I would plant them now and keep them well watered. They will do a lot better planted than in the pots they came with since they will really dry out fast.

Hold off on any spraying until something crops up that looks like it might need attention. Then come back here with photos and you'll get some specific recommendations. Other than this, dormant spraying in late winter can be a preventative (or help in discouraging) certain fungal issues and overwintering insect eggs/larvae.

Thanks for the advice insteng and gardengal

You're going to need copper for leaf curl, also something for brown rot, Monterey Fungi Fighter is the best. Follow spray schedules, You will also need something for insects. I think you should spray for all three, rot, insects, and leaf curl (dormant sprays). Once it happens it can spell disaster like establishing a colony of insects that infect your trees every year. Get ahead of it now.

As long as you don't spray while flowering bees will be fine. One of my peach trees is NOT self fertile, I need bees to have fruit. I can't think of a group more concerned about bees that those that grow fruit trees as many plums, apples etc need bees. Often we are bee keepers. Having peach trees means more bees in your yard, not less. If you follow label instructions on products you will not hurt the bees. if a product is harmful it will state it, and how to use it not to impact bees. Organic methods can be used too, well for insects, not for brown rot. If you want to be organic, don't grow peach trees or move to CA. The air is dry enough where brown rot is not a problem there.

Unless it is some sort systemic insecticide, you can't really spray to 'prevent' insects. Topical, non-systemic insect sprays are almost always only effective when the insects are present. They either need to eat the treated (sprayed) foliage or the insecticide itself must come into contact with them.

It's a bit late now since you have already purchased the trees but there are leaf curl and brown rot resistant varieties of peach on the market. Unfortunately, insect resistance is not something that is often bred into plants available for home gardens. That's where genetic engineering comes into play and that is focused on big agriculture, not hobby gardeners. Nor do most necessarily favor it anyway.

Use a sticker with the insecticide, with all sprays except oil sprays. That way you have protection for weeks. As explained by many pesticide companies.
No home gardener I know doesn't spay insecticide on peaches. Well some use surround (kaolin clay), that is an organic option, not a bad way to go! Look into it!
As far as when contact your local extension office. Some even give out alerts when to spray. Timing is important. Plum Curculio can have multiple generations all summer, good luck! They love peaches BTW!
First spray should be just after petal fall, and if you use a sticker, you can apply again in 30 days. A 3rd spray in another 30 days should do it. If you opt to use clay start at petal fall, and when it wears out spray again.
Again check with your local extension and they can tell you exactly when to spray, and what pests you face in your area. You may not have a PC problem there? Also what products you can use. Oriental fruit moth is another problem pest. Still check with extension!

Start by finding closest office and give them a call
http://www.ext.vt.edu/

Here is what Virgina Tech has to say about growing peaches

There are many insects and diseases of peaches. Grow

-ing quality peaches in Virginia without pesticides is

very difficult and should not be attempted unless one is

willing to accept relatively low yields and fruits that are damaged by insects and diseases.
https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-019/422-019_pdf.pdf

Some info on Plum Curculio

http://nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets/treefruit/pests/pc/pc.asp

"Use a sticker with the insecticide, with all sprays except oil sprays.
That way you have protection for weeks. As explained by many pesticide
companies."

Not necessarily. Not all adjuvants ("stickers") are equally effective. And even an adjuvant will not be particularly helpful if the insecticide isn't very rainfast to begin with, like acephate. And how long the adjuvant will be helpful depends on the amount of rainfall received. A hard heavy rain after spraying pretty much wipes out any effect of the insecticide. 'Weeks' is probably stretching it to the extreme if you have any sort of reasonable rainfall. 'Days' is much more likely to be the case.

As a licensed pesticide consultant, the point I am trying to make is that you cannot randomly spray an insecticide in hopes of preventing insect damage at some point in the future. You need to target the specific pest and know whether a contact insecticide is most appropriate (in which case, there is no issue of 'prevention' at all) or if it is something that needs to be consumed by the pest in question or consumes them, in which case proper timing and an understanding of the insect's life cycle come into play.

Contacting your local cooperative extension office is a good idea. They will have first hand knowledge of what insect pests you may expect to deal with and recommend the best ways to approach their control.

Thanks so much for all the great information. I had planned on getting a couple more trees, but I will wait for fall to purchase those. For those I plant now I'll see what happens during the season and start into a spraying schedule after the trees go dormant in fall/winter. I'll contact the VT extension office to get advice on what to spray for the first year. Glad to know, if used properly, the spray won't adversely affect the bees.

Good luck! I have 2 peach trees and 2 nectarine, and many other fruit trees. It's tough to grow these, but I love a challange.

And then when you have nice ripe peaches on your trees the squirrels and raccoons take them. It's a battle since so many living things like peaches. Watch them closely.

Just out of curiosity, do small mammals like other fruits any less (pears, apples?). For my next trees I may want to consider a tree that might actually give me some fruit :)

Watch out for borers even this year. You might want to spray for those if they are as common in your area as they are here. They can really hurt a tree if you don't notice the problem early enough. I'm still very new to growing fruit trees, and I've already run into them.

Thanks Meredith. Any idea if I can spray for vine borers during the growing season (i.e. when the tree is not dormant).

It's the borers at the base that can be so bad. You do spray for them when trees are actively growing, yep. Especially late summer here.

Borers

I just make sure to use insecticide on the base of the trees in July and August, especially, but I haven't had to time it while fruit is on the tree yet. They hit my almond tree is what let me know they are a problem here.