your comment:
I would prefer one with similar engine and self-propelled controls if possible
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your mower was equipped with a two cycle engine. Two cycle engines had a loyal following but are no longer installed on walk behind mowers due to emission requirements.

I apologize for the poor and confusing wording. I prefer similar controls for the engine and self propelled systems. I like my current configuration of engine brake/cut off and forward speed handles. I borrowed a neighbor's Honda and did not like the way his handles were at all.

I understand a lot of people like the Lawn Boy 2 cycle mowers.
As for a machine to do hills it will stand up better than a 2 cycle.
As for the self propelled units they are ancient compared to the new machines.
As for scalping the staggered wheel was a great idea.
But for safety it would not be allowed to be used today.
SAFETY FIRST.

Buy another Lawn-Boy. The 10732 has identical self propel controls to your old 10323. It's equipped with a powerful 4 stroke Kohler engine and has rear bagging.You could boost your budget up a little and buy a Snapper P2187520. That would be my choice. Click the link to see the Lawn-Boy.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lawn-Boy 10732

"As for scalping the staggered wheel was a great idea.
But for safety it would not be allowed to be used today.
SAFETY FIRST."

I do not understand the safety issue emphasized above. We have used LBs exclusively for about 40 years, all stagger wheeled.

Sounds to me like all OP needs to do is add an inline fuel shutoff valve and use it when engine is stopped. LBs used to come equipped with a fuel shut off.

Walt Conner

I second Walt Conner's advice:

"Sounds to me like all OP needs to do is add an inline fuel shutoff valve and use it when engine is stopped. LBs used to come equipped with a fuel shut off."

I had the same symptoms on my 10247 and adding a inline fuel shutoff is a quick and simple that just about anyone could do to keep these great mowers going.

Even once I got the engine running, it would die quickly as soon as it hit the grass. It's been acting up for the past few years, but always seems to get a good streak going as soon as I deem that it is time for a replacement.

I wish I was near Houston. I'd take it off your hands and trade you a good 4-cycle LB mower with Variable Speed like the 10323. The 10323 has the most powerful and most durable engine Toro/LB ever produced, but the plastic carbs are trouble. You could have it repaired but you need to find somebody in Houston that understands these mowers. It probably needs a carb overhaul with new parts. The float must be sunk or stuck the way it not only leaks down into the engine after running but also runs rich. You can spend a fortune on it at a mower shop. You need to find a retired guy that knows these things. Those new 4-cycle LBs are good mowers and economical.

I have already had the plastic carb replaced once. That was a $250 bill that I do not wish to repeat. I guess I could find some videos and tutorials online to try and fix it myself. I just got tired of putting money into it honestly.

I hear what you're saying. I got out of LB 2-cycle mowers years ago myself. I still miss them but don't miss the aggravation.

That pic brings a mile to my face, they were terrific mowers. I could pull the engine, strip and have it back together in an hour and parts were cheap. I hate Ralph Nader and the EPA (mumble mumble).

Yeah, that's great, but the Toro LB's simply were not made like the 'real' ones. You try to live with a 10201, 10323 or 10550 and you'll get the picture.

I have a pair of 22261, a 10550, a 10525, 10515 and an m series. Havent used one of them since restoring an old 6255 commercial. Been using it for a couple or three years now. Nothing like a lightweight D series that starts every year and no coils or carb issues.

It looks like you were very satisfied with the 10323.

I was satisfied with how well my 10323 worked. Unfortunately, it is no longer working. I've put over $300 into it over the course of the past few years and really do not wish to put any more money into it. What I'd like to find is a mower with similar controls and cutting/mulching abilities. I could find a used 10323 on craigslist easily enough, but then I'd probably face the same issues down the road.

It's very easy and cheap to add an inline fuel shutoff as mentioned above. It may solve your problem.

D400 was a great, light mower. Well that test didn't get my screen name changed.

Walt Conner

The inline fuel shut off won't solve all of the problems. It is also bogging down and stalling when cutting grass.

That would be that darned plastic governor in the carb sticking.

Then a carburetor rebuild and cleaning is called for.

Over tightening of plastic carb mounting bolts can cause the carb to warp and result in butterfly binding,.

Walt Conner

The carb was replaced two or three years ago. It has run fine for the most part since then. Only towards the latter half of the season did the float issues start to occur. Now it just doesn't want to run.

Like I mentioned earlier, I really do not want to mess with it any more. Nor do I wish to sink any additional funds into it. I was just hoping for some advice in regards to finding a new replacement mower that has similar controls to the LB and has the excellent mulching ability that the LB has given me throughout the years.

The deck and blade + mulch fan are unique to the 2-cycles. The 4-cycle 'Insight' series of a few years ago were different but very good. The current LB models still come with Variable Speed but they no longer have hand throttles. The 4-cycle engine will be auto choke start or primer start. If you have a smaller yard or use it as a trim mower only, they have a 20". I probably would get a Toro 22156 if I wanted a commercial-rated premium mower, or a Super Recycler.

The lawn is about 1/4 acre or so and flat. It is mostly St. Augustine with some infestations of Bermuda and some other grass. I mow as high as I can to shade out and kill the Bermuda. That works out to about once to twice per week depending on weather. I don't know when it is wet unless I get caught in the rain. I want a mower that mulches well. I have to desire to bag and compost my clippings.

Mowing high and mulching are not compatible. Mowing high and bagging are. You can't mulch and bag at the same time*. Most of us mulch so we can leave the clippings on the lawn which improves the soil. If you bag, I guess you plan to take the clippings to another site and have a compost pile.

* Honda has a system by which you have a sliding cover to the discharge chute so you can bag some of the clippings while mulching the rest. The problem with high-cut mulching is you lose the vacuum under the deck and the blades of grass are not pulled up into the blade path.

That depends on the mulching system used and what is really most important to the operator. Lawn that is cut somewhat short will appear more evenly cut. The effectiveness of mulching is really determined by how well the mower can do its job. Part is due to design, part is due to giving that deck an opportunity to do its job. Ideal: dry, 1/3 of the grass being clipped off at a time, blade sharp, deck clean etc. In the real world, can you snip 1/3 off the grass at a time and stay sane- probably not. I always felt the Super Recycler did better when the grass was ~2.5"-even 3" tall. The kickers would bury the clippings and the lawn looked great especially with a thick lawn.

I find that cutting high and mulching, or side discharging, is fine down here in Texas with these warm season grasses, especially with St. Augustine, which is primarily what the OP is mostly dealing with down there in Houston. In my opinion the most important part of maintaining St. Augustine is to cut it high and often...twice a week is the norm for me, with Bermuda I can go with once a week. I have moved around most of my life and the rules seem to change with location/climate. What worked for me in Kentucky, or Colorado doesn't necessarily work for me in Texas.

I stopped by an outdoor power equipment dealer today to see their selection. I was curious to see what they offered in comparison to the big box store selection. They only had a few models out. They had a Honda HRR (I forget the specific model) for $425, a Toro Recycler for $325 and a Super Recycler for $519. The differences between the first two and the Super Recycler

So, I think it might be down to a few models:

Lawnboy 10732 - $280 Familiar controls and brand. Probably same mulching ability. Questionable quality.

Husqvarna HU700H - $379 Honda engine, brand seems to get some good reviews.

Honda HRR216 - $399 Honda everything, good reputation, should mulch as well as my LB did.

Toro 20381 - $519 Super Recycler, heavier build, better quality, but also most expensive. Probably overkill.

I'm leaning towards the Honda right now from a price and reliability standpoint. I do recognize the better quality of the Super Recycler, but at $519, it seems like a bit of a stretch for my little lawn.

If you have an Ariens dealer close, you might want to add the Ariens Razor as another option. There are various models within your price range. Here is a link to our dealer locator and a link to our Ariens website with more information on that model.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks.

I ended up with a like-new Toro Super Recycler from craigslist. I made a new post talking about it. I should have put something here too.

I did find that post after commenting here.

I just want people to know that we are here for support if anyone has questions about Ariens products. I'm new to this forum, but it seems like a good fit for our Ariens residential and chore line of products.

Congratulations on your new mower.