The specs include how to fit a 24" MW drawer in a 24" cabinet. Yes, it's probably easier to put in a bigger cabinet, but it's not necessary. For a professional, I would think it wouldn't be that big a deal...

Here is a link that might be useful: Installation Tips: 24

No, the KD doesn't have it backwards. Putting the 24" into a 24" cabinet means the installer has to hack at the 24" cabinet and practically remake the whole thing. The 27" comes with the correct sized cutout without having to hack at it. When you have a 24" appliance in a 24" cabinet, you also have to cut the faceframe back to practically nil. I'd want the box to be all plywood, and I'd be leery about installing granite on top of that.

I'd do the 27" in a heartbeat. It's sized correctly from the beginning, doesn't compromise it's structural integrity for the counter support, and won't cost you a fortune in install labor for the custom hacking.

The installation diagram linked by buehl isn't totally correct for the current KB6524 model, in that there is now zero overlap at the bottom. The hole size should still be correct, and the top overlap is still 3/16" (15" total front panel height). I did find the correct data somewhere on the web, but you will not find it on the Sharp site, or any retailers' download info or datesheet, at least as of June 2013.

Thank you for the thoughts. I had concerns about the 24" having to be trimmed back so much, but I also didn't want a lot of empty space around the unit. I'm wondering if they could do a custom order on the 27" and size it back an inch or so to leave less space.

Attofarad, I will make sure I find the right set of drawings.

My 30 inch was installed yesterday in a 30 inch cabinet and it fits perfectly! I just used it for the first time and I love it! The kitchens not finished but I can at least warm my coffee in it!

I'll post a pic if I can figure out how...

We are doing custom cabinets and my cabinet shop suggested using 25" just so there's a little breathing room for it. I hope that's adequate space now!

I think if you can afford the 3", Id try to do the 27" to be safe, assuming you can't do a 25/26..?

My 24" drawer micro is in a 24" cabinet that was ordered to accommodate it. I like it that way. There was no hacking up the cabinet at installation. I suppose you could have to remake a 3 drawer stack to fit, but there's no hacking if you get the cabinet right.

My cabinets are frameless so the doors are full overlay. If you have framed or inset cabinets, you may want to size the cabinet to line up the front of the micro with your drawer heads. Depends on the space you have and what you want to line up.

kitchen base cabinets hieght

I've ordered the same 24" Sharp drawer microwave to go in a 27" wide cabinet. I just had a thought after reading this thread that my cabinet may not be wide enough to accommodate the outlet I was going to put on the side of it with the microwave. Does anyone know how wide my cab would need to be to accommodate the microwave and a junction box?

In my last kitchen I put the Sharp MW in a 24" base cabinet and put the junction box in the back wall.

cpartist, did you need to add extra space behind the cabinet for the electrical? I ask because there was a kitchen featured recently in a Houzz story and the designer said she had to do this.

[Room of the Day: Custom-Kitchen Look on a Budget[(https://www.houzz.com/magazine/room-of-the-day-custom-kitchen-look-on-a-budget-stsetivw-vs~65866558)

I'm puzzled by this.

Someone didn't follow the manufacturer's specs if they ''had'' to do that. What do you expect though? Just look at the terrible layout that was created there. No KD would stick a giant blob of a fridge and pantry right in the middle of a counter run. Or miter butcher block. Or use matte paint on the back of an island. or use just a sliver of a cover panel at the back instead of using a whole piece for the side, even if it had to be custom created. Houzz features all kinds of'' what NOT to do'' on a frequent basis. There is no one on board with any functional design background. Just a bunch of marketers.

I just had the electric run for this. According to the spec sheet I have, it requires a standard 24 in base cabinet. Outlet to be placed in the upper left of cutout.

We put the electrical for the drawer microwave in a 4" space next to the 24" microwave cabinet that we had reserved for electrical for the dishwasher and for outlets on the island. I looked at the spec sheet and it seems to say the unit is 23"+ deep so I'm not sure the electrical will fit behind it in a standard 24" cabinet.