http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=18586

Active link below. HTH

Alternatively, you could just paint the toe kicks black for now & save the laminating until it warms up & you can work outside. Probably have to cut new kicks with new lumber but least ways you already have the pattern.

Here is a link that might be useful: Contact Cement Discussion

I do about 10 kitchens a year in laminate, but I still use the contact cement "dap brand". It's pretty much the same as wilsonarts contact cement. It does stink and you need to opend some windows, but it sticks good. Set your depth of the bit carefully so you don't cut around the side to much. That router will die if you push it hard so take it easy and you may get through the project with it. I use an oversized bearing on a flush trim bit to get it close and get most of the glue out of the way. Then I do a final clean up with the correct bearing. Merry Christmas. Kenneth

The undoubted culprit is probably the pine. Solid wood doesn't work as a substrate for either laminate or veneer. It's not smooth enough to get good contact between the surfaces. Contact cement doesn't really "fill" in the gaps either. Use the pieces you've cut as templates and get some hardibacker or 1/4" MDF as a substrate and you'll have a lot better success.

Noooooo! I was concerned maybe it was the pine. I was considering using MDF, but given all the custom cutting I had to do to get the uneven top (hidden) surfaces good, I don't think I'd have as good of luck in hacking up MDF. I basically did multiple rips of varying depth to get my wacky angles, and then cleaned it up with a belt sander. A little "brute force", but cutting down 6" wide board to a varrying 5" width with a circular saw wasn't doable.

Given the hours/time I just spent on the pine, I just might cry if I have to do it all over again in MDF. I may just have to consider ordering the laminated MDF parts from IKEA, and then figure out how to add a molding to make the 4 1/4" height boards work for my areas that vary all over the place.

I was originally going to just paint them, but in a couple areas they are very visible, and the laminate will look (and wear) so much better.

I've worked with the water based adhesive. It could be that the pine soaked up the adhesive and you need to apply more, but it sounds like you already did that. The water based adhesive has a longer drying time. You say you let it dry 20 minutes. You need to let it dry until it is dry (kinda rubbery) to the touch. If it is at all goopy, it will not adhere. Water based adhesive needs time to cure. You need to apply, put a heavy weight on top or clamp it and leave it overnight before trimming. Unlike regular contact cement the bond is weak at first and gets stronger over the next few days.

I let it dry for quite a while - it was dry to the touch on both pieces. I guess I'm going to try it again with the nasty stuff. Any reason to try the DAP contact cement vs. the Wilson Art? Of course I'll just try one piece at a time... maybe even a "dummy" piece after i spend a while scrapping all the rubbery residue off the wood/laminate. Should I consider sealing the pine with anything first?