What window brand and model did they propose for $1500 per window?

No you do not need a new construction window to replace those units.

We replaced rotted sills quite regularly prior to setting new insert/replacement windows.

I would have to see what the full extent and depth of the rot is prior to committing to anything but your previous quote seems a bit out of whack regardless of insulation details. Is there rot to the interior side of the home below the window?

Did he make any mentions of removing and replacing the siding? Interior trim, flashing, etc?

There is a regular posted on this board by the name of HomeSealed. He is out of Milwaukee and is the only person that I would recommend in that area of the country.

Read some of his other posts and you will get a great feel for the type of quality guy he is.

To wrap up your original post...I would get another quote and opinion.

Here is a link that might be useful: Homesealed

That could be repaired, maybe just replace windows on back of house for now.$1500 per window is typically is for high end wood windows with full frames, staining/painting included. Vinyl windows should be much lower unless you get crazy with options.

Unless your sashes are damaged or other reasons for replacement, I would try and seek out a good wood craftsman.

From the pictures, most it looks like bull noses and trim. Easily replaced and repaired.

If it goes beyond that, and you won't really know with out some exploratory work, then look at your options.

The answer to your question depends on where you are financially and what the house is like. I'm thinking this is not a colonial mansion in Moorestown, NJ. The vinyl siding gave it away.

With that in mind, there is no way I would spend that much money on those particular windows.

I would replace the rotted parts of the sills. This is most likely only the outer 2 inches or so, where moisture has been trapped under the ext trim. I would also replace the brickmolding (ext trim). I would then have these openings wrapped with the aluminum of your color choice, making sure that that is sealed properly, and also installed behind whatever drip cap is above. What I'm describing is not expensive work, perhaps app $200 per opening, including material. It is also not time consuming work, and fairly straight forward.

I would then choose a quality replacement window with an insert installation, preserving all your interior trim. I would think you could have all this done for less than $1k per window or so.

It could be argued that the technically correct way to do this right is to gut the openings and go with full frame methods, all new everything in and out. But replacement windows are called replacement windows for a reason. It is not always desirable to replace everything. For instance, if those wood windows of yours have a rope and weight balance system, then there is a large weight pocket behind the jambs. It's just not worth it to take all that apart unless you're wealthy or doing it yourself.

Just get the best window you can. I suggest fiberglass framed so that you won't lose glass space. If that doesn't bother you, high end vinyl will work as well. But don't skimp on the window. If you do, you will be back in the same boat in less than 10 years.

One more thing. The aluminum wrap on the outside can be bent in such a way to have a brickmold profile. This is much more professional and attractive, and shouldn't cost any extra if you have true professionals doing the work.

Good luck!

+1 to the other posts. The wood rot shown in your picture is pretty common. Sill noses and brickmold are not structural in any way, so there is no reason that a full tear-out MUST be done. Typically we chop out that bad wood and replace it, followed by aluminum capping as WindowDog described.
That price seems a bit extreme as well. As Todd mentioned, the only way it should be in that range would be a fully optioned wood window, stained, new mouldings, etc. A premium replacement should generally be half of that or less depending on options, etc.

If just replacement of rotted wood sills and trim are needed do you do that type of work or only installation of new windows? If you don’t, do you know a good reputable woodworker who does?

Sorry, question directed to HomeSealed.