Here is a picture of the whole plant

I'm guessing it is over-watered. They should be able to get much bigger than that without drooping. The condition of the Spathiphyllum in the background also gives that impression. Is there a drainage hole in Jade's pot?

Plants that can survive under my care are generally fairly hardy! It seems counter intuitive to me, to stop watering it, but I believe you. There is a drainage hole in the Jade's pot. I also put some large (fist size) rocks in the bottom of the pot with the hopes of more drainage.

How do I know when to water it again?

As far as the Spathiphyllum (peace lily) it seems as though an entire section has died, but the rest is doing fine. I was going to re-pot it and break off the dying part.

My plants truly appreciate your input!

Or improperly watered. I've seen more jade plants suffer from too little water than too much.

Adding rocks to the bottom does not improve drainage, but only serves to take up space....the rocks reduce the growing area. Your rapid drainage should come from the potting medium itself.

Jades and other succulents (all plants, really) do best if watered infrequently but thoroughly. The soil volume should be allowed to dry out, but needs to be completely resaturated on watering day.

Little sips encourage permanent dry pockets to form, where roots will die. A coarse textured potting medium ensures that drenching our succulents never causes the problems associated with 'overwatering'.

Test for moisture levels by using your fingers to dig down and feel. You can also use a dry, wooden dowel to insert to the bottom to feel for moisture. With experience, you will be able to judge the moisture content of a container by its weight.

The roots of jades are shallow. Best scenario is to plant them in a broad, shallow container, then insert the whole pot into a larger, deeper pot for stability.

You are the only person who can be the judge of whether your plant has been under or over watered. You may have to unpot to check the condition. I'd evaluate your potting medium, too. I can't tell much from your image.

That jade tree is wishing for more light. It is noticeable from the elongated leaf shape. Also the fact that you can grow a peace lily in the same window is testament to the light levels. Jade trees also tend to lean in lower light levels.

The plant is slow-growing, so it would take a while to show a response to a change in light levels. How long has it been in that window? Does it get any direct sun?

As far as fixing it, I dont think you can fix the general lean of the plant. Though a hard prune, combined with higher light levels, would probably solve the problem.

You said you repotted it. I cant tell for sure from a picture, but that potting mix looks heavy, especially for a succulent. At a minimum, you should use a mix made for succulents. But a homemade mix can be even better.

I believe Lauraeli is correct saying it won't straighten up - at least not on it's own. You could put a sturdy stick & tie stems to it (loose first not to break, and tightening the 'loop' slowly...), or wire them as bonsai is wired. I never wired so anyone with that experience would have to help.
You could also eventually divide & replant stems to be more upright, or prune/chop - depends on what you prefer.
Recently, I was given similar jade (see photo-excuse the quality!), that was left on the balcony for a very long time, even in pretty low temps. Soil is not good, but plant wasn't watered for few months so there isn't rot present. Many leaves had frost damage & already fell off, but new ones are already starting to grow.
Instead of fighting that shape, I am thinking about leaving the main stem, just prune branches. I know it could be wired, but I never tried that, so I am not sure.

Rhizo 1 gave you lots of good tips. Soil, watering, light - important (lots of experience there...)

Rina

All or nothing ?
If it's green prune it off and cut back hard as well no amount of sunlight is going to solve the etiolating problem even though it is severely lacking sufficient lighting

Improperly watered can mean a few things :( By looking at the foliage in your pic & in comparison: To me it means your soil hold to much moisture for to long. A better draining soil wont solve any etiolating problem

When you have pruned and repotted it into a soil that can be watered as suggested ( A good sharp draining soil ) you wont need to use a stick to check it for dryness
Yet before you water it in it's newly repotted soil you will only need to be aware of it's growing habits before expecting two or more gallons of water to pass though any pot in short time

Note the pic I left for an example some amount of wrinkled foliage are seen I use an indication that it does need water.

Yes like all others I am the judge of my own but I cant and wont use a gallon of water to water it as suggested by other jade growing enthusiast not to mean I wont water it

RINA:
Wiring idea less informative but less $$ than the how to wire Bonsai lesson(s) are also seen on U-Tube

The jade has been in this window for about 1 year - when we moved into this house. It definitely had more sunlight in its last location. So - I will change the soil and look for a new place in the house for it to live. I do have a west facing window that might work. I'm not sure about pruning - I think I will wait on that.

Thanks to everyone for your input and advice!

Good luck and happy growing :-)

n_n

I just realized that you gave me advise with a photo how it could be wired (on another thread, on Dec. 26th). Belated Thank you.
Rina

Your plant doesn't appear to be in danger of dying. and it is droopy as a result of low light conditions. I wouldn't cut it back or repot until June, when the new growth will be tight (short internodes). After that, get in the habit of pruning off all the lanky growth in late May & repotting around Father's day. This will ensure that you retain ONLY the tightest growth. Also, give your plant as much sun as you can give it while it's growing enthusiastically.

Jades don't 'like' to go dry, but they tolerate being dry better than they tolerate wet feet. W/o a soil that allows you to water properly, you're forced to choose between the two evils - too wet or too dry. Using a soil that nearly eliminates the possibility of overwatering solves that issue AND makes fertilizing very easy. If you don't understand some of what I said - just ask and I'll offer more guidance.

Al