Carb probably plugged up due to "mystery fuel" we now have to buy. Remove plug and pull many times to get gas circulating. Add gas additive like SeaFoam to tank with new gas, Try to start, if it runs, let it run, and run, hopefully sludge and varnish in carb will clear up.

It may require a carb tear down and cleaning, you or take to someone.

I add a gas stabilizer like Stabil to every gas can prior to filling at the pump. This assures me that whatever small engine it ends up in is protected from "mystery" fuel. Do that in the future. If you know that an engine won't be run for an extended period, run all the gas out of it, then pull plug and put a few drops of oil in and crank over for lubrication.

Good luck,

Ev

Hi Ev,

Thanks for the info. By "plug" i assume you're referring to the carb fuel line and not the spark plug?

Thanks,

Spark plug, turns over much easier for extended cranking and extended cranking "might" get gas moving again. Prior to putting plug back, brief shot of "carb and choke cleaner" or equivalent in the spark plug hole-do not use starting fluid.

One year sitting, you're probably looking at taking it somewhere to have the carb torn down and cleaned.

Good luck,

Ev

Actually, a simple tear down shouldn't be that difficult. That Wen looks like a Honda clone engine. I have the Honda. The carb is right behind that retangular black air cleaner box. The worst part may be removing the back of the air cleaner box but if you have a drill with a nut driver or whatever, it is easy to remove all the bolts. Perhaps take a picture after it is off to get things back together right. I suspect everything else may just slide off.

You may not need to do a total replacement of gaskets etc. Just get the bowl off, shake carb and bowl around in some gas; remove the main jet and blow air thru anything that looks like a hole. Look for crud around the housing of that jet and clear out any hole that appears to be there with a wire. Entry to the main jet often messes things up.

The only snag with this approach is that you have to put it back together to see if it works and you may just need to take it apart again; but you will be an expert then. You can probably buy a new carb for $60 and put it on now that you are an expert ;-)

Hopefully, you've already checked for spark at the plug?

I would suggest to at least pull the bowl if the carb is related to the attached to see if the float drops and fuel flows. OR! Open the drain valve to see if fuel flows. Pulling the bowl possibly will show if the fuel has turned bad or is turning bad

I am use to seeing varnish in bad gas before the corn gas. Please help explain what the new corn gas will look like when it's bad. As mention, treating âÂÂallâ my equipment gas with Stabil has eliminated any draining or bad gas at last a yr +.

If you pull the bowl and see anything interesting, Please attach a picture. Please attach a link âÂÂanyoneâ to a diagram that shows what fuel passages should be open in the carb. Before Pics or stages are good refs.

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The carb definitely needed cleaning, and I was able to get it working again after that.

However, the machine still won't start "cold". I have to use starter spray to get it started, then it will run continuously.

"However, the machine still won't start "cold". I have to use starter spray to get it started, then it will run continuously."

Real common problem with modern carbs. I have made various provisions for living with it. The simplest is where the filter cover is steel,remove cover before doing this. Drill airasol can straw size hole in cover. When starting cold,insert straw to give a shot of starting fluid. After engine starts,place a piece of refrigerator maginet over hole to prevent dirt entering carb.