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mahatmacat1

Two questions: flush door and re-veneering

20 years ago

Hi-- two very different questions in one post--hope this can work...

1) If we want a flush interior door (will be right near the front entry), just contemporary flat, no panels, what is the best quality we can get?

2) Completely different issue: I have some base cabs that are flat front veneer and I want to put a different kind of wood veneer on them. They're Ikea fronts to a pull-out pantry--the shape and the pantry idea are perfect, and the doors are predrilled for Ikea components, but I want teak veneer on the parts that show. Is there a way to do this? I've redone all the edge banding on our Ikea kitchen cabs, but that involved taking off the plastic edge banding and putting mahogany on. That's not possible with the fronts of these doors. Do I just veneer over the finish? Or do I do something to the finish to give it some "key"? I'll do the faces, the sides, and the panels on the insides that will show under the sink.

Thanks in advance for help on either or both of these urgent issues...

Comments (7)

  • 20 years ago

    1. Open the yellow pages under "doors". You should see listings for companies that sell doors and millwork. Call a couple of companies and tell them that you want to best door money can buy. I'm sure they'll fix you right up.

    2. You just want to veneer the flat panel? You'd need to at least sand off the finish so the glue has something to adhere to. Vacuum press would probably be your best bet after that.

    Mike

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks for the reply, Mike...

    At least on #2. I won't need reminding that this is not as helpful a forum as others after your reply on #1. Will save me time.

  • 20 years ago

    Look up 'hammer veneering' for a small or songle shot job.
    Just using dead weight will also work (stacks of books even).
    What is the existing finish? If it is wood veneer then just roughing up the surface and using contact type cement may work fine. Constantines is a ready source of veneer for this type of work.
    It is not 'fine furniture' grade, but few kitchen cabinets are anyway.

  • 20 years ago

    Perhaps I was a bit flippant in my last message. Sorry about that.

    There really isnÂt much to a flush door. TheyÂre either hollow or solid. The former being filled with cardboard or foam, the latterÂs core being some kind of composite material like particleboard or MDF. Obviously solid core doors feel, well, more solid. They're also better a reducing sounds, which can be a concern for something like a bathroom. Then thereÂs a veneer on the top of that. The quality of the veneer will vary depending on the price of the door. If money is no object someone will be happy to build you a custom door with cherry on one side and maple on the other.

    The jam will either be solid wood or veneer over particleboard, with the latter generally being less expensive.

    The local big box store will typically have luan, oak, and maybe birch (for painting) veneers.

    IÂd open the yellow pages and look for companies that sell doors and millwork. Stop by and ask them about the type of door youÂre interested in. Have them explain the differences and what youÂll be getting for you money. Online resources can be nice but nothing beats seeing and touching.

    Mike

  • 20 years ago

    I once did a tabletop with iron-on veneer and it worked great. Just keep the iron moving at all times.

  • 20 years ago

    When I veneered my harp, I used the contact cement method and used the thin paperbacked veneer. That was 15 years ago. It's still sticking, though now it's painted electric blue over the veneer.

  • 20 years ago

    Here's a link of an average flush door. I posted it just because it explains a lot of options. I'm sure if you went to a good lumberyard they can show you something VERY nice.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Flush Interior Door