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joseph_corlett

Rod Repair

The rusting steel rod has been removed from its bed below and is lying next to the damage it caused. I pushed it out through the large hole. Fortunately I have the filler piece.

I thought I�d seen it all with wood shims adhered with polyester bridging the sink flange and deck bottom, but here we�re at a new low, cardboard instead of wood shims. Everyone�s sick of hearing me say it, but this is why you must mechanically fasten sinks.

I like to show the least flattering shot of my repairs and low-level light tells the tale. I could have played with this with my Invicon kit, but even though it�s a canal-front condo on the Gulf of Mexico in a ritzy town, we�re on a budget here. In a 30SF kitchen and with the insanely low prices of granite these days, I�m pushing the edge of cost-effectiveness.


Finished. Notice the seam on the left that I had nothing to do with? This is why you always calculate the sophistication level of your customer into the repair.

Finished. Yes, the negative reveal is off on the large rear curve, but I didn�t cut the cut-out. You do what you�ve gotta do. The customer was delighted.

Finished with low-level light.

To all you new countertop buyers, forbid your fabricator from rodding with the exception of fiberglass bedded in epoxy in fragile stones. It is old school and obsolete since the inception of newer fabrication and transportation methods. When stone tops are properly installed they get all the strength in tension they need from the cabinets.

Expect major push-back from your fabricator on this especially if this is the way Uncle Guido did it for years and taught him the same. After all, you�ve only heard about this from some guy on the Internet. Have him contact me; I�ve got lots more pictures and MIA standards. Don�t let them install a time bomb in your countertop.

Comments (20)

  • 12 years ago

    Wow, thanks for the information. Your repair looks about the best it could given the amount of damage. I had no idea about this and will certainly ask questions when we finally get to the point of getting our counters. I don't want to have a new counter top with the need for future repairs built into it.

  • 12 years ago

    Trebruchet, was that rod embedded on the underside of the granite? I just had Sea Pearl installed a month ago and after reading your post I checked and think there is a rod on the sink edge of the countertop. It is not on the other 3 pieces of quartzite. There was never a discussion about this, because of course, I was too naive to even ask about it.
    I had read your posts about the sink reveal and using silicone and thought I had covered the important issues, but now I find out how little I knew about the whole process.
    I am about to be sick.

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    "Trebruchet, was that rod embedded on the underside of the granite?"

    loyalandtrue:

    Yes.

    Don't panic. As long as you maintain the seal between your sink flange and the bottom of your deck and keep your tops sealed you have nothing to worry about.

    Rods fail due to a stream of sequential errors. It starts with a leaking sink which starts from a lack of mechanical fasteners. This isn't much of a problem if a rod is stainless steel and embedded in epoxy as the MIA recommends. Unfortunately, it's usually cold steel, like this, embedded in polyester which is water resistant, not waterproof like epoxy. Of course, fabricators use cold steel and polyester because they're much less expensive than stainless and epoxy and can't be seen by customers. Until they explode.

    This post was edited by Trebruchet on Wed, May 28, 14 at 7:13

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    "Your repair looks about the best it could given the amount of damage."

    aamichz5:

    It isn't the amount of damage that affects the final look, it's the amount of money the customer is willing to pay.

    You're looking at a structural repair that had little cosmetic work. I could go back and obscure the line with color and particulate matches and contrasts, but that takes time and time is money.

    I've been in this business long enough to know that when she walks into the kitchen and exclaims "That looks beautiful", it's time to quit. That and if they hand you a beer and/or a check. Both are signs you're finished.

  • 12 years ago

    Thank you so much for the information, Trebruchet. There is definitely some sort of coating over the rod. I am going to call the fabricator today to find out what they used.

  • 12 years ago

    Tre - you are a wealth of knowledge. I am afraid to look under my sink but either way, should be OK - as I have quartz and the sink is seated in place.

    That repair was amazing, even if you didn't fill in with color.

    I love your final comments - I wanted to give our GC some really good beer but he only liked the basics but his son liked the craft beers!

    A2Gemini

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    loyalandtrue:

    Please, start at the beginning. Look up underneath your sink cabinet and see how your sink is secured to the stone. If you're not sure, post a picture.

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    One of the best cosmetically but more expensive repairs for a job like this is to switch out the sink with a farm style. The failed stone is cut out completely and replaced with sink.

    It would probably take the same amount of time day of, but would require an initial on-site verification and this job was two hours away. You could probably do it with phone pics and customer supplied dimensions if you're feeling particularly lucky. Plus the cost of the sink and that style isn't inexpensive.

  • 12 years ago

    Trebruchet- what kind of mechanical fastening for the sink should I be asking for from my fabricator? Are they multiple options or one gold standard?

    Thank you!

  • 12 years ago

    I am almost afraid to answer "look underneath your sink cabinet and see how your sink is secured to the stone" because it is probably not how you would do it, Trebruchet!
    There are four 2x4s lodged up against the underside of the sink, two on each side, screwed into the cabinet wall.

  • 12 years ago

    What is the procedure if the granite installers sandwich the sink flange in between the plywood and the granite? Some installers in these parts like to do it that way but I imagine it's a PITA if repairs/replacements are necessary down the road ... ?

  • 12 years ago

    So informative! Thanks for posting.

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    "There are four 2x4s lodged up against the underside of the sink, two on each side, screwed into the cabinet wall."

    Not my favorite, but nothing to argue about as long as they're screwed into the cabinet sides.

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    " as I have quartz and the sink is seated in place."

    a2gemini:

    Engineered stone has much more strength in tension than natural stone. You can carefully pick up a 4" x 8' 3cm estone backsplash on the flat and it won't break. That would never happen with natural stone.

    Because of this strength advantage, rodding is not a procedure recommended by estone manufacturers.

  • 12 years ago

    Thanks- we had a reputable installer and very tight seams, so I am sure they did it correctly- but will have to peak

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    jellytoast:

    Removing a sink so installed would be problematic.

  • 12 years ago

    Where was that rod? I'm a little lost in the conversation about "rodding". My husband reinforced our heavy sink with screwing blocks into the cabinet sides. He really worked hard to make sure it was going to hold the heavy sink, 126 lbs. The granite installer put wood blocks in to hold it up but my husband checked their work and some of the blocks weren't even touching the sink. He had a fit and redid them all himself. He often does that of course after telling me I should have made them do it "right". Right... As if I knowâ¦it's holding well over more than two years. I'm glad my husband is a can do guy : ) .

  • 12 years ago

    gr8day, there is a metal rod that has been embedded on the underside of the stone about an inch from the outside edge along the sink part of the countertop on mine. I had no idea it was there until I read Trebruchet's post. I just hope it does not do what the one Trebruchet had to fix did.

  • 12 years ago

    Thank you loyalandtrue. I hope your granite won't do that either. Maybe you could reinforce it on the sides with some extra support of some kind just in case! Thanks again.

  • PRO
    12 years ago

    "Trebruchet- what kind of mechanical fastening for the sink should I be asking for from my fabricator? Are they multiple options or one gold standard?"

    illinigirl:

    There are many ways to mechanically fasten a sink. Some fabricators use a special tool that cuts a hole for a bolt that mounts directly into the top which holds a clip which holds the sink. Although I've never seen the phenomena, I've heard that the weak spots in the top created by this method can eventually be seen from the top. Again, I have no verification of this. This is cheap and fast.

    The Sink Setter rails work very well but are relatively expensive as do the Cinclips.

    My inexpensive favorite is the Hercules Universal Sink Harness. It places the burden of sink support on the cabinet sides, not the stone. It is so powerful, you can lift the stone off the cabinets if you over-tighten it. Best of all, it turns your sink into a 10" deep steel truss, making one of the weakest parts of your top, the sink cut-out, into the strongest.

    This post was edited by Trebruchet on Thu, May 29, 14 at 11:10

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