Your duplicate cross-post is getting answered in the "Building a Home" forum.

Some friendly advice: For your future info, posting the same thing in more than forum is inefficient, confusing for responders, and doesn't lead to better answers. The forum etiquette is to post in one place and then reference it in another forum in a day or two if your first post isn't getting answered.

I'm sorry.... I've spent a lot of time in the bathrooms forum, but wasn't sure which way made more sense.

Your suggestion is appreciated...would have made a lot of sense.

Thanks!

I wouldn't worry about cross-posting. Different forums have different people frequenting them so elicit different answers. And I've seen a lot of people cross post. If you think of it, mentioning that you are cross posting is probably good. I'm glad you posted here as we may end up with a pocket door so I'm going to go read the answers to your other post now.

I'd prefer to go with a known entity. Print out the specs for each, and make a choice.

For those who say don't worry about cross-posting, let me point out that there are people here who expend a lot of time and thought responding to posts; when they then see the same post in another forum and it has already been responded to adequately, they find it frustrating to have wasted their time. Second, when responses are in one place, they tend to be more comprehensively addressed. Third, when people are looking for answers to questions before posting, it helps them to find responses to a particular query in one thread.

So, at the risk of sounding like a self-appointed member of the forum police, I repeat: it does matter, at least to some of us.

Kudzu, and to some of us, cross posting turns out to be helpful as they might not have seen a post in a different forum. And more thorough responses from more people is useful for all concerned. And it ups the odds someone will find information.

So, there are definitely contrary points of view to yours and scolding people because they haven't adhered to your personal views on forum etiquette just doesn't come across as kind or helpful, nor does it improve the forums as a whole, IMO.

All it takes is a simple "cross posted from ......",it's not really too much to ask. I agree completely with kudzu9.

To wrap this up on the Bathrooms forum, yes, there are benefits to cross posting - especially if the original post isn't getting traffic.

But I will say that what would have been wise would be to note the thread, and ask that any further comments go to the original thread.

Good leaning experience - now all I need to do is figure out how hard to fight my contractor who wants to put in (seemingly) POS pocket door frames in my new (and way too expensive) Master Bath.

Here is a link that might be useful: Original post in BUILD forum.

I have Hafele in my bathroom and have been happy. I just have the tracts. I did see online last year on a general contracting site that several people agreed if they wanted the tract to last for the long haul, they would use Hafele, or another brand that I can't remember. Johnson was not listed in their post for the most durable. Though I have heard many are happy with Johnson. There are several grade levels with Johnson and I would get the higher end model.

Johnson.

End of story.

Available just about everywhere, can't say that for Hafele.

Made in USA

Reasonably priced.

Tried and true performance for going on four decades.

Thanks Xedos & Enduring!

Interestingly, the contractor has confirmed the ones he (without telling me) ordered - they're the Johnson 2700 units, which are the ones down at the bottom of the web page. So either just as good, but lower profit, or not as good.

Should I fight back? I had always read that the 1500 series was the minimum level. GC doesn't like the metal-wrapped studs for some reason.... And I'm petrified that we'll have to pull out the wall again when the door is loud and hard to move.

Here is a link that might be useful: Johnson Pocket Door Frame Kit Models

crl-
I wasn't scolding. I was laying out reasons why it generally works better for people to not cross-post, or at least not cross-post without referencing. I've cross-posted myself when I didn't get an answer in a couple of days, but I made sure people knew.

Our carpenter told us to make sure we use wood studs not metal as metal will certainly rattle. We are installing out kits this weekend..... I believe they are made by BWI (?) and came from a commercial grade supply house.

Tip: I saw a video on youtube where they painted the headers flat black so you dont see the wood and silver tracks. I have included the link below....

Here is a link that might be useful: Pocket door install w painting

We have the metal split stud kit and not noise from our door.

I thought the op mentioned it was a cross post in the first post.

sorry i dropped this - finally got back on after the Houzz swap. Thanks anlawin for the comment about using wood studs, although some, like ltltrot, are OK with the metal. I suspect what it comes down to is that if you do it right, you can make any of the frames work - the issue is taking the time to do it right. The video link was also very helpful.

The GC and I ended up with a compromise, of sorts. He got to put up his Johnson 2700 frames - DH thought they looked more solid than the 1500 frames. The compromise was that I bought Hafele top rails with the slow-close feature. A little pricy, but a LOT less than the complete Hafele frame & rail set. Now, we'll have to see how they work...

Is this going in a bathroom? We are remodeling our bathroom and the day my husband has been waiting for happened--they removed the pocket door!! Ours was 35 years old, wood frame, had to tear the wall apart to remove. In fact my husband said he would not have remodeled the bathroom, just remove the pocket door!

We have one in a closet that works well, this BR one has been nothing but trouble. Imagine being trapped in a bathroom when the sliding door fails? All the contractors who came out to bid the job said pocket doors fail when to bathroom because of the humidity/ contraction/expansion. Good luck.

They fail in bathrooms (or anywhere else) due to inept installation or cheap hardware. I lived in a house that was 55 years old when we sold it and the original pocket door was still working fine. It was opened and closed at least once a day.

1500 series is the entry level , and is just fine for most applications.

2000 series , of which the 2700 falls in, is a heavier duty model that would be used for really heavy doors like in a commercial setting. No reason you can't use it in a residence though.

Either is fine for most bath doors in a home.

AHMIowa_NJ !! You are currently my favorite human! We just installed our pocket door kits and the doors are coming tomorrow...... We had no idea that soft close exists for PD's! Researching it today and will be ordering the retrofit kits :)

Remember you do not want to tile the back side of a pocket door. The door's design is not that great. The frame almost always needs improving but the money is in the hardware and rollers.

I like double wheel systems and locally the market is dominated by KrisTrack.

Johnson! We picked the heavy duty version for our heavy solid doors.

Bought another brand for another door in the project - never again - it's worth ordering and shipping from Johnson if you can't get them locally. I'm tempted to pull out the non-Johnson ones we have and replace them! (DH vetoed that idea - even though he likes the Johnson frames much better.)

Thanks for the thoughts - I've heard too many stories like shappy2 reports, where pocket doors were noisy and problematic - but also that it's the quality of the frame, rails, and installation that make all the difference, so I'm trying to be thorough - but yet not go broke.
To clarify - the Johnson frame sets that are vertical metal-wrapped studs, are either the 1500, 2000, or 2500 series units. I had heard that the 1500 was the minimum.
The frame the GC has wanted to use is the 2700 (see http://www.johnsonhardware.com/2700.htm), which is an entirely different type of frame that looks a bit like an orange crate, with horizontal wood pieces. It is NOT part of the 2000 series. In some ways, I suppose it helps avoid cave-in, but even when I called Johnson to understand why I'd want one over the other, their tech support folks said it's an older style frame that "we don't like to talk about". That gives confidence... either not enough profit, or really not very good. But which?

As I mentioned, we compromised, and so far have the 2700 frame in place, but getting a Hafele rail with slow-close that I found at a relatively reasonable price. Now, we get to see if it all works.

Good luck to you, too, anlawin! I'll report when and if we get everything together!

This is the frame they removed I loved the space saving aspect of the pocket door but when it failed one was literally trapped in an upstairs bathroom very claustrophobic !!

shappy-
I suspect the failure was from an inferior track, track design, or wheels failing. It would be interesting to actually see a photo of the mechanism. Some models simply have roller wheels sitting on top of a groove in the track, and they can jump it, particularly when the gauge of the track is flimsy or one has inadequate fasteners holding it in. And then there are installers who don't install or adjust it properly. The Johnson I just installed has a track that encloses the wheels so they can't jump off, and you could do pullups on the track and still not have it flex.

Ive installed a few Johnson 2700. Not horrible, they just need a little customization and a careful install approach. I find that these Johnson pockets have a lot to be desired from the QC of the MFG. and often need site repairs right out of the box...

This is reflected in the purchase price.

Plum, Square & In plane are 3 install key points.

It is not to hard to build a custom upgrade from a Johnson pocket door with solid 3/4' ply replacing the 1x pine slats.

Again Plum, Square, In plane......

Tundra - thanks for the good points - I suspect with a good rail, any "frame" can be made to work if it's installed carefully. I really like the idea of using different slats. But it also seems like if you have to rebuild the frames, why bother buying anything beyond the rail/hangers? Strange stuff... We'll see how it goes. Thanks!