What are your feelings about killing off the island?

We aren't totally opposed to removing the island, but there are 2 main constraints: (1) the ovens can't move at all otherwise new electrical will have to be run to bring them up to current code. service and fuse panel is on opposite side of house; and (2) due to cooktop venting constraints, the cooktop either has to remain in the island or to the left or right of the sink.

What if you put a new range where the wall ovens are now? Would you still have to update the electrical?

You would be surprised what can be done when it comes to getting in a vent hood. One of my clients replaced a dysfunctional downdraft range with a range and island hood (although the range is in a peninsula) --and this was 150 year old masonry house.

palimpsest -- unfortunately, we can't move the ovens.

I'd probably move the frig to the top position on the right hand sink wall....[far left when looking at sink].Move cooktop to the right of ovens with counter flanking on left and right...doesn't even have to be symmetrically placed. Eliminate island....shorten that long run to the right of sink a bit. Then along the whole sink/counter run do some varying bump out depths[deeper sink base or pull the whole run out to 27 or 30 in]. The kitchen on your pic looks like an island kitchen but will really be a tight corridor kitchen-self defeating. The eating set-up next to the frig will be an island in a way...By increasing depths on that sink wall it will look better[I have a feeling you want a stylish look]...will perform wonderfully for you, and will eat up some central floor space. The people seated on the kitchen side,on the stools won't feel so closed in and the cook can more easily land his/her self on that kitchen side stool while cooking to chat and be part of the social thing you are aiming for.do you have a kitchen style you are leaning to?

I would put the cooktop to the north of the existing DW location and move the DW to the other side of the sink and eliminate the island.

If your electrical is not up to code, I, personally, wouldn't renovate a kitchen until I can afford to fix that. Adding newer appliances is only going to further stress the system you have and increase the risk of problems, both in function and safety.

Yes, this is a bigger reno than you may want to begin at the moment. That cooktop has got to go if you're planning kids, and your electrical has to be updated regardless. If you can't afford that at this time, keep planning and find the perfect plan and wait on pulling the trigger until you can afford to do it right.

If you are in one of many jurisdictions that requires permits for the kind of work you plan to do, then you'll be updating the kitchen electrical anyway. "Can't's" will be irrelevant.

If you can't afford to fully upgrade at this point I would still consider taking out the drawers in the base cabinets, and the appropriate uppers to the north of the DW and putting the cooktop and a vent hood there. You will be replacing like with like so not adding to the electrical load. I would cut into the existing countertops to do this, and patch the floor and use an inexpensive floor covering.

I am not wholesale against island cooktops but the type you have is particularly inconvenient and potentially dangerous, so if you are going to start having kids, I would want it out of there, even as I was saving money to do a full-fledged renovation.

What is the issue with your electrical? Are you underserviced or is it a change in method.

Several people in my complex had problems because the existing dishwashers and (for the few that had) clothes dryers were hardwired into the receptacle rather than plugged in. Is it something like this, or is the issue more significant?

Thank you everyone for the responses so far.

I want to clear up the issue with the electrical. First, we are getting appropriate permits for the reno work. Second, the home was built in 1999 and unfortunately at the time, 240v runs only required 3 wires. Since then, the code has been updated and requires 4 wires. If the drywall is opened up behind the oven, then a new electrical line will have to be run all the way back to the electrical box either through the ceiling of almost the entire width of the house or around the house in a buried line. We won't have this issue with the cooktop because we will be replacing the electric for gas and the gas regulator is located on the other side of the wall from the sink, about 5 feet down.

The cooktop to the left of the sink is definitely an option we've considered, but our only concern is it throws off the symmetry of the kitchen on that wall with the sink directly below the window and the flanking overcounter cabinets.

Well, that cooktop has to go somewhere--the island is out. Absolute drop dead minimum clearance for any kind of island is 36" and you don't have that. Plus the cooktop comes nearly to the edge of the island. The most frequent and most dangerous type of kitchen accidents involving death, permanent disfigurement or other major injury to children from boiling liquid knocked off a stove. This kitchen looks like it was intentionally designed to promote that.

Move the cooktop and the DW, and don't worry so much about the symmetry. You'll have a kitchen that is much easier, and safer, to work in.

The lower zone of your area isn't showing the walls-can you actually incorporate a bigger island concept with cooktop down in that lower space...you have 8 ft across your kitchen...this is the open area-isn't there something you can do to get island/cooktop/seating "all in one"...

I'm no expert, but here's my input :)

Definitely need to lose the island, but a peninsula to the bottom right could work quite well without closing you in (a couple stools could be added and the DW could be moved here as well). It's always nice to work with others in the kitchen and it would be great for entertaining. I'm not sure how large the butler pantry is or what is to the left of it, but recessing the fridge would open up some nice floor space. Alternately if the venting issue could be examined more you may find it not too complicated to vent through the wall or ceiling - in which case the stove would work well where the fridge is and the fridge could go to the far left of the sink.

Good luck!