 !! I was sooo glad I caught it when I did....could have been worse! I fixed it, and now all top pieces are the correct size.

I left the pattern pieces pinned to the batiste. Now, I will have "templates" to cut out the lining and then the Dupioni. I got an email response from Logantex and like you ladies had said, the trademark name on the lining is on the "right" side.

I may not get a chance to do much until this Saturday.
My next plan is to press the lining, mark the right side and "top" with safety pins in the selvage. Then, cut all the pieces the same direction "with nap". I'll then do the same for the Dupioni. Then, comes the basting of batiste to the Dupioni.

I hope to have some pictures posted on Sunday or Monday. Thanks to you helpful & encouraging ladies. You're like my "sewing angels".

Laurie:
If you are still worried about sewing 1 inch seams, take a piece of masking tape and put it on the machine at the 1 inch mark on the plate. Painters tape would be best but the other will do too. When you see the tape you will remember 1 inch seams.

When you are finished sewing and remove the tape, if there is any glue residue on your machine, a bit of cooking or machine oil on a paper towel, will take it off. Then wash the oil off with a little soap and water on a cloth or another paper towel.

Good Job Laurie, Good Idea on the seam allowances, glad you checked the fraying.

Do It at your own speed, we will be checking in or you can email us if you need help..

Needle and stitch lengths: Please test on scraps( layer interlining and dupioni, also test for lining) the size of needle and the stitch lengths for basting and regular stitching before sewing. Record each number..

Myrna, good idea on marking the 1", I have used the blue painters tape to mark.

Take Care, Patti

All the pieces were cut this weekend : ) Using the batiste as a template, I cut all lining pieces. After that, I cut all Dupioni pieces.

I've got my blue painter's tape on the machine plate marking the 1"seam. I wound the bobbin slowly with the blue thread (100% cotton, silk finish). I put in a new needle, but it's not size 11. It's a Schmetz Microtex sharp 70/10. The needle tension dial is set to 2. My machine (Singer Featherweight) has a screw and bolt type of lever to adjust stitch length. With this type of lever, it's hard to tell exactly what stitch length I'm using. The stitch length is approximately 10.

When I practiced sewing on the scrap pieces, everything looked good. I practiced with the lining and then with the batiste layered with the Dupioni. There appears to be no puckering. The stitches look about the same on both sides of the samples.

I started basting the batiste to the Dupioni on the skirt back pieces. I began by pressing the two fabrics together. Then I hand basted (using a single purple thread) using about 1-1/2 to 2" stitches. I began going up the center, moving my "weights" (coffee cups) as needed. Then, I cut the thread and started basting along one side from bottom to top, started a new basting line along the waist, then a new line down the other side. I also basted the center of darts. I left the bottom hem un- basted. Then, I pressed the two basted fabrics, again (always using a dry iron and dry press cloth).

Before I proceed to sew the darts and continue to assemble the skirt, I was wondering if there's anything I have forgotten or if there are any problems or red flags you see with my process.

I'm waiting for the green light before I continue!

Laurie, Your amazing!!!! Great job!!! I am so very proud of you!!!

When you machine baste the skirt do it the same way as you did the hand basting at 1/2 inch.

Myrna, Featherweight with the Screw type adjustment for stitch length, Isn't the smaller the number the longer the stitch? The higher the number the tighter and more stitches per inch?

Patti

Pattie:

I'm not sure I have never used a machine with that kind of adjustment, however my first machine--oh so long ago-- had a dial with numbers for stitch length, and the higher the number the longer the stitch-0 had no feed and 5 was 7 stitches per inch. The machine is long gone, but I still have the manual so I looked it up.

Laurie and Pattie--I won't be around for a while. My grandson is very ill and in the hospital. We leaving tomorrow to go to my son's place. If you have any spare prayers, please say one for him.

Myrna, Will Keep your grandson in my thoughts and prayers wishing him a speedy recovery.. Have a safe trip..
Keep us updated on his condition.
Have not used one of the older machines in a very long time, like yours mine are electronic/computer types now with your type of settings.. Think that Laurie got the way they work..

Myrna - I will most certainly pray for your son. Thank you for telling us and keep us informed about his status.

Patti - On my machine, the lowest number is 6 and that sews 6 stitches per inch. I will machine baste 1/2" in from the edge as you suggested. Hope your charity sewing last week went well and that you got a lot accomplished : )

Laurie, Thoughtful of you to ask we will finish on Friday, whew we did a lot of stuff, mittens, hats, scarves and blankets the fleece is easy to work with, it is very rewarding to help those in need..
Good job on finding the basting stitch number. WooHoo your getting there.. Can't wait to see the finished skirt,
Patti

Hi Laurie:
I'm back and everything turned out OK. I just talked to my DIL and my grandson is getting back to his old self. Thank you for prayers. I'm sure they helped.

It sounds like you are well on your way with the skirt--good going

Myrna,
So Very happy grandson is getting back to himself.

Laurie, that means we are both back, finished charity work yesterday..Look forward to seeing the skirt..

I was gone all day Saturday - hiking in the Lake Arrowhead mountains with dh, ds & his gf. Was happy to read your postings this morning.

Myrna - So relieved to hear the great news about your grandson! I knew it was your grandson and not your son who was ill. I had incorrectly typed "son" in my last post. Life is precious and at times we're reminded how delicate it can be.

Patti - Good going on getting the charity work finished. Many lives will be warmer and happier with their newly made fleece items : )

You both have had a big impact on my life because you have helped me every step of the way with this dress project!

Latest update: I machine basted 1/2" all the way around each piece (batiste attached to Dupioni) of the skirt. I did not baste the lining pieces. Then, sewed the skirt pressing seams flat, then open (using press cloth on top of fabric and press cloth strips between seams). Then, I trimmed the seams right up to the 1/2" basted edge. I attached the lining, waistband and the zipper.

I am now reading & re-reading the steps to finish the front slit opening and the hem.
It says to turn up a 2"hem, keeping lining free. Baste close to fold. Trim hem to an even width. Finish raw edge. Sew hem in place, press.

Next, Make 2-1/2" hem in lining in same manner., keeping garmet free.
Open out skirt right front lining. With right sides together, pin lining & right front edges together at front opening edge. Stitch to large circle (top of slit).
Understitch lining.

Open out skirt left front lining. With right sides together, pin lining & left front edges together at front opening edges. Stitch to large circle. Understitch lining.

Turn lining to inside. Press. Catchstitch garmet & lining seam allowances to hem.

Make 1/2" French tack between lining & garmet side seams at lower edge

Sew hook & eye closure to waistband.

Any suggestions or tips before I attempt to hem the bottom and finish off the raw edge on the slit portion?

Laurie, Sounds like you have most of it under control..

If there is a specific question or doubt just ask us..

I would let the skirt hang for a few hours and press hems (in both lining and skirt) twice before sewing in lining.. This lets the fabric set the hems in the fabric.

Before I sew the lining for the top together with the Dupioni I have a question. Should I do any more to keep the princess seams flat?

I used a pressing ham which I think helps a lot. The seams look great after pressing, but when I move the top, hold it up, lay it down...you can see the seams "ruffle" up just a bit. The lining doesn't concern me. It's the underlined Dupioni. Right now, I have a 1/2" seams that have a machine basting stitch right at the edge of the 1/2". Once I sew the lining & the fabric together, there's no going back inside! The lining will be be seamed all the way around including the bottom.

My next posting will probably be tomorrow or Wednesday and I will start a "Part 3". Hopefully, I'll have some completed pics to share : )

Laurie, Your work is outstanding!!!!!! You absolutely amazing.
When I first saw this thought the lower picure was the top it is the lining right?

I also miss read thought you could see through it.
Regarding the puckers or ruffling:

You can trim to the 1/2" basting seam. Go back and edit make sure you have enough clips in the curves at especially before and after bust to before 1" armhole and in back where it curves 1" before armhole

Take the top and pin or baste shoulders let hit hang, press a more than a few times. Try this see what happens..

The bottom picture is the lining. I don't notice any puckering or ruffling on the right side of the top/seams. Only concerned about the seams on the inside. These seams were already cut to the 1/2" basted edge. Before sewing the pieces together,I only staystitched & clipped the curves where the pattern stated. So, should I now clip the other pieces involved with the curve, as well?

Lovely Laurie. You are doing good work.

Pattie has good advice. The secret to getting nice laying seams and the look of a well made garment is press, press, press. Sometimes I think there is more time spent at the ironing board than the machine.

Laurie, Yes sometimes it does require more clipping.
Sometimes when directions are written, think they should add the part you may need more clipping.

Anything with a curve requires clipping the tighter curve needs more clipping.

Myrna, your right more pressing than sewing in some cases..

Clipping, pressing, trimmed seams, and small stitches.

You can also pink the seam allowances closer than if you just trim them.

Laurie
Maybe you can start another Post, taking a while to get through this one..

This is better than a sewing show on tv.

Here is a link to part three

Here is a link that might be useful: Evening Dress - Part 3