Speaking of organic one thing I think I will never be organic with is stone fruit, especially peaches. Looking at some organic orchards, the success is minimal. I refuse to let fungi take most of my crop like some of the organic farmers do. No way, it spreads the disease. If you're not willing to use chemicals, don't grow stone fruits, as otherwise you will harbor pathogenic fungi that will come my way.

Thanks for the stone fruit advice Drew, Ive had limited success going organic on my previous mini-orchard so the one I just planted I plan on using copper fungicide on. I should have used it already as I seem to have lost my first years plantings cherry leaves early to leaf spot. Any other chemical suggestions?

Ive got to say Iam doubtful about the whole improving Indoor Air Quality with houseplants thing. I advise caution on this strategy. Most houseplants like higher humidity than we should be keeping in our homes but more importantly houseplants can greatly contribute to too much humidity.

In the summer, this can make things uncomfortable and for those of us with AC, use more energy costs contributing to dirty things like nuclear, coal and fracking. Wintertime could be even more dangerous. If you've ever noticed condensation on your windows, this should be a wakeup call that the same thing could be going on inside of your walls. Its a sign of too much interior humidty and cold surfaces.

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See the mold and failing paint of the sash? This is visual evidence of the sick building syndrome I have going on in my house thanks to my many houseplants and higher humidity. Cold framing and sheathing behind the drywall could easily be seeing similar results.

The science of improved health with better Indoor Air Quality IAQ is in its infancy and the amount of data and studies are sorely lacking. Iam not aware of any convincing studies or research showing plants to improve overall IAQ but would be very interested in seeing them if anyone knows of any. If anything, houseplants could be more of a problem than a solution for homes with high interior humidity in cold or mixed climates.

Most of the building scientific community are achieving measurable improvements by controlled outdoor air introduction with mechanical ventilation. This basically means using a fan to exhaust indoor air and supply outdoor air.

The best results are achieved with a balanced system like those using HRVs and ERVs. This strategy works best with an airtight building envelope. It gives us the most possible control over our fresh air system, as in where the air is exiting the building and where its being supplied. This keeps humid air flowing through building cavities to a minimum and reduces the chances of indoor air being contaminated by garages, soil gases and combustion flues.

So I would say the best way to avoid sick building syndrome and improve IAQ is to build new homes as airtight as possible or weatherize your existing home, focusing on improving blower door test results and installing mechanical ventilation if you can get it to 5-7 ACH50 or less. Not only can this have the best chance of improving IAQ, it will increase the home's durability, energy efficiency and comfort.

I had a house built and it was very air tight. Extra insulation. 2x6 construction. The air was terrible. We had a major air pollution problem. I was very happy when I sold it.

I mentioned a study and those researchers have done many. I used to have a link to the actual study but lost it. That study confirmed improvement with soil fungi.

On sprays it depends what you are growing. For cherries, yes copper is important. You also need an insecticide, but can go organic there.
For peaches copper is needed with at least 2 sprays before bud break for peach leaf curl. I would also use Monterey Fungi fighter, follow label instructions for times and amount of sprays (use maximum!) and an insecticide. I'm not sure which insecticide is best? Insect pressure here is low. I don't grow apples, so no advice. For plum, same as peaches. In the fall after leaf fall on all trees I do a dormant oil with lime sulfur. Lime sulfur is no longer available, I still have some. Anyway at least do the oil for overwintering insects.

If you cannot get Fungi Fighter the active ingredient is Propiconazole. Look for that. Other fungicides can be used, but this one works wonders against brown rot, a major problem in humid areas.
A good substitutue for Fungi Fighter is Bonide Chemical Fruit Tree and Plant Guard Concentrate. It has a new fungicide that was only allowee for commercial applications untill 2014. It works very well. it also has an insecticide, so is the full package. Not always good if you only need the fungicide. This though is one of the best fungicides out there. I believe it contains two of them and an insecticide.