IKEA has narrow (28 inch) and affordable fridges, but not as shallow as you want (the one I pulled up on their website is 31 inches deep). 27 is really shallow for a "regular" (as opposed to custom built-in) fridge.

We had a similar issue, too. Have you looked into Fisher Paykel? They tend to a wider selection of narrow/tall refrigerators at a reasonable price. Here's something similar to what you might be looking for:

http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/E522B.html?brand_store=1

Is this the LG refrigerator you were thinking of:
http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/LRBP1031.html

Heres one by Fagor.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fagor Refrigerator

A couple thoughts:

LG LRBP1031T; Width: 23 1/2"; Depth w/o Handles: 24 5/8"; Height: 67 5/8"; doesn't hold much at 10 cu ft but maybe you could supplement with a ref drawer or under-counter ref. http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/LRBP1031T.html

Frigidaire Professional Series FPRH17D7KF; Width: 32", Depth w/o Handles: 26 1/2", Height: 65 3/4". This is an all-ref unit so you wouldn't have any freezer in the kitchen unless someone makes freezer drawers similar to ref drawers. http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/FPRH17D7KF.html

Summit FFBF285SSIM, Width: 27 1/2", Depth: 24" (probably w/out handles), Height: 75", a few models with and w/out ice maker; http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/FFBF285SSIM.html

Finally, since you are gutting your kitchen, you can consider recessing your refrigerator into the wall behind it. This will buy you a few inches. You still need to be sure you have clearance in front of the ref for pulling it out for maintenance; you also have to be sure you have enough space to the sides for opening the doors wide enough to pull out the drawers.

wow...great quick help.
1. as a family, we need at least 18cf of usable fridge. 20 would be best. anything more is a gift.
2. cannot push any wall back as walls go to porch/exterior; common firewall (which is prob. where it will sit; exterior/driveway; and dining room. it's a pretty set pace. the all fridge is a bold choice because we have a freezer downstairs. but that means going into the semi-finished basement everytime someone wants ice in a drink. hmmm.
3. can't do an extra fridge drawer because we're barely getting enough cabinet space as it is.
going to look at all of these.
many thanks.

There are a bunch of counter-depth fridges but they're probably over your budget. KA makes particularly good fridges - I have a full-depth fridge but it's at the end of a run of cabinets so I don't mind that it sticks out a bit - I like having the extra room in the fridge.

We have Jenn-Air (model JCD2295KEP). It is a counter depth model that has been discontinued by Jenn-Air sometime in 2009. However the appliance dealer we worked with did find one in Oct an cost was approx $1400 (discounted due to discontinuation). Here are the specs:
Dimensions
Width : 35 5/8"
Depth : 29 3/8"
Depth without Door and Handles : 24"
Depth without Handles : 26 3/4"
Depth with Door at 90° : 45 7/8"
Height : 70"
Height without Hinges : 68 1/2"

If you google the model number you can find information - looks like it may still be available, but price appears higher than $1400.
We had a 25CF so this one is smaller but it is just my DH and me and we will adjust. So far we like it.

I'm going to be honest with you...the problem is that you want a shallow counter-depth refrigerator or built-in at standard-depth prices and standard-depth width dimensions.

Prices work as follows:

Least expensive-to-most expensive:
Standard-depth
Counter-depth...but really close to 31" deep when counting doors & handles
Counter-depth...true counter-depth
Built-ins...that really are counter-depth

Refrigerators less than 36" wide are becoming more and more difficult to find...as a matter of fact, many of us here on the Forum recommend that anyone remodeling their kitchen plan for a refrigerator alcove/enclosure no smaller than 36" wide x 72" high b/c we think it will only become more difficult, not easier, in the future finding a small refrigerator.

One note...to be able to open fully, the doors in "regular" CD refrigerators must stick out past the surrounding cabinets, counters and walls...to around 12" on each side of the refrigerator with hinges. "True" CD and built-in refrigerators have "special" hinges that do not require clearance around them...but that costs more.

So, if your refrigerator is next to a counter, that means the doors must start 25.5" deep...if you're looking for a refrigerator no more than 27" deep, then that means your doors + handles can be no more than 1.5" deep.

Also, keep in mind that the actual depth of an installed refrigerator may be an inch or so more...you have to add space for air clearance around the refrigerator...back, top, sides...plus room for plug and anti-tip device. In general, standard-depth refrigerators require more air clearance, CD less.

Do you have a layout you could post? We might be able to help you with spatial design...

[BTW...you're probably not receiving emails of follow-up postings, even though you checked the box requesting them. This is b/c you don't have the email option turned on in your profile. See the "Read Me" thread for more information. Scroll down to the post with the subject "Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process".]

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!