Aluminum 1139: I separated aluminum because it isn't a resource, it's a toxin. And your levels are phenomenally high.

Fortunately, aluminum is bound at pH levels above 5.0 and doesn't become freely available until the pH falls under 4.5. In your case, never let your pH fall under 5.5 as we don't want pockets of soil at lower pH that are starting to release aluminum.

So here, some occasional attention to soil tests and calcitic lime if required is a really, really good idea.

Awesome! Thank you so much!

Now a few questions, if I may:

1) For the boron treatment: can I use oceangro as the carrier for that as well? Is the 7.5 tablespoons per bag of carrier or total for the 10,000 SF?

2) Can I swap the mag-I-cal treatment and the starter fertilizer treatment? I ask because I plan on putting down starter with Siduron this weekend as a pre-M.

3) How does a renovation work with this? I plan on nuking everything mid-Julyish and seeding mid to late August. I imagine I can just move the 9/1 starter fertilizer app up to the renovation date and then proceed with the plan as defined?

4) Could softened water have an effect on the jar test? Maybe I should try again with hard water from the hose bib.

1) Sure! Any chemically non-reactive organic is fine, and Oceangro fits that bill. I essentially consider Oceangro and Milorganite to be identical.

2) No problem!

3) I didn't know that. Let me revise the schedule below. Since the old lawn is disappearing, I'm not sparing it over the summer. This is likely to cause some stressed grass.

4) It shouldn't, but let's go with hard water from the hose bib next time just to be sure!

Revised Renovation Recommendations:

Sometime now to May 1: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal at 4 pounds per thousand square feet.

May 15: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

June 1: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

June 15: Apply 3 tablespoons 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet.

July 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

July 15: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal at 2 pounds per thousand square feet.

August 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

August 15 Onward: Renovate! You can apply Oceangro any time during this process to gently feed the reno and provide a bit of extra phosphorus and iron.

October 1: Apply 1.5 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

October 15: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal at 2 pounds per thousand square feet.

November 1: Apply 1.5 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

I've actually moved the starter applications up before the renovation date. If you'd rather shift the August 1st app to renovation day, go ahead. It won't matter to the seed, and doing it early will reduce the number of tasks you have to do the day the reno goes. The nitrogen is long gone before the grass can use it, the phosphorus binds and moves into the soil profile very slowly. That two weeks either way simply doesn't make much difference to the lawn.

I've also split amounts of calcium and potassium. Calcium is also very slow to move through the soil so I'd like to have it down early. Potassium moves much faster, and it's gentle, so it's fine on new lawn. The October app of calcium is low enough not to set off chlorosis and then has months to move in over spring and fall.

I didn't include a feeding schedule for the new reno. Organics work best if applied with seed (they won't be available for about three weeks). Synthetics go a month after seeding, after which the roots are mature enough to use some of what you apply. Personally, I'd go with the organics.

Since you're renovating, there are no limits on what and when you drop organically before the renovation.

Perfect, thank you!

I can source mag-I-cal easily, so no problems there. Potassium sulfate = Sulfate Of Potash? If so, no problems there either.

Yep, potassium sulfate's superhero alias is sulfate of potash.

Also, forgot to mention, after the reno I do plan to stay organic, or as close to it as I can.

Will be picking up the oceangro tomorrow. Can't beat the $7.99 price for the month of April.

Post reno, the only synthetic that will need to go is a winterizer application when top growth stops but the lawn is still green. That should be around Thanksgiving, give or take some, in Zone 6b, and uses a high nitrogen, low or zero everything else fertilizer at bag rate.

Wellp, apparently my source for potassium sulfate is bunk. The places I called tried to sell me muriate of potash instead, and from what I understand that is a big "no-no". One of the places said that 'Jonathan Green has a product labeled "Crabgrass and Weed Preventer" for use on lawns and landscape areas, which is 7% Sulfate of potash (0-0-7)'. From what I found on their website that also has dimension in it, and I don't want that either.

So, are there any alternatives?

In other news, I picked up 600 lbs of Oceangro this morning. :)

That. Is a lot. Of poo. :-) I wish they'd expand their production and start selling it in surrounding states. It'd be good to give Milorganite some competition.

Many garden shops and landscape places will order potassium sulfate for you. Also, the stuff is on eBay.

If the price is really outrageous, and given the fact that you're doing a reno, I could revise the schedule to account for using potassium chloride (muriate of potash). It's harsh, but we're not that concerned about sparing the grass this year and I'll arrange the schedule to have the K apps done long before the reno.

I can't say I'm a hundred percent thrilled by the idea, but I can work with it. The chloride binds with calcium, mostly, and you can't afford to lose terribly much. I'd adjust the lime levels upward somewhat to account for that.

Thanks! I'll keep on looking for the potassium sulfate. I have a few more emails out and I'll try my local JDL also.

All of the dates have been added to the calendar. Looking forward to getting started!