They have numerous branches now,right?The Peaches are usually grown in an open vase shape,while the Pears to a central or modified central leader.I'll pick about three to four limbs and cut off the rest when planting.The Pear's branches will tend to grow straight up,so I use spreader sticks to push them more towards horizontal or stake them with string to the ground. Brady

No existing branches, no. They were all topped at 18"-24", below any existing branches. Only new green growth coming off the trunk right now. My working assumption is that I should leave them for now (since the trees need all the nutrients they can get) and take off the extraneous/crossed/etc branches at some point in the future - I'm just not sure when.

Then yes,that's what I'd do too.It's really not a big deal to let them grow for a year or more.When choosing the permanent branches,I'd do it,late Winter/early Spring. Brady

It helps if you post photos of your trees, Brittany. Summer pruning by June will slow down vigor, so you're not back to square one next spring with rapid summer growth. If your intent is to keep your trees at a pickable height, you should do you pruning by June. This can be tricky with late-producing trees (like pears), so for pears, prune after you've picked your fruit as Brady mentions, to a central/modified leader and you can use sticks to spread branches if they are too close together. I would let them grow to see what branches form, then prune out overlapping/duplicate branches to form a nice, balanced open canopy for your stone fruit, and as open as you can for your pears. You need to let everything grow out to help provide enough leaf canopy to support fruit either next season or the season after.

Patty. S.