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Design Dilemma
nly04

Trouble with banister stain

13 years ago
We sanded the red oak banister in our home to remove the light colored stain and varnish to match our new white oak flooring. The majority of it was done by hand. Now that we have stained the red oak rail and tread, the stain is not penetrating as much as we would like. The person who installed our flooring suggested that we paint the banister black but I did not like his idea. I like the stained look better. But after three coats of stain, staining the banister to match our dark flooring is becoming less desirable. After researching my issue on the Internet, I found one possible solution to our problem - bleaching. If anyone has bleached red oak so that it would stain better or know anything about the process, please let me know.
Featured Answer
  • 13 years ago
    I give the first coat 3 days to be completely set. I know, sounds like a long time, but it has been my best practice. Wetting the wood between coats may help, but I would use a pre-stain (towel applied) that is compatible with the stain you are using (water or oil) and not water. Sand first, then apply a pre-stain and wipe it off per directions (it's only on for a few minutes). You may need to resand with a finer grit - 3O or 4O paper or sanding pad. Your not removing the stain, just prepping the surface to accept your next coat. A darker color is just a darker stain. Perhaps you started with a Mission Oak and want it darker, then buy 8oz of Jacobean or Red Mahogany. If your unsure, apply some with a lint free rag or towel. Using a rag to apply less stain will allow you to slow down the color changes and gage your progress between coats. Once the first coat is set, I stain every 8 or 10 hours (twice a day). I finish with no less than two coats of clear and 3 coats in a high touch area/surface. Gloss is your most durable, but satin is the most popular. Take your time, you will have years to admire your fine work!

    Comments (13)

    • 13 years ago
      last modified: 13 years ago
      I stained my daughter's oak staircase and it came out beautiful. If you can find ZAR brand stain it will penetrate and turn out very well. I used rosewood and it matched her cherry floors nicely. Their stains are worth searching for. After the stain dried completely I used 3 coats of minwax satin wiping polyurethane on the railing which is very easy to apply, but it is not suitable for floors. It still looks perfect 4 years later. You would have very good results with any color ZAR stain you use. I have not had as good results with other brands of stain.
    • PRO
      13 years ago
      I agree with the recommendation for ZAR brand stains. I don't know if they make a water base stain, but I always use the oil stain. With stain, you get the most effect out of the first coat and only a small additional effect from the second coat. Third and further coats aren't going to soak in since the pores are already sealed. I would start with cleaning the wood thoroughly with lacquer thinner which should remove the previous stain. Then, you could try to raise the grain of the wood by getting it wet with water and letting that dry. Then, sand off the raised surface with fine grit sandpaper. My guess is the surface still has some of the previous finish embedded in the pores.

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    • 13 years ago
      I have learned the hard way to use a pre-stain to get the job off to a uniform start. Many people do not sand between stain coats making is difficult for the 2nd or 3rd coat to adhere. This is very important since you are working toward a darker stain. I also use different stain colors to bring out more red or brown. But the real need is sanding well between coats and cleaning with a tack rag. It takes time with finer and finer paper grits but the end finish is a smooth perfect color. I have done as many as 7 coats to get just the right finished color.
    • 13 years ago
      last modified: 13 years ago
      What color stain should I use to bring out more brown? And, will rewetting the wood before staining help? I was told by the Sherwin-Williams rep to wet the wood to raise the grain before staining the wood. He also told me that the wood was not going to darken much after the first coat unless I waited for about two weeks. I stained the banister over a few days.
    • 13 years ago
      last modified: 13 years ago
      If you decide to start over here are the steps I use. Get TSP (tri sodium phosphate) and mix it with water to the consistency of paste, then scrub the railing with it using scotch pads. This will remove the stain and any grime in the wood.Rinsing as you go along. Next I would use windex with ammonia in it, again with a teflon pad, to remove any possible wax in the wood from pledge. Rinse after scrubbing. Let wood dry. The next step is to lightly sand as the grain will be raised when it dries. Then I would re-stain the railing (with ZAR oil base stain) allowing the stain to sit about 15 minutes, then wipe off excess. I am not sure what color you are looking for but usually walnut is a good brown for oak, or even teak. I would sand and wipe, between coats, if more depth is needed, but do not use water between coats as it may prevent the stain from drying Good luck!
    • PRO
      13 years ago
      Arlendau, what is the pre-stain you are referring to? I'm not familiar with the term. Is it a sanding sealer or a wood conditioner? thanks
    • 13 years ago
      Thanks Arlendau. You mentioned that I should use a fine grit paper, 30 or 40. Where I live, these grits woud be coarse. So, should I use a 180 or 220 (fine to finer) grit paper?
    • 13 years ago
      Here is a good blog about staining old wood (but it was Douglas Fir) to a dark stain and bleaching to condition the wood first: It also had a prominant grain.

      http://1912bungalow.com/2004/02/removing-paint-and-refinishing/

      You might try the library for some books, like the Wood Doctor, that has information on using gels and stains to match colors on different types of wood.
    • 13 years ago
      The pre-stain is a wood conditioner. Consistency of water, easy on and easy off. Yes, go with an extra fine sanding paper - 220 is fine. I have the most luck with sanding sponges and pads. They bend around shapes easier and last longer. When a very light dust appears the surface is ready. Clean extra well, using first a slightly damp cloth to remove the majority of dust and then a tack cloth (which is sticky and will pull all the remains of the dust off).
    • 13 years ago
      I have used Minwax finishes over existing finishes. It works well and is easy to work with. It is stain and finish in one so it sits on the surface instead of penetrating. May work for you.
    • 13 years ago
      I visited our local Home Depot, Lowe's and Sherwin Williams today. Neither, retailer carried the product in store. Sherwin Williams will be able to order it but I want get it until after Christmas. I did puchase the pre-stain. I think I am going to purchase a small can of Minwax. If I do not see any good results, I'll order the ZAR tomorrow. I asked the sale person at SW about a Jacobean stain. He said the color was not available in the ZAR brand. I need a stain color suggestion? Our flooring is Kennesaw and the color of it is buckskin. It reminds me of a coffee bean Thanks a bunch!
    • 13 years ago
      Jacobean is available as a Minwax Wood Finish. The can is yellow - the color number on my can is 2750. It creates a fine finish that I have had no problems using and probably more important easy to find. The 8oz can will be enough to test it out. Good luck.
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