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jrsteven

13 leaky windows need replacing - asking some advice

17 years ago

Hi - I'm currently getting bids for replacing the leaky wooden windows in my home.

And I have a few questions about the project that conversations with installers and Internet searches have not yet resolved.

I'd appreciate any advice and feedback this forum can provide.

We are going for vinyl, and looking at the following window makers and models: Paradigm "Tapestry," Great Lakes "Bayshore," Xact 1550, and Simonton 5050.

Our main goal is to get windows that will protect against drafts and heat/cool-loss (an alley adjacent to our house acts like a wind tunnel), and will cut our energy costs with LowE and argon gas. We have forced central air for heating and cooling, and live in SE Pennsylvania.

Our second goal is to get mid-quality windows that will enhance resale of our house, and yet not break the bank. We plan to spend either 2.5 more years in our house, or up to 7 years (depends on job).

Our third goal is to make a smart investment. We live in an "improving" city neighborhood, surrounded on both sides by unkempt rental properties -although nice houses are very nearby. We don't want to put too much lipstick on this pig, as the saying goes, if we aren't going to gain back our window investment at resale.

Here are the questions I have - and I'd really appreciate some expert advice on the route we should take:

1-Are Paradigm Tapestry windows too top-of-the-line for our goals? Do the other windows offer similar energy-saving benefits at a reduced cost? Is the warranty the thing that makes Paradigm Tapestry's better? Our quote for the Tapestry is about $500/window, while the others (BayShore, Simonton 5050) are closer to $300-400/window.

2-How important is aluminum capping to protecting against heat/cool loss? We live in an historic house, and could un-cap the wood exterior of the street-facing windows which don't get strong drafts. We plan to cap the side and back windows. I don't mind re-painting the street-facing window exteriors if we don't lose too much insulation benefit by not capping.

3-We like the BayShore model, but they have a block and tackle (kevlar cord) balance, while all the others have constant force steel coil. The sales reps are trying to spin me both ways - and my reading of the forum suggests that both modern systems are equal. Can I ignore the balance system differences in making my decision?

4-Does it make sense to fill the old lead weight block and tackle voids with insulation before the new windows are installed? I've heard arguments both for and against this method from installers.

Thank you for reading this, and I look forward to your advice.

Regards,

Jrsteven in PA

Comments (5)

  • 17 years ago

    I'm not able to offer an opinion on the specific replacement windows you are considering, but I would like to ask that you consider the following links. I'd really really really think twice or three times before you get rid of the original, historic wood windows. You'll get the most bang for your buck if you restore what you have, particularly because you'll be moving out "fairly soon". We've gone the restoration route with our 1918 windows and our house is pretty darned energy efficient now. Our cost for 7 windows was about $300 which included building our own storm windows.

    http://www.cttrust.org/8443?highlight=windows

    www.cr.nps.gov/hps/tps/briefs/brief09.html

    http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/index.htm

  • 17 years ago

    Thanks for the follow-up with the advice about restoring. After reading some accounts of people restoring old homes (check out "All the Way Home" by Ohio writer, David Giffels - a great read), I've been inclined to restore rather than replace. But I'm also wondering if I am ever going to feel warm in my house with our current windows.
    -Jrsteven

  • 17 years ago

    jrsteven, I think you'll be just fine and very warm - we're pretty comfortable in our house and we did 3 things; insulated the attic, added wood storms where they were missing and added spring bronze weatherstripping.

    Check out the attached forum and look for window restoration posts in the general forum. YOu'll find lots of experience with restoration.

    On top of everything, you'll have more $$ in your pocket to spend on other old home repairs!!!

    Here is a link that might be useful: old house web

  • 17 years ago

    I know nothing of the first two, but between the last two I would say avoid Xact; not a good window. The simonton that you mentioned is from a very reputable mfg, has an excellent warranty, and will meet your energy efficiency needs well. It is a fairly medium priced window. Having worked for window distributors over the years i have come to prefer coil balances; seems to have less problems. Coil capping the exterior trim will not effect the efficiency of your home, it is purely an aesthetic/maintenance issue. The coil is typicaly alum., which is conductive. It is a good idea to insulate the block and tackle voids just like you would insulate your walls. Most installers do this when replacing old wood windows with pocket replacements.

    Hope this was helpful

  • 17 years ago

    The Simonton 5050 is their low end replacement window. I would suggest looking at the 5500 series or the Prism Platinum (same window)depending on what's available in your area. Both have lower air infiltration numbers than the 5050.

    The Tapestry isn't as well built nor is it as aestetically pleasing as the Simonton 5500 IMO. Simonton is also the industry leader in terms of warranty sevice.

    Using trim coil to wrap the wood isn't going to affect the energy efficiency, nor will it cause problems with air infiltration if installed properly. The purpose of capping with trim coil is to reduce maintenence primarily by eliminating the need to paint.

    Don't get so invested in finding the right window that you ignore the skills of the installer. The best window on the market will not perform as intended unless it's installed correctly. Many of the problems we see are caused by a poor quality install or a poorly designed and/or engineered window.