Is it actually damp or wet? A catalyzed lacquer is suppoed to hold up. Is it waterbased or solvent based?

what brand of cabinet?

These are custom cabinets that were sprayed at the cabinet maker's shop. I think it's a solvent based finish. The door itself is shaker style. If a drop of water runs down, it can sit on the edge of the inset panel. We're now being very careful not to let that happen, but it obviously happened in the past at least once or twice.

Here's a larger view of the kitchen. The bits of blue tape are where some touch-up was needed.

If it's a solvent based coating, there should be no problem touching up.

I hate to say it, but one of the most frustrating issues when it comes to locally made cabinetry is the finish. Wood must be carefully dried and kept at certain moisture content prior to finishing. If this is not done (and it is very difficult to do in a local shop)the wood will either grow or shrink. This will cause cracking or pealing of the finish. From the photo, It appears that you have a top notch cabinet maker. It is very difficult to build inset door cabinetry properly. Also, the apron sink installation appears to be excellent - not an easy task. The large national manufacturers not only have the buying power to purchase kiln dried wood, but they have the ability to store it properly. A catalytic finish is considered the most durable, however, an earlier comment is probably correct. This could be a relatively easy "on site" fix. Best of luck. I am a professional kitchen designer. Thought I would chime in...

Here is a link that might be useful: My Bio

Please run your finger around all the edges before the contractor comes and see if there are any more peels, just in case this is not just a water issue, but an incompatibility issue, or the coating didn't have a chance to cure properly.

That won't be able to be "touched up" - sorry.

I don't think there's anything wrong with the finish, but rather how it was applied. - Which is the cause of most failures.

If it was a solvent based coating the edges can be flattened out and more coating sprayed on. (with an hvlp sprayer)A solvent coating burns the coating on to the substrate. But if the wood is not properly dried, it will be a problem. I hope the contractor is an expert on coatings and applications.

Unfortunately, I doubt that my contractor is an expert on coatings. He's a great guy, but relying on the expertise of the cabinet maker who's a bit of a dweeb.

Is there an easy way to tell if this is a solvent-based or water-based finish? Perhaps a solvent that will affect one but not the other? I can check using a q-tip on a hidden inside corner...

If it turns out to be water based, should ask him to sand down the affected doors and refinish?

And should there have been a primer/sealer coat under the finish? Or is lacquer normally applied over bare wood? I'm assuming a primer/sealer cost would have improved the adhesion of the finish coat.

Sorry for so many questions, but I want this fixed without asking for something unreasonable.

How about asking the cabinet maker what he used? And ask him for a solution. Maybe the cabinet maker needs to come and see them. This is definitely fixable. It's just a question of making sure it's done right.

Just to close the loop...The GC and cabinet maker both came over yesterday evening. They both thought it was water damage.

The GC told the cabinet maker to order two new doors and have them painted. He then told us not to be concerned about the cost...he wants us to be happy and he'll take care of it.

I'm buying him a nice holiday present...

hooray!!!

ohno - you do understand how a catalyzed finish or conversion varnish works , don't you ???

"A solvent coating burns the coating on to the substrate."

this just isn't possible with a catalyzed finish, and even on a door like you describe, it'd need to be removed, taken back to the shop, sanded, and re-sprayed. That's not a touch up either.