hi strpedbass. my concern would be shear weight. with bottom being 3 sections and not a solid piece. also did you screw the top of the cabinet from the inside or from the top

gdc123,

The cabinet feels quite secure.

The top of the cabinet was screwed from the inside.

The bottom of the cabinet was also screwed from the inside.

We used one screw at the top, two at the bottom.

Below is another photo.

{{gwi:2137798}}

the 3 screws will hold the cabinet up. but if you put a few cans in it...all bets are off. cut 2x6s in a wedge a shape to match the profile of the wall and that leaves you a vertical edge to mount the cabinet to later. next..drill and countersink holes in the 2x6 edges to accommodate stud bolts and mount them vertically on the studs. also, the side panel i think, would look better if you cut a single, stained to match, thin single section of ply wood. mount it to the side of the cabinet and cut it to the profile of the wall. problem solved, next! :-)

jeff-1010,

The 3 screws have gone into studs. They have therefore secured the cabinet quite well.

You then mention the following:

"cut 2x6s in a wedge a shape to match the profile of the wall and that leaves you a vertical edge to mount the cabinet to later. next..drill and countersink holes in the 2x6 edges to accommodate stud bolts and mount them vertically on the studs. also, the side panel i think, would look better if you cut a single, stained to match, thin single section of ply wood. mount it to the side of the cabinet and cut it to the profile of the wall."

Unfortunately, I could not understand what you meant because your language was too technical for me.

I wish you had an easier way to explain it to me or you had a link with a photo that could show me what you're trying to say.

In any case, thanks for trying to help me.

let's try this again. what i'm saying is take down your cabinet and the 2x4 s behind it. find two 2x6s and cut them the same length as the cabinet is tall. cut the lumber,across the face to form a wedge that follows the angle of the wall ,the other edge gives you a vertical surface to mount the cabinet to. go to the hardware store with one piece of the cut 2x6 and ask the guy for screw bolts and washers long enough to go out the back by 2 1/2 to 3 inches. a drill bit long enough to go through the width of the 2x6. you will need at least 2 bolts per side, 3 would be better. after you drill the holes in the 2x6s ,you will need to counter sink them . counter sinking is simply removing enough wood around the head so the bolt head is flush with the surface of the wood. that way the heads don't push into the cabinet back. once you have the 2x6s mounted to the studs , screw the cabinet in place. let me know how it's going. p.s. the dry wall screws you are using tend to snap off at the head under stress.

Cabinet backs are not load bearing members. You appear to have only a single screw through the hanging rail. That is insuffcient.

A custom built unit that follows the slope of the wall would be your best choice here.

If I were hanging that cabinet, I would make a wedge shaped piece as long as the cabinet is wide. Then screw the wedge into the wall at the correct height so the cabinet would hang with the French cleat in the link I provided(or one similar).

Half the cleat on the cabinet, the other half on the wedge, with screws long enough to screw into the wall studs by at least an inch.

On the bottom, I would fabricate another wedge and two filler pieces, one for each side, out of hardwood(like oak or maple).

The wedge is screwed to the wall as is the top wedge, and the fillers screwed to that wedge.

2" by 4" construction lumber does not have sufficient holding power as you have done.

Here is a link that might be useful: French cleat